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Author Topic: Proximity (RFID) key and push-button start system  (Read 6828 times, 18 Replies)
sully
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« on: February 15, 2011, 01:27:28 PM »

Thought I would share my experience with this.  One thing I missed from other vehicles I've owned is the proximity key system - where you don't need to take the key out of your pocket to unlock or start the car.  (If you've never had this, you may not appreciate the convenience.)  I'd been looking for some kind of aftermarket solution for the Enclave and recently found one.  As an added feature, the system includes a push-button start.  I've had it for about a month now and it works nicely, with some minor quirks.  I ended up doing most of the install myself (after a failed attempt by a local installer) and it is basically similar to installing an aftermarket remote start/alarm (which I had never done before).  It does not disable the existing OEM remote start and lock/unlock, but I now leave my OEM remote and key at home. It does involve tapping into some of the vehicle's wires and using modules that interact with the CANBUS (GMLAN), so it may not be for everyone.

If there is any interest, I can provide all the details and a list of pros and cons on this system.  The company I bought it from is called advancedkeys.  They appear to be a small Canadian company and all my interactions were essentially by email, but they helped me get the system going and solved lots of problems for me.  I am a complete amateur at this, but was able to figure it all out eventually.  The model listed on their website is not the newest version (not sure why), as the remote I have includes buttons for lock, unlock/liftgate, and remote start (as well as being a proximity key).

Thanks.
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« Reply #1 on: February 15, 2011, 02:01:55 PM »

I would love to hear more.  I miss this feature.  I'm a bit surprised it can be added aftermarket.
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2008 SLT-2 AWD Red Jewel/Titianium, 7 passenger seating, Navigation, sunroof, HUD, HID, DVD, rear audio controls, engine block heater, trailering, 18" wheels
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« Reply #2 on: February 15, 2011, 02:44:53 PM »

I would love to have this on my Clave.   thumbs up
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« Reply #3 on: February 15, 2011, 04:28:42 PM »

Well, let me get started with the details.  This info should work for all Lambda's, AFAIK.  As I said the system comes from advancedkeys.com.  The proximity key uses the same radio frequency ID (RFID) system used by OEM manufacturers or for garage access cards, corporate ID cards etc.  It's also the same idea as the Passkey III system used in the Enclave.  The "smartkey" in this case is a small, black fob about 2/3 the size of a credit card and about 3 times as thick.  It has a battery to transmit the RFID (as opposed to a passive RFID system that uses a magnetic field to induce a current in the card for power.)  On it are 3 buttons, one to unlock (or tailgate if held down), one to lock, and one to remote start.  Of course, you don't need the buttons, as the doors will unlock when you get close to the vehicle and lock as you walk away.  I found I still use the remote start (and tailgate), so it's nice to have. On the website, they only list the old model, called the AK-103B, which has no buttons on the smartkey.  The new model, AK-104 has the buttons and should be requested when ordering. 

The product is a series of modules and harnesses.  There is a smartkey module which receives the RFID and unlocks the door, starts the car, and contains an alarm (which you don't have to use - more details to follow on this).  There is a push-start module which connects to the push-start button and also to the smartkey module.  You don't need to add the push start.  You can also use a knob start, which contains a key-shaft and fits into the ignition cylinder.  You would turn this as you would a key to start the car.  I figured if I was going to all this trouble, I would go all the way with the push start.  If you get the push start, make sure to request that the illuminated text be green (as opposed to orange) as it can not be changed once you receive it (learned this the hard way).  I found it matched the dash lighting pretty well.

Besides this system, you need another module (you can find at Amazon) to bypass the Passkey III (PK3) system.  The PK3 uses an RFID chip in the factory key (you can see it designated as a + on the key).  There is an electromagnetic coil (copper) wrapped around the ignition barrel which creates a current in the RFID chip and allows it to transmit a vehicle specific code needed to start the car.  Without the chip, the car won't start even with the correct key.  The OEM remote start can get around this, but the aftermarket system needs a specific bypass.  Fortunately, there are a lot of companies that have figured all this out.  I used the DLPK (stands for door-lock, Passkey or something) module from Xpresskit.  This turned out to be the trickiest part.  I'll write a subsequent message with the details on the bypass.  Note that the PK3 is still in place and the car cannot be started without either a factory key or the smartkey (even with the key shaft in the ignition, see below).

In addition, if you get the push button start, you need a small bracket and plunger switch which is used to detect when the brake pedal is being pressed.  The car won't start (or turn off) unless the brake pedal is pressed.  In many newer cars, including ours, when the key is off (or there is no accessory power), pressing the brake does not turn on the brake lights.  There is a brake switch which the car uses to detect the pedal being depressed, but that is powered by accessory power and not battery power, so it is no good to tap into this.  Fortunately, there is a solution.  People who tow their car behind an RV (dingy towing) often need to use a supplemental braking system (a system which physically depresses their car's brake pedal when they press the brake on the RV) and need a switch to make sure the brake pedal in the car isn't incorrectly depressed while towing (which would wear down the brakes pretty fast, I suppose).  A company called Roadmaster makes a stop-light brake switch for this purpose which also works perfectly for detecting the brake pedal even when the car is off.  It is very easy to install and does not interfere with brake pedal movement.  The model number is 751221.

You will also need to get your factory key duplicated.  You don't need, or want, to get this done at the dealer, as you don't need the PK3 chip.  You just need the shaft part of the key.  I found that I couldn't get this done at Home Depot, but I drove by a small locksmith and he cut the key for $2.50.  You will need to break off the handle part of the key as you only need the shaft part.  If you use the knob start, this shaft is actually glued to the knob and used to start the car.  If you use the push start, you leave the key shaft in the ignition at all times in the ACC position (you interrupt the ACC wire from the ignition cylinder so you don't drain the battery - more on this when I give installation details).  You then cover the ignition cylinder with a patch so it looks like there is no place to insert a key.  It turns out that the best cover I could find was an anti-skid furniture pad from Home Depot (Shepard 1-1/2 in Anti-skid pads, model #9970).  They have a texture to them that matches the plastic of the steering column very well.  All in all, it is a very clean, OEM look.

So, in summary, the items you need to install this are:

1.  The Smartkey+Push start (or knob start) system model AK-104 from advancedkey.com
2.  Immobilizer bypass module Xpresskit DLKP (or similar) from Amazon, Best Buy, etc. (I also needed the Xpresskit RFLCHGM RF loop bypass, but you may not.)
3.  Roadmaster 751221 stop light brake switch
4.  Shepard 1-1/2 in anti-skid pads from Home depot (#9970)
5.  If you do this yourself, all sorts of wiring connectors, soldering iron, etc.
6.  If you install the push start, you need to make a hole somewhere for it.  I chose the center console to the right of gear selector, centered between, but to the left of the cup holders.  The button has a chrome ring trim which matches the chrome ring of the cup holders well.  To make this hole, you can use a drill (instructions are included with the system) or buy a hole saw of the correct size from advancedkeys.  To be honest, this is the one thing the installer I attempted to use did for me.  If I were doing it myself, I would probably buy the hole saw.

I'll list the pros and cons of the system in the next post, and install details after that.
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« Reply #4 on: February 15, 2011, 04:36:07 PM »

Thanks for the info
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« Reply #5 on: February 15, 2011, 04:56:03 PM »

To summarize what I like and dislike about this system:

Pros:

1. It's nice not to have to take out a key.  The smartkey is thin and fits flat in a front pocket.
2. The range of the remote functions (the lock/unlock/remote start buttons) is much better then the OEM.
3. The remote start is much more reliable (seems to work every time) then the OEM.
4. The push button is very nice, looks OEM and fully replicates the normal ignition cylinder functions.  If you press it with the engine off and the brake not depressed, it will go to ACC mode, ON mode, and then off.  Press with the brake depressed and it will start the car.
5.  The system is very intelligently designed with thoughtful backups:

     A.  If you park the car for a long time (>7 days), the system will go into a battery saving mode since it takes a certain amount of energy to search/listen for a smartkey.
     B.  In this situation, or when the battery in your smartkey has died, you are provided with 2 credit-card sized cards than can function as passive smartkeys.  Basically, you install a separate magnet antenna (very low and inside the windshield on the driver's side). Holding the passive smartkey against the windshield over this antenna will activate the sytsem. The passive smartkey is really the size of a credit card and just fits in your wallet.
     C.  The system includes 2 backup starter relays, so even if the the internal relay in the module fails, the backup relays will take over and start the car.  I think this is more an issue for those whose starter wire is high-current (ours really just communicates with the BCM to start the car) and who keep their cars a very long time.  I didn't bother with this, but it's still nice to include.

6.  Though clearly a small company, I found Brian at advancedkeys to be very helpful and knowledgable.  He answered my questions quickly and helped me get the system working well.

Cons:

1.  It can be hard to find an installer to do this for you.  I found that most installers only deal with a specific brand (e.g. Viper) and don't know how to handle something like this.  I went to 4 separate installers and the one that agreed to do it failed to do it correctly and I had to redo the whole thing.
2.  The range of the smartkey is limited.  I'm not talking about the remote functions, that use a separate antenna attached to the smartkey module which you hide in the dash and has great range.  The proximity key (RFID) uses two antennas, one in the front windshield and one in the back.  On a smaller car they create a range "bubble" of probably a few meters, but on our car, it's really a few feet.  If I walk fast, I can almost get my hand to the door handle before the system unlocks it.  Also, I installed the rear antenna on the tailgate, which is a mistake since you get out of range just by opening the tailgate.  It would probably be better against the rear, driver's side window.  The range bubble should favor the driver's side.  The downside of all this is that the doors will lock and unlock a lot as you walk around (say unloading groceries).  The antennas themselves are just small rings that aren't terribly obtrusive.  Still, on OEM systems, the antennas are totally hidden.
3.  If you remote start the vehicle, you cannot then use the remote to open the tailgate.  You can still use the other buttons, some I'm not sure why this is.
4.  As a remote start device, the system is really geared towards the proximity key concept and lacks some of the features found on other high-end remote starters (e.g. control via iPhone, 2-way reporting of vehicle status).  It's all a matter of what you want, I suppose.  Also, the more common remote starters interact more easily (via serial connections) with the bypass modules (something called D2D, or data-to-data), which this system cannot do.  Still, many alarm installers appear to prefer to do things without these serial connections and prefer connecting all the wires (called W2W or wire-to-wire).  W2W is mandatory on this system.

All in all, I am very pleased with this system and am happy to have it.  I'll provide details on the Passkey 3 bypass in the next post.
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« Reply #6 on: February 15, 2011, 05:25:11 PM »

It turns out there aren't a lot of people reporting a need to bypass the PK3 system in Lambdas.  Probably because most have, or are capable of having, factory remote start.  Though all the major bypass companies (Xpresskit aka DEI, iDatalink, and Fortran) offer modules compatible with the Enclave, I couldn't find a lot of examples of them being used.

The purpose of the bypass is to allow the car to be started without the factory PK3 chip (found in the handle of the factory key).  To prevent theft when having a bypass installed, you are then relying on the smartkey system.  As I said, I chose the DLPK module.  It is a combo module in that it is supposed to handle both bypass and communication with the car's CANBUS (GMLAN) system to unlock/lock doors, open the tailgate, flash the blinkers, and detect if a door/hood is open.  Besides the bypass function, this unit has functioned very well.  With it, there is no need to connect wires from the smartkey system to the car's wiring to unlock/lock doors, etc.  All of this is handled by the DLKP which receives the signal from the smartkey module and sends it to the CANBUS.

Unfortunately, I could never get the bypass function to program correctly.   It makes use of the fact that you can program a new factory key on our vehicles by first putting the car in the ON position with an existing factory key, turning off and then quickly inserting a new factory key and starting the car (within 5 seconds).  The instructions for adding a new factory key are in the Enclave owner's manual.  The bypass module supports bypass in two ways. The bypass works by either (1) tricking the car into thinking it still has the factory key in or (2) programming a chip connected to a copper wire loop around the key cylinder to emulate a factory key.  The first method requires that the transponder in the steering column remain energized (which uses about 30mA of battery power at all times) and, if the car looses power (i.e. you disconnect the battery), you must then start the car once with the factory key to re-initiate the "trick".

The second method, which uses an RF loop (the one I used is called the RFLCHGM, also made by Xpresskit), actually programs a new key transponder.  The transponder chip is attached to a loop of copper wire which you place around the cylinder just behind the steering wheel cover (so you don't see it).  A relay (either external or within the DLPK) closes the loop when the car is started allowing the transponder chip to be energized by the electromagnet of the key cylinder.  The result is that the car sees a factory key even when none is present.  The loop uses no power, since it is a passive system just like the factory system.  I used this method since it uses less power, and because I could never get the DLPK to program with the first method.  Also, with the first method, I felt like I needed to carry a factory key just in case the car's battery died and I was jump started.  In that case, with the first bypass method, you would need the key to start the car once before the DLPK would take over (until the next battery failure).

Now theoretically, the DLKP should close the RF loop using an internal relay just before the car is started (either remotely or with the push start).  I could never get this to work.  Both the push start module and the smartkey module have a ground-when-running (GWR) wire which is used to trigger the bypass.  The push start module actually sends a ground signal on this wire to switch the relay 0.5 msec before starting.  The smartkey module sends it as soon as it detects a valid smartkey in range.  Either is fine, but for me, neither worked with the DLPK.  Fortunately, a $6.50 relay from Radioshack was all it took to fix that problem.

It may be that I had a jumper set wrong on the smartkey module which prevented it from triggering the DLKP directly.  To use the external relay, I cut off the plug on the RFLCHGM that goes into the DLPK, so even though I have the jumper in the correct position now, I can't test if I don't need the external relay.  The GWR from the push start was always connected to ground for some reason (I think the original installer I used may have shorted it out), and using this wire would have meant that the PK3 system was bypassed at all times, even when no smartkey was in range. (This is bad for 2 reasons - first, it would be easy to steal the car, and second it would make it impossible to use the factory key when you wanted to since car would be confused by seeing 2 keys at once.)

So, in summary, for CANBUS interface (door lock/unlock, etc.), I used the DLKP.  For bypass, I used the RFLCHGM RF loop connected to an external relay.
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« Reply #7 on: February 15, 2011, 06:07:44 PM »

Sounds intriguing, Scully. I didn't see any mention of price range. Care to share that?

Thanks!
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« Reply #8 on: February 15, 2011, 07:52:15 PM »

When I started looking into this, I wondered how much this would be worth.  This system adds a lot of functionality to the car.  Comparing it to other high-end remote starter/alarms, I think it is fairly competitive and those don't include a proximity key or push start (though they do have other features lacking in this system).  Here is a rough breakdown:

1. Advancedkey AK-104 system - $280
2. Xpresskit DLPK - $55 (Sonicelectronics or $80 at Bestbuy, among others)
3. Xpresskit RFLCHGM - $25 (Amazon or Bestbuy)
4. Roadmaster 751221 stop light brake switch - $35 (I got it from etrailer.com)
5. Anti-skid pads - $2.50 from Home depot
6. Butt-end connectors, t-taps, piezo buzzer (optional), wire, tape, switch etc - $20-$30 (Radioshack)
7. Your time - priceless

So about $430 for parts plus installation.  If you have an installer you really trust and think they can do this, I would bet 3-5 hours of install time just because they aren't used to this system and they would be hesitant to quote less.  That could range from $200-500.  I doubt this is something BestBuy would do since they don't sell it.  The funny thing is, it's not that hard if you have all the details for a particular vehicle.  The big remote start companies provide this, but for advancedkeys, it's lacking.  However, I think I could give anyone interested in doing this in a Lambda more then enough detail that they could get this done on a Saturday without too much hassle (and a lot of money saved). The wires you need to access are easy to get to.

I still need to write up the installation details and post some pictures.  If there is interest, I'll try to do it tomorrow or the next day.
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« Reply #9 on: February 15, 2011, 08:10:44 PM »

Pardon me for misspelling your name! Sorry...  facepalm
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Why are they called "hemorrhoids"? Shouldn't they be called "asteroids"?
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« Reply #10 on: February 15, 2011, 08:17:49 PM »

Excellent writeup.  Thank you for the details.  Keep 'em coming.

Does the factory remote start still function?  I have the GM Advanced two way system and it has good range.  I also have a Directed two way remote to the GM LAN bus.  It has excellent range.  (OK, why do I have both?  The rear hatch release button on the Directed doesn't work the rear hatch and they (Directed tech support) weren't interested in getting it working.)

My quick lookover of the AdvancedKeys site gave me the indication that knob start wouldn't require the imobilizer bypass or the brake switch.  Is that your understanding?

I prefer the knob start over the push start myself.  (That's what my other car has.)  I assume that if someone took the knob/key/chip out, the regular key would still work.  You would probably have to wire in the bypass switch, though.

What did the installer screw up?  This doesn't seem that difficult.  (Well, maybe a little.)

Thanks.
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« Reply #11 on: February 15, 2011, 11:27:11 PM »

The factory remote start still works.  I think you're right about the knob start not requiring the brake switch, but you would need some kind of bypass or a starter control relay.  The nice thing about the bypass combo modules is the CANBUS interface.  You can get interfaces that just do the CANBUS and not the bypass that should work well.  However, if you keep the chip in the knob start, you would want to use a relay to disable ignition unless the smartkey was in range.  They give instructions for this. (Otherwise, someone could just drive away.)  Alternatively, you could use the RFLCHGM loop with a relay and not connect the horn to the smartkey module (so that the smartkey alarm doesn't sound when you open the door with the factory key/fob).  Then, if you want to remove the knob and use the key, you could leave the smartkey at home and a factory key would work.  Only trick would be to make sure you didn't have the smartkey in your pocket and try to use the factory key.  Another way is to place a hidden switch to disconnect ground on the smartkey module.  This would disconnect the module and return everything to a factory state.  Maybe that's what you meant by a bypass switch.

The installer's mistakes were numerous.  Amazingly, wires were connected to the wrong inputs and relays placed were they didn't belong or weren't needed.  It took me a couple of days to figure out what he did and undo it all.  The system sort of worked when I left the installer (after 2 days without the car) and I didn't realize the extent of the errors until I had already left (too eager just to get out of there).  I wasn't interested in going back to have more damage done.

Anyway, I'll post installation details soon.
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« Reply #12 on: February 16, 2011, 09:50:12 AM »

Here are a few pictures of the install (sorry for Blackberry quality):

The first is of the push button on the center console.  I would have liked it a little to the right, but I can live with it where it is.  The letters "ENGINE/START/STOP" are actually lit green and a pretty good match to the dash lights.  There is a small LED above the letters that changes color to indicate ACC/ON/OFF or ready to start mode.

The second picture is of the ignition cylinder cover.  It's the furniture anti-skid pad.  The flash makes it seem a little reflective, but it isn't.  Frankly, I can't really see it since it is blocked by the steering wheel, but I think the patch blends pretty well (especially for about 30 cents).  Underneath this is the cut off key shaft and the ignition is permanently in the ACC position.  (To avoid draining the battery, the brown ignition wire from the ignition cylinder harness connector has been cut and connected to a toggle switch located under the driver's side kick panel. It can be turned back on if you revert to the factory key.  Otherwise, the push button controls ACC power.)

The last picture is of the driver's side windshield showing one of the circular antennas.  It is tucked partially in the headliner, but there is a tape supplied to adhere it to the glass if you like.  I was testing different positions for a while and never bothered to tape it.  One annoying thing is the antenna has an orange ring on it (hard to see in the picture), making it more noticeable.  The location is fairly sensitive and any metal surface blocking the ring will also block the signal.

More to follow.
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« Reply #13 on: February 16, 2011, 11:11:50 PM »

These are cool photos of your "push to start" Enclave. The aftermarket components integrate nicely to the extent that they seem as if they could have been factory installed. thumbs up
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« Reply #14 on: February 18, 2011, 02:25:03 PM »

Thanks for the good comments on the install.  I thought I'd provide some of the details on installation now.  I'll do this in parts so it doesn't get too long per message.

For a great source of information (both general to automotive wiring and model specific, check out the12volt dot com - I can't post links yet).  They have wiring diagrams there that are very helpful.

I've listed the parts needed in previous posts and will assume anyone doing this can find the correct wire taps, connectors, etc.  If possible, it's always best to solder connections, but I use connectors also and try to relieve strain on connections by bundling wires with zip ties.  In the steering column, it may be wise to solder here since the column can move which could create unanticipated strain on a connection.

Step 1.  Panel removal

You need to get access to the BCM (body control module, aka the car's "computer") wires, the ignition and transponder connectors in the steering column, and some source for 12V battery (constant power).  To remove the driver's kick panel (also called a hush panel due the sound insulation it provides, I guess), you can use a trim tool or flat head screwdriver to remove the 3 plugs which lock the fasteners holding the panel.  There is an explanation of how to do this (with pictures, I recall) elsewhere on this site (probably the towing section since this is where the connector is for that).

The larger panel that goes around the bottom of the steering wheel and includes the headlight switch just pops off.  You have to pull hard.  Do it with the driver's side door open.  I grab the thick plastic part just under the steering wheel and pull out.  (I've done this about 100 times now and it still is a hard pull.)  Remove the headlight switch plug (squeeze the black tab to release - it's in sideways).

To access the steering wheel wiring, remove the 4 bolts (I recall 9mm) under the cover.  Make sure the steering wheel is fully extended towards you and all the way down.  After removing the bolts, there are three plastic parts to the cover, one on each side and one on top.  They just pull apart.  Don't worry about that louver like panel that moves up and down with the steering wheel.  As long as the steering column is fully extended, that piece doesn't get in the way of removing the cover or reinstalling it.

For 12V battery access, I can't take credit for finding the source I used.  The installer I used (and then left) set up this tap.  He chose a Red/black wire on the passenger side, on the right knee well.  I really don't why, but didn't feel like replacing it.  The connection, as all 12V power connections should be, is fused (ie has a fuse interrupting the connection in case of a short circuit) and is working fine.  To access this location, open the passenger side door and pull up on the trim plate on the bottom of the door opening.  Then pull this entire piece of trim out to expose a large bundle of wires.  There are two similar color wires and I don't know which is best, so use a digital multi-meter (DMM) to test for constant 12V.  Another source (untested by me) is the Red/white wire on the ignition cylinder harness.  Ideally, you would want to get this from the engine compartment fuse box, but I can't find an easy way to get a wire through the firewall.  I even asked cableguy about this, as he did it for some other accessory he was installing, but I couldn't replicate his effort.

Last, but not least, is the faux woodgrain trim panel around the center console cup holders.  This just pops up without much difficulty.  It helps to put the car in neutral (with food on brake) so you can lift the panel over the gear selector.  One potential problem here is that it is very easy to lose the little metal clips that hold this trim in place.  They seem to love to fall into the nether regions of the center console.  I ended up buying several extra.  The part number is 16754704.  They cost is about 50 cents each (get a dozen just in case).

Step 2: Power and ground

Each of the modules will require 12V constant and ground, as will any relays and the brake stop light switch.  I have a single wire coming from the passenger side (see above) that I used to tap into.  The wire itself is fused as are any taps into it.  That way, even if a relay or module shorts, it will have its own fuse and you can isolate the problem.  The are a couple of inline fuses that don't get used on the advancedkey system that you can usurp for other purposes.  All the 12V connections from the advancedkey modules come with their own fuses as does the 12V lead for the brake switch.  So, I could "take" two unused fuses from the advancedkey system and use for the 2 relays I ended up needing.

For ground, it is always best to use a heavy gauge wire and run it as short a distance as possible to an unpainted portion of the body frame.  You can easily tap (drill) a new hole yourself after sanding off any finish, but there are several bolts under the dash you can find to use as ground.

Step 3: The brake switch

Roadmaster has an excellent install guide with photos for doing this.    Here is a link to it: "www dot roadmasterinc dot com/pdf/751221.pdf".  It has a nice photo of the fastener location for removing the hush panel.  The bracket I got was black, not red as in the photo.  Also, the area they show you to trim from the hush panel is not quite generous enough.  There is no need to get fancy with trimming this panel, I used some garden sheers.  You will never see this panel unless you are lying on the floor of the driver's side and so I wouldn't try to emulate the curved line shown in the instructions.

Connect the fused 12V line to your 12V power line and attach a spade connector.  Connect the green wire to the other spade connector.  You will connect the brake input of both advancedkey modules to this green wire later.  Connect the switch to the hole in the bracket as shown and make a rough guess as to how far to leave the button sticking out.  Install the bracket and use a DMM to measure the voltage on the green wire.  Adjust the height of the button so that it is fully depressed and reads 0V when the brake is at rest and reads 12V when you use your head to press down the brake pedal.  If you don't get this done correctly, the push start module won't sense the brake pedal properly and either won't let you start the car or won't let you stop it. Make sure your wiring to this connector is secure as I knocked off the green wire from the spade connector a little while reinstalling the hush panel.  As a result, there was enough of a connection to start the car, but it got loose while driving and I couldn't turn it off.

IF THIS HAPPENS TO YOU:  Don't do what I did.  I pulled the fuse on the system (using the fuse connected to the main 12V tap on the passenger side) which turned off the car.  I then couldn't start the car with the push button.  Every time the fuse was reinserted, the push start would be in the ON position (with the car not started).  When I realized I had disconnected the brake switch, I fixed the green wire (mind you I was away from home without tools), but it still wouldn't work.  It turns out the push button module has a safety mechanism.  If it looses power, it attempts to go back to its previous state (which was ON or started in my case).  To reset it, you must depress the brake (with the brake switch connected properly) and hold the button for about 10 secs.  Brian from advancedkeys informed me of this after the fact.  It is not in the manual.

Next, Part II: Drilling into your car's trim panels  Shocked
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« Reply #15 on: February 18, 2011, 02:42:33 PM »

Here are a few pictures of the install (sorry for Blackberry quality):

The first is of the push button on the center console.  I would have liked it a little to the right, but I can live with it where it is.  The letters "ENGINE/START/STOP" are actually lit green and a pretty good match to the dash lights.  There is a small LED above the letters that changes color to indicate ACC/ON/OFF or ready to start mode.

The second picture is of the ignition cylinder cover.  It's the furniture anti-skid pad.  The flash makes it seem a little reflective, but it isn't.  Frankly, I can't really see it since it is blocked by the steering wheel, but I think the patch blends pretty well (especially for about 30 cents).  Underneath this is the cut off key shaft and the ignition is permanently in the ACC position.  (To avoid draining the battery, the brown ignition wire from the ignition cylinder harness connector has been cut and connected to a toggle switch located under the driver's side kick panel. It can be turned back on if you revert to the factory key.  Otherwise, the push button controls ACC power.)

The last picture is of the driver's side windshield showing one of the circular antennas.  It is tucked partially in the headliner, but there is a tape supplied to adhere it to the glass if you like.  I was testing different positions for a while and never bothered to tape it.  One annoying thing is the antenna has an orange ring on it (hard to see in the picture), making it more noticeable.  The location is fairly sensitive and any metal surface blocking the ring will also block the signal.

More to follow.


Looks cool, good job.

I have two questions.

What is that little rubber stop under the ignition used for. Mine is falling out, and I can't get it back in, but I was wondering what it's used for?

and, in your second picture, is your carpet sliced or something?

Greg
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« Reply #16 on: February 18, 2011, 03:59:44 PM »

Greg,

Thank you.  I don't know what that rubber thing is for.  I've read maybe so that your keys don't make so much noise when hanging from the ignition (?).  There isn't anything behind it that I could find.  I think someone was hoping it would have a release for the key when the batter dies, but unfortunately not (and I've had this happen - you need to jump start first to get the key out).

I'm not sure what you mean about carpet.  The second picture (of the steering wheel) doesn't include the carpet.  In the background you can see the word "Bose" from the driver's side door speaker.  Don't see the carpet in the other pictures either, so I'm not sure what you mean.  But no, I didn't slice it anywhere.
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« Reply #17 on: February 18, 2011, 04:08:37 PM »

Greg,

Thank you.  I don't know what that rubber thing is for.  I've read maybe so that your keys don't make so much noise when hanging from the ignition (?).  There isn't anything behind it that I could find.  I think someone was hoping it would have a release for the key when the batter dies, but unfortunately not (and I've had this happen - you need to jump start first to get the key out).

I'm not sure what you mean about carpet.  The second picture (of the steering wheel) doesn't include the carpet.  In the background you can see the word "Bose" from the driver's side door speaker.  Don't see the carpet in the other pictures either, so I'm not sure what you mean.  But no, I didn't slice it anywhere.


ok, I see the wording now....at first that looked like it was a 'slice' of either the spearker or the carpet.
But, I see it correctly now.

Thanks,
greg
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2011 Buick Enclave CXL-2 - Cyber Gray/Titanium  Nav,Sunroof,Duel DVD,Captains Chairs 2nd row,Trailer Package. Build date Thursday, 09/23/10. Purchase 12/10/10
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« Reply #18 on: February 18, 2011, 06:56:33 PM »

There are essentially 3 locations that require drilling through a trim panel.

1.  The push button - This the second thing I can't take credit for doing.  The installer did this.  Advancedkeys sells a hole saw that would probably be worth it.  I will say that in addition to going through the rather thin plastic of the faux wood trim, you also must go through the thicker plastic of the center console.  The push button is about 4 inches tall, but obviously you only see the top.  If I were doing this, I would remove the wood trim, drill the hole, then put in back in place and mark the whole in the underlying center console, remove the trim again, drill through the console, and reinstall the wood trim.  There is a lot of empty space under there, so you won't cut any wires if your drill goes a little too far.  I would also recommend gluing the button on the underside of the wood trim with silicon.  If you push it all the way through, you will have a headache trying to pull it back up.  The hole I have really only works one way - that is, you have to push the button into the hole, you can't pull it up from the button.  It is hard wired to a cable with a plug on the other end that connects to the push button controller.  So if you need to push it back through the trim piece, you have to disconnect it, fish the wire back through the center console to the controller and put it back in place.  This happened to me a couple of times as I was "learning the install".  I would tie a string to the end if the connector when I pulled it out so I could easily fish it through.  The first (and hopefully only time) you install the button, you will need to fish the wires through the center console towards the inside (right) wall of the driver's knee well, above the carpeting.  It's very easy and can be done with a coat hanger (put tape on the end so you don't scrape something.

2.  Smartkey LED - The smartkey controller comes with an LED that you can mount really anywhere.  It has a little sleeve that fits over the LED and provides a finished, trimmed look on the dash.  I put it just above and to the right of the headlamp control knob.  The reason for this is (1) you can see the LED from the driver's side window and it informs you if the alarm has gone off, etc., and (2) because I placed smartkey controller under the dash right behind this location for easy access.  Behind the headlamp knob is a fairly large hole in the dash metal where I stowed the smartkey controller and DLPK bypass.

3.  ACC toggle - If you are installing the push button, you need to have the cut key shaft in the ignition at all times in the ACC position.  This is so the steering wheel is unlocked.  Otherwise you could start the car, but just not steer (hardly ideal).  Since you don't want to power the ACC circuit (and all the car's accessories) at all times (since your battery will last about an hour), you cut the brown ACC wire a couple of inches from where it exists the ignition cylinder connector and attach long wires to each end of this cut wire.  The other end of this cut wire goes to a simple toggle switch.  In one position, the ACC wire is left open (cut), in the other, it is closed (as if uncut).  That way if you need to remove the cut key and use your factory key, you can restore ACC power.  I placed this toggle switch on the hush panel (kick panel) just to the left of the light that illuminates the driver's knee well.


Module placement:

1.  DLPK - in space behind dashboard accessible from hole behind headlamp knob.

2.  Smartkey controller - just above DLPK in the same hole.  There may be better locations for this as it is a tight fit.  The problem is that most of the wires from the smartkey controller connect to the DLPK, so it makes sense to keep them together.  There is a wire that connects from the smartkey controller to the push start controller and a wire that connects to the brake switch, but the rest go to the DLPK.  Also, there is a short pigtail antenna on the smartkey controller that receives the signals from the remote to remote start, or lock/unlock (from a distance, not using the proximity key feature).  If the antenna is too buried in the dash, or underneath the dash, it will have poor reception.  The location I've stated seems to give good range (certainly much better then the OEM range I was experiencing - which was pathetic).  You sort of extend the antenna up and to the right of the duct leading to the left hand AC vent.

3.  Push start controller - here you are limited based on the length of the cable coming from the push start itself.  Basically, I put double sided tape on it and stuck to the right side wall of the driver's side knee well, above the carpet and hush panel.

4.  Push start button - I suppose you could find other locations besides the center console.


Next installment, Part 3 - wire connections...
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