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Author Topic: Struts & Shocks  (Read 25644 times, 92 Replies)
dzs3fz
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« on: March 18, 2012, 05:32:47 PM »

Just about to turn 100k miles and wondering if anyone has replaced the OEM struts/shocks?
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« Reply #1 on: March 18, 2012, 06:01:25 PM »

Do you think your Enclave needs new ones? If the ride is still okay, I would leave them alone. If the ride is showing the wear and tear of the struts, then I would stick with OEMs to.preserve the original riding and handling characteristics.
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« Reply #2 on: March 18, 2012, 06:22:51 PM »

Just about to turn 100k miles and wondering if anyone has replaced the OEM struts/shocks?

See link:

http://www.saturnoutlookforum.net/index.php?topic=2245.0
« Last Edit: March 18, 2012, 06:24:53 PM by XRDreamliner » Logged

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« Reply #3 on: March 18, 2012, 07:29:17 PM »

I noticed today that our fronts/rears make a sound going over speed bumps, and i was going as slowly as possible.  Like a squish sound.  I'm gonna assume it's normal, but I wonder if that kind of stuff gets replaced under warranty?  Because they are wear items, just that imho shouldn't do it at 8k.... Huh?
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dzs3fz
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« Reply #4 on: March 18, 2012, 08:16:33 PM »

Do you think your Enclave needs new ones? If the ride is still okay, I would leave them alone. If the ride is showing the wear and tear of the struts, then I would stick with OEMs to.preserve the original riding and handling characteristics.
My ride is still smooth and quite so I was just wondering....which raises an OEM question.  Are all parts stocked/ordered by the dealer genune OEM?
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« Reply #5 on: March 18, 2012, 09:30:28 PM »

My ride is still smooth and quite so I was just wondering....which raises an OEM question.  Are all parts stocked/ordered by the dealer genune OEM?
  imho a dealership does not use anything but OEM.  The problem becomes, at least with Nissan, they have a value line of OEM, which costs less and is not what the vehicles came with.  This is because they want to compete with the Midas/Meineke etcs. of the world.
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« Reply #6 on: March 18, 2012, 10:04:22 PM »

My ride is still smooth and quite so I was just wondering....which raises an OEM question.  Are all parts stocked/ordered by the dealer genune OEM?

I would expect that the dealers use only genuine OEM parts. I guess that you are just thinking ahead, since it seems that your car does not need replacement struts and shocks yet. wink
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« Reply #7 on: March 19, 2012, 12:48:54 AM »

Just about to turn 100k miles and wondering if anyone has replaced the OEM struts/shocks?

Not taking this too off track but I had to replace the front struts at nearly 80,000 miles on my 03 Saturn VUE in January.  Hadn't planned on that but my mechanic Ted put OEM replacement struts and back on.  We were noticing a noise and a vibration when driving and turning.

Not sure what the difference would be between the build of the struts so perhaps the Enclave won't need these replaced yet.
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« Reply #8 on: March 19, 2012, 01:40:13 AM »

It's difficult to assign a mileage to a shock or strut... some guidance is provided in the link:

http://www.tirereview.com/Article/87667/what_really_wears_out_inside_shocks_and_struts.aspx

Aside from obvious external fluid leakage, shocks and struts degrade so gradually, it can be difficult to assess when to replace them.  The tires will begin to cup due to the shock/strut not be able to damp out the motion properly, for example, and "follow the road".  A vehicle that carries heavy loads or pulls a trailer will typically wear out the shock/strut faster.  Driving down a "washboard" highway during your normal commute will shorten the shock/strut life.

Overall, if you are 80k miles or over, your should have the suspension (shocks/struts) checked (and potentially replaced) to restore handling and save tire life.

  
« Last Edit: March 19, 2012, 12:16:31 PM by XRDreamliner » Logged

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« Reply #9 on: March 19, 2012, 12:04:50 PM »

it may be difficult to asses if shocks have aged gracefully-- unless it totally fails.
But over 100K it surely isnt  doing a job like it did at 5000.

It may still be ok-- but tired.

at 100K I would change them all out.
Thats what Ive done on my past vehicles- just change them out.

And as many of us have found- not too many people make shocks/struts for the lambdas--- you pretty much have to go OEM..

Ill tell you what-- the rears look to be very easy to change.
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« Reply #10 on: March 19, 2012, 12:25:43 PM »

I noticed today that our fronts/rears make a sound going over speed bumps, and i was going as slowly as possible.  Like a squish sound.  I'm gonna assume it's normal, but I wonder if that kind of stuff gets replaced under warranty?  Because they are wear items, just that imho shouldn't do it at 8k.... Huh?

I'd be more inclined to say the squish sound(s) could be control arm or stabilizer bushing noise, rather than internal shock or strut noise.  On the front struts, a 'bad" upper mount makes a knock sound vs. a squish sound.

At 8k miles, if you've had it in service less than 12 months, then the 12 month/12k mile "anything broken warranty" applies.  After that period, the 3 yr/36k mile "bumper-to-bumper" warranty, except wear items, applies.

I'd take it in and have the service guy take a test drive with you, for them to listen to the issue firsthand.
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« Reply #11 on: March 19, 2012, 04:25:20 PM »

I noticed today that our fronts/rears make a sound going over speed bumps, and i was going as slowly as possible.  Like a squish sound.  I'm gonna assume it's normal, but I wonder if that kind of stuff gets replaced under warranty?  Because they are wear items, just that imho shouldn't do it at 8k.... Huh?

Bulletin No.: 09-03-08-004D

Date: November 05, 2010

Subject: Squawk or Creak Type Noise from Front of Vehicle (Apply Grease on Strut Piston Rod)
Models:
2008-2011 Buick Enclave
2009-2011 Chevrolet Traverse
2007-2011 GMC Acadia
2007-2010 Saturn OUTLOOK
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« Reply #12 on: March 19, 2012, 04:51:45 PM »

Bulletin No.: 09-03-08-004D

Date: November 05, 2010

Subject: Squawk or Creak Type Noise from Front of Vehicle (Apply Grease on Strut Piston Rod)
Models:
2008-2011 Buick Enclave
2009-2011 Chevrolet Traverse
2007-2011 GMC Acadia
2007-2010 Saturn OUTLOOK

Wow, what a band-aid solution to a strut design... and I wonder how long the "greased" piston rod will be quiet until the condition re-appears?  After the 3 yr./36k mile warranty expires?  

Looks like the entire Lambda population is covered up to MY2011.  I'd be curious if the 2012 struts have a different P/N.  If so, maybe that P/N should be used when replacing struts on pre-2012 Lambda's???
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« Reply #13 on: March 19, 2012, 06:09:56 PM »

Wow, what a band-aid solution to a strut design... and I wonder how long the "greased" piston rod will be quiet until the condition re-appears?  After the 3 yr./36k mile warranty expires?  

Perhaps I should have copied the whole TSB because it is a rubber jounce bumper rubbing against the piston rod of the strut as I've now copied below.  This is actual the first time I've read about this complaint on the board, and I'm not even sure if this is what is wrong with John070's Buick.  Just a post letting him know there is a TSB which MAY help him.  (Or others who haven't reported the problem on here).  I could not copy the picture which shows the area which is covered by the bumper and which requires grease.

Some customers may comment on a squawk, creak or itch type noise coming from the front suspension of the vehicle that may be more noticeable in cold temperatures. This noise will most likely be heard during small to medium suspension travel. The noise may occur with the vehicle traveling straight and/or during turns.

Cause

The cause of this condition at cold weather conditions may be due to the inside diameter of the front strut jounce bumper rubbing against the piston rod of the strut, creating a slip-stick condition.

Correction
1.    Identify the noise at the upper strut mount area. The concern may be on both sides of the vehicle.
2.    Raise and support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in SI.

  

Important
Take care not to damage the dust boot or mount cup during removal.

3.    Pull the dust boot/jounce bumper assembly out of the strut mount jounce cup (1).
4.    Slide the dust tube/jounce bumper assembly down to expose the top portion of the piston rod (1). A long screwdriver or pry bar may be required to pop the dust boot/jounce bumper assembly from the mount cup.
5.    Apply grease, GM P/N 12345579 (in Canada, 10953481), around the circumference of the piston rod ONLY in the exposed area (to top 25 mm (1 in) of the piston rod, measured from bottom of mount cup).
6.    Raise the dust tube/jounce bumper assembly up to the mount cup.
7.    Rotate the dust tube/jounce bumper assembly on the piston rod to ensure grease is distributed around the rod.
8.    Re-seat the dust tube/jounce bumper assembly into the mount cup.

Note
After installing the dust tube/jounce bumper, the vehicle should be driven over a road surface that will input sufficient jounce travel into the suspension, which will aid the dust tube/jounce bumper assembly into the mount cup (speed bump, driveway entrance, or other bump).
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« Reply #14 on: March 19, 2012, 09:29:26 PM »

At around 33,000 miles I had a thump noise and a rattle on bumps so I took my 2009 in. The front right strut was leaking and it was replaced on warranty. At 36,000 miles when it was in for an oil change they noticed the left front strut was leaking and replaced it on warranty also.  I drive to avoid the pot holes and know where the curbs are, don't have to bump them when parking, so I was disappointed the struts needed to be replaced so soon but happy warranty took care of the replacement.
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« Reply #15 on: June 29, 2012, 05:13:48 PM »

Had tires/oil change at dealer this am. Left dealer and noted immediately front end bobbing up and down like some tricked out low rider. Returned to dealer. Evidently with 113,000 miles 100 degree heat, the fully extended weight of the suspension while up off the ground fully extended the struts and blew the seals. Consider this normal maintence but bad/unexpected timing.  Replacing right now 2008 enclave Cry
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« Reply #16 on: June 29, 2012, 06:08:19 PM »

IMO they should always be replaced around 70K - 100K.  The internal damping starts getting worn around 50K.  You tend to not notice because it is a very gradual degradation.  Once you put new ones on you really notice how badly the worn one were.  Strut mounts wear similarly so you should replace those.  The rears are very easy to replace.  The fronts require a spring compressor and a front end alignment.  Not a super difficult job ( maybe a 6 or 7 on a scale 1-10) but you just can't do it without a spring compressor.
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« Reply #17 on: June 29, 2012, 07:48:20 PM »

I'm putting new ones on my Nissan tomorrow, it's at 216k.  Will be interesting to see the difference and difficulty of the job.  I bought oem equiv KYBs for the rear, but I had a change of heart and don't feel like getting into compressing the springs, so Monroe Quick Struts for the front.  It would be kinda funny if the car rode the same after going through all that in 96F humid weather.  I thought it'd be the opposite, but the older I get, the less interested I am in these tasks.  Smiley
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« Reply #18 on: June 29, 2012, 08:42:19 PM »

Was notified my 2008 front struts need replacing along with swaybar link.

Anyone have cost estimate on struts?
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« Reply #19 on: June 29, 2012, 09:12:44 PM »

I'm putting new ones on my Nissan tomorrow, it's at 216k.  Will be interesting to see the difference and difficulty of the job.  I bought oem equiv KYBs for the rear, but I had a change of heart and don't feel like getting into compressing the springs, so Monroe Quick Struts for the front.  It would be kinda funny if the car rode the same after going through all that in 96F humid weather.  I thought it'd be the opposite, but the older I get, the less interested I am in these tasks.  Smiley

+1  The quickstruts are a good alternative and considerably cuts the labor.  I'm 48 now and find less and less interest doing my own work Smiley Used to do EVERYTHING.
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