Well, let me get started with the details. This info should work for all Lambda's, AFAIK
. As I said the system comes from advancedkeys.com. The proximity key uses the same radio frequency ID (RFID) system used by OEM manufacturers or for garage access cards, corporate ID cards etc. It's also the same idea as the Passkey III system used in the Enclave. The "smartkey" in this case is a small, black fob about 2/3 the size of a credit card and about 3 times as thick. It has a battery to transmit the RFID (as opposed to a passive RFID system that uses a magnetic field to induce a current in the card for power.) On it are 3 buttons, one to unlock (or tailgate if held down), one to lock, and one to remote start. Of course, you don't need the buttons, as the doors will unlock when you get close to the vehicle and lock as you walk away. I found I still use the remote start (and tailgate), so it's nice to have. On the website, they only list the old model, called the AK-103B, which has no buttons on the smartkey. The new model, AK-104 has the buttons and should be requested when ordering.
The product is a series of modules and harnesses. There is a smartkey module which receives the RFID and unlocks the door, starts the car, and contains an alarm (which you don't have to use - more details to follow on this). There is a push-start module which connects to the push-start button and also to the smartkey module. You don't need to add the push start. You can also use a knob start, which contains a key-shaft and fits into the ignition cylinder. You would turn this as you would a key to start the car. I figured if I was going to all this trouble, I would go all the way with the push start. If you get the push start, make sure to request that the illuminated text be green (as opposed to orange) as it can not be changed once you receive it (learned this the hard way). I found it matched the dash lighting pretty well.
Besides this system, you need another module (you can find at Amazon) to bypass the Passkey III (PK3) system. The PK3 uses an RFID chip in the factory key (you can see it designated as a + on the key). There is an electromagnetic coil (copper) wrapped around the ignition barrel which creates a current in the RFID chip and allows it to transmit a vehicle specific code needed to start the car. Without the chip, the car won't start even with the correct key. The OEM remote start can get around this, but the aftermarket system needs a specific bypass. Fortunately, there are a lot of companies that have figured all this out. I used the DLPK (stands for door-lock, Passkey or something) module from Xpresskit. This turned out to be the trickiest part. I'll write a subsequent message with the details on the bypass. Note that the PK3 is still in place and the car cannot be started without either a factory key or the smartkey (even with the key shaft in the ignition, see below).
In addition, if you get the push button start, you need a small bracket and plunger switch which is used to detect when the brake pedal is being pressed. The car won't start (or turn off) unless the brake pedal is pressed. In many newer cars, including ours, when the key is off (or there is no accessory power), pressing the brake does not turn on the brake lights. There is a brake switch which the car uses to detect the pedal being depressed, but that is powered by accessory power and not battery power, so it is no good to tap into this. Fortunately, there is a solution. People who tow their car behind an RV (dingy towing) often need to use a supplemental braking system (a system which physically depresses their car's brake pedal when they press the brake on the RV) and need a switch to make sure the brake pedal in the car isn't incorrectly depressed while towing (which would wear down the brakes pretty fast, I suppose). A company called Roadmaster makes a stop-light brake switch for this purpose which also works perfectly for detecting the brake pedal even when the car is off. It is very easy to install and does not interfere with brake pedal movement. The model number is 751221.
You will also need to get your factory key duplicated. You don't need, or want, to get this done at the dealer, as you don't need the PK3 chip. You just need the shaft part of the key. I found that I couldn't get this done at Home Depot, but I drove by a small locksmith and he cut the key for $2.50. You will need to break off the handle part of the key as you only need the shaft part. If you use the knob start, this shaft is actually glued to the knob and used to start the car. If you use the push start, you leave the key shaft in the ignition at all times in the ACC position (you interrupt the ACC wire from the ignition cylinder so you don't drain the battery - more on this when I give installation details). You then cover the ignition cylinder with a patch so it looks like there is no place to insert a key. It turns out that the best cover I could find was an anti-skid furniture pad from Home Depot (Shepard 1-1/2 in Anti-skid pads, model #9970). They have a texture to them that matches the plastic of the steering column very well. All in all, it is a very clean, OEM look.
So, in summary, the items you need to install this are:
1. The Smartkey+Push start (or knob start) system model AK-104 from advancedkey.com
2. Immobilizer bypass module Xpresskit DLKP (or similar) from Amazon, Best Buy, etc. (I also needed the Xpresskit RFLCHGM RF loop bypass, but you may not.)
3. Roadmaster 751221 stop light brake switch
4. Shepard 1-1/2 in anti-skid pads from Home depot (#9970)
5. If you do this yourself, all sorts of wiring connectors, soldering iron, etc.
6. If you install the push start, you need to make a hole somewhere for it. I chose the center console to the right of gear selector, centered between, but to the left of the cup holders. The button has a chrome ring trim which matches the chrome ring of the cup holders well. To make this hole, you can use a drill (instructions are included with the system) or buy a hole saw of the correct size from advancedkeys. To be honest, this is the one thing the installer I attempted to use did for me. If I were doing it myself, I would probably buy the hole saw.
I'll list the pros and cons of the system in the next post, and install details after that.