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So my fiance is a mechanic and has been doing mechanic work since he was young. My mother owns a Buick Enclave year 2009 and she took it in to a shop to get inspected because there were some problems that she noticed as far as the vehicle trembling and would not go uphill very fast. They told her the front struts needed to be changed and replaced, the entire front suspension, the front and rear brake pads, the stabilizer bars, a motor mount needed to be replaced and now my fiance found that it also needs the rear shocks to be replaced. Ok so they were wanting to charge my mother almost $3,000 in repairs and labor. She voiced her concerns to me and I told her I would ask my fiance if that sounded fair because it seemed to me like they were wanting to take my mom gor a joy ride. I spoke to him and he took on the project not asking anything in return at all just that she pay for the parts. So, here we are 430 dollars in and everything has been changed except for the rear shocks that need to be replaced. The vehicle was working just fine until my fiance removed the old motor mount on the top right hand side of the vehicle and he put everything back in its place and now nothing is turning on.....NOTHING. WHAT THE **** HAPPENED? Can someone please help?
 

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Likely he just needs to recheck his work, it sounds like he forgot to reconnect something or pulled something loose by accident. Probably around the motor mount but that’s a lot of work in total that he’s done so it could have been elsewhere. Check in and around the starter, and make sure all the cables and grounds are attached properly. Also sometimes the easy fix gets overlooked, have him double check the fuses.

Is the check engine light on? Did anyone check for engine codes if it is? What are they?
The low power going uphill that you’re describing does not sound like it would be related to worn out suspension parts but rather to a misfire in one or more cylinders caused by a bad plug, coil pack or injector, or a malfunctioning O2 sensor(s) or a bad MAF, or dirty intake or plugged air filter, etc.
 

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"Top Right" motor mount is the strut mount, located under the Fuse box. The fuse box has to be removed to get at it, so I'd start there and check the connections....nothing else is near anything electrical that would cause a no start situation.
 

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"Top Right" motor mount is the strut mount, located under the Fuse box. The fuse box has to be removed to get at it, so I'd start there and check the connections....nothing else is near anything electrical that would cause a no start situation.
Exactly - he didnt seat the fuse box correctly. Exact same happened to me. He needs to re-set the fuse box properly. It can be tricky.
 

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When you say top right hand side _ assuming you mean passenger side where underhood fusebox sits. I have gone through a bunch of problematic DIY repairs lately & was at my wits end on a couple of them - but all of them were simple fixes when I took a night off and came back fresh. I am consistently reminded of Occam's Razor (it is usually the simplest things first). In fact, I removed that same mount, fusebox, etc to replace a sensor I couldn't get at any other way. Put everything back, connected fusebox and car wouldn't start. I was getting some lights on dash but nothing. Normally I would have started thinking it was something complex, etc. but discovered it was simply a cable on fusebox positive battery cable connection I forgot to reattach. There are two positive cables to the positive connection on side of fusebox (under the red plastic cover marked +) make sure both of those cables ends are on the bolt and tightened down (in my haste to reassemble, I only attached one). Also, make sure he has reattached the negative battery terminal at the battery under the seat (assuming he detached negative when doing work like removing fusebox - if not there is a risk of some electrical issues but not likely). From there, check to ensure all connectors are reconnected together around/under fusebox. Also. the main harness connectors under fusebox (big black/white receptacles beneath underhood fusebox) are secured with the (2) 10mm bolts inside fusebox...you will see an orange colored tab pull up through hole in fusebox as you snug the bolts that pull the connectors into place. If necessary, check under fusebox tray to ensure no pins were bent. Also assuming the battery just doesn't simple need a jump. From there, start looking at wires around starter (there is a starter bigger power wire & smaller signal plug/connector). From there check ground connections - use a multimeter to do a voltage drop test from battery negative to chassis ground and see if you are getting a good voltage path from different points. This should be done from positive battery terminal to positive connections like at starter (you can google voltage drop test). These steps should get you most of the way to understanding or fixing whats wrong. Check all the connections he might have touched. Remember it's usually something simple and always fixable. It might even be a blown fuse. Sounds like he did a ton of work so kudos but it can also mean he's probably ready to be done with the **** thing and not seeing everything clearly. Hence the advice to sleep on it and come back fresh and clear headed. (y)
 
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