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2010 Enclave
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Discussion Starter #1
This problem started about a month ago. Hissing sound up front, figured low on Freon, charged to ambient temp pressure chart. Worked ok, not good let alone great, for 2 days then the compressor clutch separated. Replaced compressor, both front and rear expansion valves, condenser, dryer, cleaned screen filter was plugged with debris, at the rear which hadn't worked in the two years we have owned it.
A.c. worked for 1 day then quit again. Changed compressor and dryer again, flushed lines reassembled and had charged to sow again. Worked for 2 days again, then quit. Compressor kicks on for about 30 seconds then quits. If I jump the compressor relay and cooling fan relay it kicks on and cools, but that is the only way I can get it to work.
Am I missing something? At this point I am leaning towards a computer problem, because the a.c. light is always on, weather or not it is actually cooling. According to my Snap on solus, the low pressure switch is open, and the a.c. is granted and allowed, but it will now engage the compressor.
 

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2015 Enclave Leather.
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"According to my Snap on solus, the low pressure switch is open, and the a.c. is granted and allowed, but it will now engage the compressor. "
Shouldn't the Low Pressure Switch be closed to indicate that there is enough pressure to engage the A/C clutch?
"But it will now engage the compressor" You mean NOT engage the compressor?
What was all the debris clogging things up?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Sorry correct will not engage. Low side says open even in the short time the compressor actually does work, that line does not change like one would think if it were the issue. I would think it would change state if it were what was holding it back.
Also I don't see a high and a low pressure switch, just one next to the compressor so I assumed it was a pressure transducer not a single switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Both expansion valves were replaced after flushing the lines. Like I said at this point I am leaning towards a computer problem because I have been down every avenue I could think of, not that I am an a.c. master. I do own my own shop, but a.c. work of this scale is not common. After replacing everything except the evaperators and lines I am at the end of the parts and the start of the electrical side. This is the wife's car so the ear bending is getting old!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Black/grey sludge, it has had a.c. issues in the past before we bought it judging by bolts and lines with wrench marks on them. So who knows what was done before us.
 

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There you go, who knows what was done before you took position of it. It could be something as stupid as someone put in the wrong refrigerant, or the wrong oil which wasn't compatible.
 

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Just one thought, perhaps the possibility of improper Freon or oil may have caused the hose to deteriorate to the point where is is collapsing inside, especially on the suction side.
 

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No where here have I seen any pressure readings. You have hooked up a manifold set correct. It sounds like a pressure issue if the compressor is starting and then kicking off. Have you tried to jump the pressure switch? Is it just a two wire open or closed switch? I really doubt that you have any kind of computer issue. How about some pressure readings to give us an idea of what's going on.
 

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I know you said that you have flushed the system a few times and replaced everything except the evaporators and lines, but you may still have some debris floating around there. It may cause a blockage which in turn will send the low side into a vacuum and trip the low side pressure switch. That would show up if we had pressure readings.
 

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Those are a little high at idle, but should cool some. How long did you let it run? Can you get it to run for an extended period of time? 20 to 30 minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Sorry for the delay. Actually yesterday and today it has worked. I feel like it could be colder but I can't find my thermometer to make sure, but I would guess it's around 50-55 out of the vents. It's enough to cool but not the cold that I would like it.
 

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Are you sure the charge is correct. If those temps were sitting at idle, it should drop 5 to 10 degrees more going down the highway. Play it by ear at this point.
 

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I don't see any reference to the vacuum step to pull out all noncondensible gases out of the AC system. I can assume the system was drawn down by the correct vacuum process, but I don't like to assume, so, was it?

If not, that would be the reason for the high pressures in the system.
 

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I would hate to think that all those parts were replaced and the system was flushed several times and a vacuum was never pulled. Some times we assume that proper protocol is followed when it's not.
 

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I don't want to hijack this thread, but I do have a similar question. My AC is going in and out a bit. When I'm driving, it's as cold as ever. When I'm sitting idling, it gets much warmer.


I'm thinking this may be a condenser fan problem. Does that sound right? If so, how hard are those to change out? How Iong does it take?

Is there a fuse or relay that might be bad? I don't know too much about the specifics.

Thanks!
 
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