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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, picked up an 08 enclave with a few issues. Hoping you can point me to potential DIY solutions. Vehicle has 130k on it and no warranty. It has had water leakage issues so I cleaned the sunroof drains, pulled the roof racks and sealed the bolt holes. Hoping that resolves that, but have not tested yet.

It idles fine, seems to run and drive "ok", not great, but ok (timing chains are stretched so I have check engine light on for that and a mild misfire commonly associated with that, plan to replace those soon.

It has a bunch of service lights on in the driver information center though (listed in title).

I read about the PVC valve issue and that it can affect the ABS and Stabilitrack. I plan to pull that and clean that system tonight. Previous owner replaced the throttle body. Wondering if there are other well known (or not) fixes for these systems (AWD off, Service ABS, Service traction control, Service Stabilitrack, Service Airbag)?

I've done some searching, but wondering if there is any one thing that can hit all of these systems at once or if I need to tackle them all as separate issues?

It does have a couple of active CEL codes:
P0014 (timing chain related)
P0017 (timing chain related)
P0700 (general transmission code)

A couple other historical ones dealing with the transmission pressure switches:
P0877 (transmission pressure switch D circuit low)
P0989 (transmission pressure switch E circuit low)

I saw a procedure for replacing these pressure switches and seems DIY doable. Not sure if they would have anything to do with the DIC error messages though?

any advice, links to posts that address these things would be helpful.
 

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ABS, Traction and Stabilitrak are all related to your P0014/17 codes. You could check the resistance on the ignition coils, one or 2 may be faulty. The timing chain misfires are ruining your catalytic converters, don't forget. 2-3 months and you'll be adding P0420/P0430 to your list.

The pressure switches are a breeze. They do hide other problems tho. All 4 pressure switches were gone on mine and after the repair, a solenoid was faulty and the output speed sensor was broken. After those repairs, a wave plate was cracked.

You can test the TCM solenoids when you have it out which I didn't do... Run battery cable and clamp the ground, tap the positive on each set of solenoid prongs. I stress the "tapping" part. Hold it longer than a few seconds and you will burn it out lol. You'll see the plunger move. Or not move.

Service airbag. I have that one too. The LAST one after the dash looked like a Christmas tree. It's become kind of symbolic...
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks! Much appreciated. The vehicle is sitting while it awaits repairs so hopefully no damage is done to the cats. I guess I'll start with the timing chain fix then and see what's left afterward.

The transmission switches I was planning on pulling the module out with the transmission in the car. It looks like there is enough space to pull the front pan and remove it.

Good news, the enclave has been in the rain a few days now and the interior is dry. Looks like cleaning the sunroof drains and sealing the roof rack bolts did the trick.
 

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I've done the timing chain. If you're experienced, ignore. If it's your first time like it was for me, here's a few tips,

- Keep everything you remove organized. I ended up with 1 extra bolt on my table. Absolutely no idea where it goes, I looked everywhere. Runs fine so *whistles

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Unbolting the power steering is without a doubt, the toughest part. There is no right way to get your arms up and around and in...bah you'll see.

- Every single electrical connector locking clip is constructed of the flimsiest, most fragile plastic known to man and serve two purposes only. To break and to connect.

- Practice positioning the timing cover back on to the engine without bumping anything before you apply gasket silicone. Stuff gets everywhere. My dog even ended up with it on her that first time...

Good luck dude.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've done the timing chain. If you're experienced, ignore. If it's your first time like it was for me, here's a few tips,

- Keep everything you remove organized. I ended up with 1 extra bolt on my table. Absolutely no idea where it goes, I looked everywhere. Runs fine so *whistles

-
Unbolting the power steering is without a doubt, the toughest part. There is no right way to get your arms up and around and in...bah you'll see.

- Every single electrical connector locking clip is constructed of the flimsiest, most fragile plastic known to man and serve two purposes only. To break and to connect.

- Practice positioning the timing cover back on to the engine without bumping anything before you apply gasket silicone. Stuff gets everywhere. My dog even ended up with it on her that first time...

Good luck dude.
Thanks. Yeah, I've done timing belts before, but never chains. I have watched a couple of youtube videos on it and it seems like no fun at all, but I need to do it so going to just dig in and hope for the best. I do appreciate the tips.

Question, when you do the chains, do you have to replace the intake or valve cover gaskets or can they be reused? I assume the timing cover uses RTV to seal it by your comments. I saw a tube of it was included in the timing cover gasket set I bought also. I'm not so sure about the other gaskets though. Figured it would be worth asking.

Also, getting the crank bolt out and harmonic balancer off... what's the best way to go about that? I have an impact wrench. Hoping that will zip the bolt off, but wasn't sure if you need a special puller for the balancer?

I'll be working on the ground also, no lift so I'm sure I'm in for a treat. I have to replace the strut on that side anyway though so I may pull it and the cv axle just to get some room to work. We'll see though.

Thanks again.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I ordered parts last night. Bought the Melling brand timing kit (heard about a few premature failures with the cloyes, hopefully it's a good set), timing cover gasket set and valve cover gasket set. I haven't had the valve covers off yet, but I had heard that the newer gasket sets have a block off molding on one end to help with the pcv and oil consumption issues so figured I should make sure that is done while I'm in there. Hoping to get started on it this weekend. Should have the parts friday according to tracking.
 

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I replaced the lower intake manifold gasket and the water pump gasket. Everything else I left. I had problems with leaking coolant which wasn't due to the silicone gasket so I don't know. Ultra black by Permatec? was what I used.

The balancer, we just wedged a crowbar in it and used a breaker bar. The pulley I remember, there are 3 notches in the back for the legs if you think it doesn't fit at first.

Please keep in mind, I'm no professional. My advice/observations are knowledge any mechanic with experience would know I'd imagine. Annoyances that wasted a lot of my time lol. At the bottom of it all was the repair manual. We followed it step by step.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Well, timing chains are done, vehicle is running. I don’t seem to have any disgnostic trouble codes, but all of the stabilitrack, abs, airbag, awd off driver information center warnings are still there.

I did notice that all the water that came into the vehicle from the roof and sunroof is still soaked into the foam under the passenger side floor carpet (and I’m sure drivers and back seat as well). There are tons of wires that run along it sitting in that wet environment.

not sure if this could cause it?

I had issues with a previous enclave 2012 we owned when there was water inside the covering of the main door harness. Caused a bunch of intermittent issues window, seat heater, etc. Thought maybe this might be similar?

anyway. Looking for ideas on these problems now if anyone has experience with them.

thanks in advance.
 

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Pull the seat and the center console and take the passenger carpet section out. It will literally take months to dry the foam underlay (if ever) while inside the SUV and the black mold starts by day two.

Kill two birds, shampoo the carpet while it's out. Hang dry it and use a space heater. Takes about three days to dry. The foam is closed cell so once the mold gets a solid foothold your only options will be to cut or replace.

I also bought some Noico sound deadening panels. I can not recommend them enough if a quiet cabin is important but to each his own.

Warning lights with no DTC'S? I can't help you with that sorry.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I’m planning to pull the seats and carpet. It has been sitting for a couple of months inside my heated garage and I pulled it up the other day to check and it’s still sopping wet.
I guess I was curious if wetness in the wiring that runs underneath could cause some of the driver info center messages I’m getting.

how does a guy clear the driver info center messages?

I can check for DTCs again, but there were none after I fired it up. I had the battery disconnected while I did the timing chains and they probably were not stored after that.

-Wes
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I was planning to drill relief holes in the foam from the underside (grid pattern) with a small hole saw (tear out the centers) to allow air to permeate the foam and help keep it dry going forward and shampoo it with bleach of some kind hopefully killing any mold. Not sure if that’s a waste of time or if there are better ideas, I’m open. That was just my thought.
 
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