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2010 Buick enclave 2CXL, 2007 GMC Acadia SLT-2
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi. Hello everyone. I'm happy owner of 07 Acadia for a almost two years now and have been reading acadia and this forums for a while now. It helped a lot to fix all my issues. But now, I become a happy owner of 2010 Enclave. And there is few issues I was unable to understand and hence resolve, so I'd like to try to call for a forums wisdom. Also it may help future generations of readers after all :) Thanks in advance guys!

So what we have?
In short:
163k miles 2010 Enclave. Stalling engine, timing chain codes, no data stream from CAM sensors.
Detailed version. Bought used as is with some engine issues. It seems that last few years under the last owner was quite rough. Oil was dark black and there was just 2.5 quarts of it in the engine when I drained it to change.
The main problem - engine starts, when starting there is a bit of a strange noise (My 07 Acadia sounds a bit different when starts) for just half-second, but then it's running good for... 30-90 seconds. And then just shuts off. Without any special effects like strange sounds, dash lights, revs going up or down. Just like if you shut it off with key. Quietly, peacefully and smoothly revs just drop to zero all of a sudden. Ignition stays on after that. I can start it up again like normal. Sometimes it goes for a minute or two, but not too long overall. I am able to drive it for a few minutes. But it tends to stall again when I stop. Also sometimes there is big hesitation happening when accelerating or just cruising. I'm not sure if "hesitation" is correct word, but I'll explain. So it accelerates pretty good, but then all of a sudden for just a mere moment (less then a second) it kinda loses power almost it looks like it's going to stall, but then it "wakes" up and continues as normal. If that happens, it only happens once during the acceleration event. It's not like it is doing this multiple time in any given minute. Also few times it died even while cruising at small speed (like 5-10 mph).
Of course there was check engine light and I happen to have pretty good OBD2 scanner (Autel AP200 (or Walmart's version - HyperTough HT200) - can't recommend it enough, for just 40-70 bucks it gives you MOST of the functions of dealer level tools). So after initial check I saw a LOT of different stored issues. But mostly it was related to the low battery voltage occurring historically. Like window motor calibrations etc. And there was P0008 and P0009 (engine position systems), as well as P0016 and P0017 (intake/exhaust CAM sensors bank 1) errors in regard to the engine. That got me alarmed. I reset everything to start from scratch and obviously after few runs MIL light came once again, and there was the same set of engine errors (no other errors though). So... starting to dig the forum. Yes, first thing everybody is talking about is timing chain issues and replacement. Ouch. But not so fast - there is good chance that the problem is with just sensors themselves. Very good evidence for this comes from the OBD2 live data - everything regarding CAM sensors is dead - no signals, no data, no nothing. Also they are much cheaper and comparably easier to change so I decided to go this way first. Spoiler alert - unfortunately it's not the end and it's more complicated.

What I have done so far?
In short:
Cleaned throttle body and MAF, changed CAM sensors. Discovered some other weird issues. It's much better, but still not right.
In detail: Ordered all 4 CAM sensors. While waiting for them - changed air filter (I changed oil and oil filter first thing in the first day). Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body. But, when I tried to adapt/relearn it via OBD2 I noticed very odd behavior. With ignition on, but engine not running when commanded manually any degree from the scan tool it goes there, but sometimes it seems like it just loses power and it flaps back to neutral state by it's internal spring. This happens for a mere split second and then it goes back up to the commanded state. Also it seems to have higher then usual high pitched whining noise when commanded states higher than 30%. AFAIK such a sound usually comes from inductors when they are overloaded/don't have enough voltage/too much amps - hmmm, that's strange. Since I have 07 Acadia too I checked behavior there (handy, isn't it? :) ) - maybe it's supposed to act like that? And no, it was acting as expected - commanded 50% - it stays all the time at 50% open. Indefinitely. Command to 100% - stays like that for as long as you command that state. And there is high pitch noise, but to much lesser extent. Next step I removed throttle body from Acadia cleaning it along the way and connected it to Buick, and yes - i triple checked, they are identical and interchangeable. Aaaand, moment of truth - is it bad throttle body (easy-peasy fix) or something else (e.g. wiring, PCM, gods mood etc). And unfortunately it's something else because known good TB acted the same weird way on the Buick. Summertime sadness :( Here is the video of it acting. Sorry, it's on another language, but I basically describe all of the above in it. July 17, 2022
Ok, so it's clearly something wrong with either wiring, engine PCM (ECM, ECU) or something else. Since I already had sensors on order decided to give it a try too. It took some time (and some hard words) to get to them, but finally I changed all of them with a new ones. What I noticed on this step - one of old sensors had marks/scuffs on it. It seems something mechanical actually hit it inside the engine. So timing chain might be real issue? Here is the photos: 3 new items by Tim Yoshi
Ok, so... what new sensors gave us? Hm... actually more questions than answers. With new CAM sensors it started fine, and worked for the whopping 6 minutes idling. I don't know if it subjective or if it was for real, but it seemed like idling become even better, smoother. Partly it could be because of cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor. But here comes tricky part:
1) It again died when I decided to give it a ride right after I started to move. summertime sadness intensifies :( Overall I it drove around the neighborhood for a good 30-40 minutes, sometimes stopping for a few minutes, sometimes accelerating hard. During that time it died just 5 times (including the first one after 6 minute idle) and had that "one-time stutter" during acceleration two or three times. So the problem is still there, but it's MUUUUUCH better now. But... it's actually weird, because of the next part.
2) OBD2 tool still does not see any data coming from the CAM sensors, as if I haven't changed them at all. And it still throws the same (P0008, P0009, P0016 and P0017) errors sometimes. But why then it become much better - dying 10 times less frequently - if computer still does not see any data as if like nothing changed?

What I suspect?
So I'm quite puzzled now. I said that already - that's why I decided to ask for the forum crowd wisdom.
As of now I can suspect:
1) Somewhat bad ECM (PCM, ECU - engine computer) or wiring. I checked all of the connectors when I changed the CAM sensors, but all of them looked perfect inside. Also I checked ECM connectors - they are MASSIVE but they also look perfect. Checked ground where I can see it - it looks surprisingly good given the age of the car. Also I checked voltage (on the main positive wire near the distribution box and body ground) with multimeter when car is idling and with engine shut off - nothing weird. Voltage stays more or less flat.
1.a) maybe something wrong with some of the connectors, but it's unlikely since all of the look good, and problem seems to be to wide and distributed to be linked to some one connector. Except maybe for the main PCM harness, but I checked it and it looks good.
2) Actually timing chain issues. I certainly have some electric gremlins, but it seems that it's possible that there is real timing chain issue ON TOP of the electrical problems.

What I plan to do next?
So far I'm leaning towards ordering a new PCM. It's just 176 bucks with free shipping. And it's a breeze to change it - just two clips holding it in place and two main connectors. And it's super easily accessible. It should come pre-flashed with the latest firmware and my car's VIN. So the only thing left is to bind my old keys. It's actually should be quite easy, albeit it's a long process - you have to turn on the ignition and wait 10 minutes. Then turn off. Rinse and repeat 3 times.

If that doesn't help, at least we'll need to see where it leads us - will the TB odd behavior be fixed? Will data stream from the CAM sensors return? If answer to all of the questions will be "NO", then likely there is something with wiring or something else. I don't know where to dig next in that case. If the answers will be "YES", but issue will persist, then it's likely chain. I'd like to avoid doing the timing chain work, but if it's inevitable, then, I guess I'll have to do it anyways. Few days of good weather, some stock of spare hard language and likely I'll be able to change it, not having any spare parts left along the way hopefully :)



So the grand question to you guys - what do you thing of all of that long story? Am I missing something? Any ideas? Any advice?
Thanks!
 

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tim, You have an absolute mess and have approached this backwards. Whenever you have mechanical issues, you need to fix them FIRST. Remember mechanical issues WILL cause electrical issues, but electrical issues WILL NOT cause mechanical issues. With that mileage, oil volume and black condition, along with cam position codes, you have a worn timing chain. The problem here is the lower end (Crankshaft & bearings) of that engine is most likely badly worn as well. I have no idea how much money you have in this mess, but you better be prepared to throw a LOT more money into it. Even with you being able to do a lot of the work yourself and getting parts at a good price, I can't believe you will ever be ahead of the game. Don't buy a new ECU or any other electrical parts UNTIL you correct all of your mechanical issues. I don't believe you needed those camshaft position sensors. Thousands of oxygen sensors get replaced for doing their job because people don't diagnose the issue correctly. Checking connectors and electrical connections is fine as was the cleaning of the throttle body, but stop throwing parts at it UNTIL you have a mechanically sound engine. I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but I really do feel sorry for the position you are in. I think it's time to cut your loses. Good luck.
 

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2010 Buick enclave 2CXL, 2007 GMC Acadia SLT-2
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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
tim, You have an absolute mess and have approached this backwards. Whenever you have mechanical issues, you need to fix them FIRST. Remember mechanical issues WILL cause electrical issues, but electrical issues WILL NOT cause mechanical issues. With that mileage, oil volume and black condition, along with cam position codes, you have a worn timing chain. The problem here is the lower end (Crankshaft & bearings) of that engine is most likely badly worn as well. I have no idea how much money you have in this mess, but you better be prepared to throw a LOT more money into it. Even with you being able to do a lot of the work yourself and getting parts at a good price, I can't believe you will ever be ahead of the game. Don't buy a new ECU or any other electrical parts UNTIL you correct all of your mechanical issues. I don't believe you needed those camshaft position sensors. Thousands of oxygen sensors get replaced for doing their job because people don't diagnose the issue correctly. Checking connectors and electrical connections is fine as was the cleaning of the throttle body, but stop throwing parts at it UNTIL you have a mechanically sound engine. I know this is not what you wanted to hear, but I really do feel sorry for the position you are in. I think it's time to cut your loses. Good luck.
Thanks for the reply.
Why are you so sure that it's a chain? The engine sounds normal when it runs both on idle and during acceleration.
Also how do I diagnose the bearing and crankshaft? Also what would be the drawbacks of leaving "lower end" as it is and just replacing the chain?
Also - that weird throttle body behavior can't come from any mechanical issues. It's clearly electrical.
 

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You stated the vehicle has 163k miles, very dirty and low oil as well as engine noises. It's obvious the previous owner(s) did not maintain the vehicle very well by those conditions. When oil gets dirty and low, metal wears much more quickly. The fact that replacing the cam sensors did not correct anything. When a chain stretches' it's going to set cam codes, which you have. The old saying, when it looks like a duck, walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it's probably a duck. To properly check the lower end, the engine would need to be torn down and inspected, again a COSTLY job. The drawback to just doing the timing chain is, how would you like to spend the time and money on replacing the timing chain AND related parts only to have it spin a bearing 2 months later and handed a really big bill for an engine overhaul or rebuilt engine. Again, knowing what we know now, this COULD, but may not turn into a massive money pit.
 

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2010 Buick enclave 2CXL, 2007 GMC Acadia SLT-2
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You stated the vehicle has 163k miles, very dirty and low oil as well as engine noises. It's obvious the previous owner(s) did not maintain the vehicle very well by those conditions. When oil gets dirty and low, metal wears much more quickly. The fact that replacing the cam sensors did not correct anything. When a chain stretches' it's going to set cam codes, which you have. The old saying, when it looks like a duck, walks like a duck and quacks like a duck, it's probably a duck. To properly check the lower end, the engine would need to be torn down and inspected, again a COSTLY job. The drawback to just doing the timing chain is, how would you like to spend the time and money on replacing the timing chain AND related parts only to have it spin a bearing 2 months later and handed a really big bill for an engine overhaul or rebuilt engine. Again, knowing what we know now, this COULD, but may not turn into a massive money pit.
Ok, yes, I get it that almost everything screams that it's a chain issue. But... why that TB odd behavior and why ECU does not see any CAM sensor data? That's some clearly electrical issues and unrelated to mechanics. Am I wrong here?
Also why it just shuts off the engine? Is it common symptom of bad chain? I've heard about symptoms like noises, whining, jerking and constant hesitation. But here main symptom is that it just dies quitely.
Also my scan tool does not show any misfires at all. 0. Over the whole time.
 

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tim, I have to admit, you are a hard sell. First, no one can diagnose your vehicle over the internet as you have too many issues to resolve. I believe and I COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG, but I don't think so. Your engine has not been properly maintained and with 163k on the clock, it does not have a lot of life left in it. That being said, if true you are throwing a LOT of money away. Believe me, I HOPE I AM WRONG. Again if your timing chain is worn, you can replace every single electrical component on the vehicle and it is NOT GOING TO RUN RIGHT. That's really all I can say other than good luck and please let us know what the outcome of this is.
 

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2010 Buick enclave 2CXL, 2007 GMC Acadia SLT-2
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
tim, I have to admit, you are a hard sell. First, no one can diagnose your vehicle over the internet as you have too many issues to resolve. I believe and I COULD BE COMPLETELY WRONG, but I don't think so. Your engine has not been properly maintained and with 163k on the clock, it does not have a lot of life left in it. That being said, if true you are throwing a LOT of money away. Believe me, I HOPE I AM WRONG. Again if your timing chain is worn, you can replace every single electrical component on the vehicle and it is NOT GOING TO RUN RIGHT. That's really all I can say other than good luck and please let us know what the outcome of this is.
Yeah, I have that bit of an aries stubbornness. :) Sorry about that. I certainly appreciate your (and everybody elses) time and completely understand that nobody will diagnose it perfectly over the internet. Down from where I come we have a saying, something like "dentist can't treat teeth over the internet" so I completely agree with you.
Yes, I will definitely update the thread after any updates or resolutions.
Right now I have one quick update. Tried to collect a bit more data today, driving it around house. It become worse. Especially while driving, it felt that it was "trying to die" time to time but then recovered. And that happened quite frequently. And funny thing (not actually) - I noticed that it clicks door locks when this happens. Like it tries to unlock them or something. I believe that also might be symptom of some wiring issues. But, I have doubt's that it's engine control modules' responsibility to unlock the doors.
 

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Only if that vehicle unlocks the doors when the engine is shut off, which some vehicles do. I'm not sure if yours is programmed to do that. The engine ECU sends the unlock signal to the BCM (Body Control Module) when it detects the engine shutting down.
 

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Hi. Hello everyone. I'm happy owner of 07 Acadia for a almost two years now and have been reading acadia and this forums for a while now. It helped a lot to fix all my issues. But now, I become a happy owner of 2010 Enclave. And there is few issues I was unable to understand and hence resolve, so I'd like to try to call for a forums wisdom. Also it may help future generations of readers after all :) Thanks in advance guys!

So what we have?
In short:
163k miles 2010 Enclave. Stalling engine, timing chain codes, no data stream from CAM sensors.
Detailed version. Bought used as is with some engine issues. It seems that last few years under the last owner was quite rough. Oil was dark black and there was just 2.5 quarts of it in the engine when I drained it to change.
The main problem - engine starts, when starting there is a bit of a strange noise (My 07 Acadia sounds a bit different when starts) for just half-second, but then it's running good for... 30-90 seconds. And then just shuts off. Without any special effects like strange sounds, dash lights, revs going up or down. Just like if you shut it off with key. Quietly, peacefully and smoothly revs just drop to zero all of a sudden. Ignition stays on after that. I can start it up again like normal. Sometimes it goes for a minute or two, but not too long overall. I am able to drive it for a few minutes. But it tends to stall again when I stop. Also sometimes there is big hesitation happening when accelerating or just cruising. I'm not sure if "hesitation" is correct word, but I'll explain. So it accelerates pretty good, but then all of a sudden for just a mere moment (less then a second) it kinda loses power almost it looks like it's going to stall, but then it "wakes" up and continues as normal. If that happens, it only happens once during the acceleration event. It's not like it is doing this multiple time in any given minute. Also few times it died even while cruising at small speed (like 5-10 mph).
Of course there was check engine light and I happen to have pretty good OBD2 scanner (Autel AP200 (or Walmart's version - HyperTough HT200) - can't recommend it enough, for just 40-70 bucks it gives you MOST of the functions of dealer level tools). So after initial check I saw a LOT of different stored issues. But mostly it was related to the low battery voltage occurring historically. Like window motor calibrations etc. And there was P0008 and P0009 (engine position systems), as well as P0016 and P0017 (intake/exhaust CAM sensors bank 1) errors in regard to the engine. That got me alarmed. I reset everything to start from scratch and obviously after few runs MIL light came once again, and there was the same set of engine errors (no other errors though). So... starting to dig the forum. Yes, first thing everybody is talking about is timing chain issues and replacement. Ouch. But not so fast - there is good chance that the problem is with just sensors themselves. Very good evidence for this comes from the OBD2 live data - everything regarding CAM sensors is dead - no signals, no data, no nothing. Also they are much cheaper and comparably easier to change so I decided to go this way first. Spoiler alert - unfortunately it's not the end and it's more complicated.

What I have done so far?
In short:
Cleaned throttle body and MAF, changed CAM sensors. Discovered some other weird issues. It's much better, but still not right.
In detail: Ordered all 4 CAM sensors. While waiting for them - changed air filter (I changed oil and oil filter first thing in the first day). Cleaned MAF sensor and throttle body. But, when I tried to adapt/relearn it via OBD2 I noticed very odd behavior. With ignition on, but engine not running when commanded manually any degree from the scan tool it goes there, but sometimes it seems like it just loses power and it flaps back to neutral state by it's internal spring. This happens for a mere split second and then it goes back up to the commanded state. Also it seems to have higher then usual high pitched whining noise when commanded states higher than 30%. AFAIK such a sound usually comes from inductors when they are overloaded/don't have enough voltage/too much amps - hmmm, that's strange. Since I have 07 Acadia too I checked behavior there (handy, isn't it? :) ) - maybe it's supposed to act like that? And no, it was acting as expected - commanded 50% - it stays all the time at 50% open. Indefinitely. Command to 100% - stays like that for as long as you command that state. And there is high pitch noise, but to much lesser extent. Next step I removed throttle body from Acadia cleaning it along the way and connected it to Buick, and yes - i triple checked, they are identical and interchangeable. Aaaand, moment of truth - is it bad throttle body (easy-peasy fix) or something else (e.g. wiring, PCM, gods mood etc). And unfortunately it's something else because known good TB acted the same weird way on the Buick. Summertime sadness :( Here is the video of it acting. Sorry, it's on another language, but I basically describe all of the above in it. July 17, 2022
Ok, so it's clearly something wrong with either wiring, engine PCM (ECM, ECU) or something else. Since I already had sensors on order decided to give it a try too. It took some time (and some hard words) to get to them, but finally I changed all of them with a new ones. What I noticed on this step - one of old sensors had marks/scuffs on it. It seems something mechanical actually hit it inside the engine. So timing chain might be real issue? Here is the photos: 3 new items by Tim Yoshi
Ok, so... what new sensors gave us? Hm... actually more questions than answers. With new CAM sensors it started fine, and worked for the whopping 6 minutes idling. I don't know if it subjective or if it was for real, but it seemed like idling become even better, smoother. Partly it could be because of cleaned throttle body and MAF sensor. But here comes tricky part:
1) It again died when I decided to give it a ride right after I started to move. summertime sadness intensifies :( Overall I it drove around the neighborhood for a good 30-40 minutes, sometimes stopping for a few minutes, sometimes accelerating hard. During that time it died just 5 times (including the first one after 6 minute idle) and had that "one-time stutter" during acceleration two or three times. So the problem is still there, but it's MUUUUUCH better now. But... it's actually weird, because of the next part.
2) OBD2 tool still does not see any data coming from the CAM sensors, as if I haven't changed them at all. And it still throws the same (P0008, P0009, P0016 and P0017) errors sometimes. But why then it become much better - dying 10 times less frequently - if computer still does not see any data as if like nothing changed?

What I suspect?
So I'm quite puzzled now. I said that already - that's why I decided to ask for the forum crowd wisdom.
As of now I can suspect:
1) Somewhat bad ECM (PCM, ECU - engine computer) or wiring. I checked all of the connectors when I changed the CAM sensors, but all of them looked perfect inside. Also I checked ECM connectors - they are MASSIVE but they also look perfect. Checked ground where I can see it - it looks surprisingly good given the age of the car. Also I checked voltage (on the main positive wire near the distribution box and body ground) with multimeter when car is idling and with engine shut off - nothing weird. Voltage stays more or less flat.
1.a) maybe something wrong with some of the connectors, but it's unlikely since all of the look good, and problem seems to be to wide and distributed to be linked to some one connector. Except maybe for the main PCM harness, but I checked it and it looks good.
2) Actually timing chain issues. I certainly have some electric gremlins, but it seems that it's possible that there is real timing chain issue ON TOP of the electrical problems.

What I plan to do next?
So far I'm leaning towards ordering a new PCM. It's just 176 bucks with free shipping. And it's a breeze to change it - just two clips holding it in place and two main connectors. And it's super easily accessible. It should come pre-flashed with the latest firmware and my car's VIN. So the only thing left is to bind my old keys. It's actually should be quite easy, albeit it's a long process - you have to turn on the ignition and wait 10 minutes. Then turn off. Rinse and repeat 3 times.

If that doesn't help, at least we'll need to see where it leads us - will the TB odd behavior be fixed? Will data stream from the CAM sensors return? If answer to all of the questions will be "NO", then likely there is something with wiring or something else. I don't know where to dig next in that case. If the answers will be "YES", but issue will persist, then it's likely chain. I'd like to avoid doing the timing chain work, but if it's inevitable, then, I guess I'll have to do it anyways. Few days of good weather, some stock of spare hard language and likely I'll be able to change it, not having any spare parts left along the way hopefully :)



So the grand question to you guys - what do you thing of all of that long story? Am I missing something? Any ideas? Any advice?
Thanks!
Hello, Have same model, sounds like a ground issue, check rear cylinder head, standing in front of vehicle it will be rightside of rear head, just below valve cover sealing surface, hard to find, might be one at other end of head,10mm hex bolt, very easy to to forget when valve cover gaskets replaced! If not the problem? If you can start it and run long enough to get your hands on main engine harness, on upper intake wiggle it, pull it, especially near cam sensors, and fuse box, good luck hope this helps you.
 

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2010 Buick enclave 2CXL, 2007 GMC Acadia SLT-2
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello, Have same model, sounds like a ground issue, check rear cylinder head, standing in front of vehicle it will be rightside of rear head, just below valve cover sealing surface, hard to find, might be one at other end of head,10mm hex bolt, very easy to to forget when valve cover gaskets replaced! If not the problem? If you can start it and run long enough to get your hands on main engine harness, on upper intake wiggle it, pull it, especially near cam sensors, and fuse box, good luck hope this helps you.
Thanks for the input! Will try tomorrow. Was planning on careful detailed checking of electrical harness anyway so your advice come just in time along the way. Thanks!

Not much of an updates on my end. Been very busy with job.
Noted that ECM diagnostic is missing A LOT of data from various sensors. They are just not present in the output at all, like if this model didn't had them. But in fact they are present on the vehicle. Like it completely ignores MAP sensor and intake pressure sensors. And many others. I just compared the output to my 07 Acadia - the list is much shorter on the Enclave. So yeah, there is definitely something going on with ECM/wiring. Will be working on that over the weekend.
 

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2010 Buick enclave 2CXL, 2007 GMC Acadia SLT-2
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hello, Have same model, sounds like a ground issue, check rear cylinder head, standing in front of vehicle it will be rightside of rear head, just below valve cover sealing surface, hard to find, might be one at other end of head,10mm hex bolt, very easy to to forget when valve cover gaskets replaced! If not the problem? If you can start it and run long enough to get your hands on main engine harness, on upper intake wiggle it, pull it, especially near cam sensors, and fuse box, good luck hope this helps you.
By the way, forgot to say - when I changed CAM sensors, I had to remove the electrical fuse box. Along the way I thoroughly cleaned (it was quite clean actually, but just in case) main positive terminal from alternator. And inspected all the connectors and fuse box itself. Everything looked good. Also of course I inspected connectors when I changed the CAM sensors. Everything also looked OK.
 

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By the way, forgot to say - when I changed CAM sensors, I had to remove the electrical fuse box. Along the way I thoroughly cleaned (it was quite clean actually, but just in case) main positive terminal from alternator. And inspected all the connectors and fuse box itself. Everything looked good. Also of course I inspected connectors when I changed the CAM sensors. Everything also looked OK.
Also had removed my fuse box, recommend used dielectric grease on bulkhead connectors under box, also nut and bolted them to fuse box, but definitely check other first, keep me posted.
 

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tim, As for your lack of live data coming from some of your sensors. That may be a scan tool issue and not a fault with the vehicle. Are you getting any communication fault codes? If the engine ECU does not receive data from any engine sensor, it will flag a fault code pertaining to that sensor. As for your ground circuit, perform an accurate voltage drop test using a quality DVOM. Start with the battery to a clean spot on the block or cylinder head and continue with any ground points you can locate. It should not exceed 0.5V at any point. Good luck.
 
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