2011 Buick Enclave CXL 2wd no power after replacing timing chains and crank shaft sensor

7334 Views 27 Replies 7 Participants Last post by road326sailor, 3 d ago

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · May 1, 2020

Hi, I'm new to the forum and am in desperate need of some help. I had a master ase certified technician replace the timing chains in my Buick. It has 153,000 miles on it. The chains had stretched but not jumped time. After the install the car would not run right. It just don't have any power. The code it had indicated a bad crankshaft Position Sensor. So he replaced it. It didn't make any change to how the car run. Any ideas or things that needs to be checked at this point? Any and all advice is greatly appreciated.

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electbc

· #2 · May 3, 2020 (Edited)

I hate when that happens, you replace something and the vehicle doesn't run right. Assuming that the mechanic did everything correctly, maybe the new crankshaft sensor is defective, maybe there is a loose connection from all that work done. Possibly just a loose ground, but a lot of forum members have stated problem emulating from the engine compartment fuse box, when it is disturbed. Sometimes the connections are not solid, make sure the connections there are good and tight.
After that, just check your VVT Solenoids , make sure the screens are clean and that they operate with a 9V battery while you have them out.
Here is the wiring to those components. Adobe Acrobat

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #3 · May 3, 2020

That makes sense. My problem is the car run bad and needed timing chains and gears. The car was still in time and the chains had only stretched not jumped timing. My technician replaced every part related to the timing. He then said it run exactly the same after that. He scanned again and the Crankshaft Position Sensor indicated to be bad so he replaced it. The code cleared but NO change in how the car run. He borrowed his better scanner from the dealership and now he wants to put a High Pressure Fuel pump on it. I've had to order one because one nobody around me stocks them and 2, there very expensive. To sum it up, the car just won't hardly run due to the lack of power. The car runs weak but doesn't have a check engine light or any codes set. Every part put on the car is AcDelco parts. If you have any ideas, please help me. Thanks

electbc

· #4 · May 3, 2020

What is the reason that he is replacing the HP Fuel Pump? Did he get a code on it? Did he read low pressures with the scanner? Dont start replacing more parts which may not be needed. Check the VVTs before you do anything else.

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #5 · May 4, 2020

electbc said:
What is the reason that he is replacing the HP Fuel Pump? Did he get a code on it? Did he read low pressures with the scanner? Dont start replacing more parts which may not be needed. Check the VVTs before you do anything else.

He said he tested the High Pressure Fuel Pump and the pressure was low. I'm not sure of the method that was used to test the pump. Looks like I will order 1 and hope it fixes it. Thanks for your assistance.

electbc

· #6 · May 4, 2020

That is a tough component to check. It is a closed system with no check points on it, high pressure piping and fittings throughout. If you disassemble anything on it you must replace it with a new part. The only way I know to check is with the scanner, my scanner shows around 500psi at idle, 1800psi on the highway.

electbc

· #7 · May 4, 2020

Here is a explanation of the High Pressure System and the direct injection system.

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 9, 2020

Ok, I need professional help very bad. The car would not hardly run and the codes said timing chains so my technician replaced them. Car run exactly the same, very bad. So code indicated bad crankshaft Position sensor. He replaced it. Car still bearly runs (exactly the same before he touched it. With a scanner the high pressure fuel pump showed low fuel pressure. He put one on it. Now the car runs just a tad bit better but still very bad. The car won't run good or long enough to drive to check with scanner or set codes. He's let it run on the lift to simulate driving it to use the scanner on it. It still runs very bad and dies. Please help with how to proceed with it.

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #9 · May 9, 2020

Sorry but also, I don't think any part he has replaced is bad or the car is out of timing because the car don't have a check engine light or setting any codes now and with everything he's done to the car, it runs exactly the same

electbc

· #10 · May 10, 2020

Have either you or the mechanic checked the Variable Valve Timing solenoids? Take them out and clean the screens. While they are out check to see if they operate with a 9 volt battery. Maybe a little time consuming to get at but easily the cause of your engines woes. Check youtube for a video on them on a traverse,enclave or acadia, there is probably one out there.

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #11 · May 10, 2020

I will have him to check them. What's the chance it could be running like it is because of the Reluctor Wheel moving that GM has a TSB on?

electbc

· #12 · May 10, 2020 (Edited)

OIC on the cam phasers. They would have/ should have been checked when the covers were off. Check those VVT solenoids and if necessary, after that, the intake valves for carbon buildup.

Kirk Nolin

· #13 · May 18, 2020

electbc said:
I hate when that happens, you replace something and the vehicle doesn't run right. Assuming that the mechanic did everything correctly, maybe the new crankshaft sensor is defective, maybe there is a loose connection from all that work done. Possibly just a loose ground, but a lot of forum members have stated problem emulating from the engine compartment fuse box, when it is disturbed. Sometimes the connections are not solid, make sure the connections there are good and tight.
After that, just check your VVT Solenoids , make sure the screens are clean and that they operate with a 9V battery while you have them out.
Here is the wiring to those components. Adobe Acrobat

I have a 2010 that does the same thing so far different fuse box ow and high pressure fuel pump cleaned the gas tank new fuel rail pressure sensor mechanic said ecu may be bad ordered a re programs ecu now got code p0633 called the reprogramming people they sent me a different ecu telling me that if the timing chains are not set perfect you will keep getting codes the car never ran right after the mechanic installed the timing chains it acted like old school timing that was retarded very sluggish on acceleration I explained to the mechanic the timing issues and he said we would try the reprogrammed ecu first when he was trying to reprogram the ecu the battery went dead on the car therefore might be the cause of the 633 code where can I buy dynamite cheep lol 😝

electbc

· #14 · May 19, 2020

Clean your screens before you go the dynamite route.

Waywoos

· #15 · May 22, 2020

After replacing crank sensor aren’t you suppose to teach them?
Just a thought.

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #16 · May 28, 2020

Ok. So the saga with the 2011 Buick Enclave CXL not having any power and would not run after replacing the timing chains and a ton of other things the technician had me to buy. When he first put the chains in he sent me a message saying that the chains are in but the car still won't run. The first thing I asked him is had he checked the catalytic converters? He never replied so I assumed he had. He kept coming to me to buy parts for the car. So after having the car for about 2 months I asked him again if he had checked the catalytic converters? About an hour later he sent me a picture of one stopped completely up. He said there bad. So he said after market catalytic converters would be fine. So I get the car back and the check engine light is on. I checked the codes and it was P0430 & P0420. I took it today to a muffler shop to test the Converters. It had a bad exhaust leak at one of the Converters. He said I needed 02 sensors. So he put 4 new Bosch sensors in it and cleared the codes. Before I got home the check engine light was back on. Does anyone have any ideas for me to try. It's been about 15 years ago when I was a master ASE technician but I've retired. So I can work on cars, but I'm just lost on the newer cars. I'm thinking it may be the cheap converters he put on it, but I want to know for sure before I replace any more parts.
Thank you in advance.

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Kirk Nolin

· #17 · May 28, 2020

Kkillerclown said:
anyone have any ideas for me to try. It's been about 15 years ago when I was a master ASE technician but I've retired. So I can work on cars, but I'm

Kirk Nolin

· #18 · May 28, 2020

I have had really bad luck with cheep parts on the internet bad fuel injectors fan motors etc my enclave is still in the shop and I’m sure it’s because I put the cheeper parts on it timing chains,injectors,fuel regulators etc if I had it to do over again I would use oem parts I may never get the car out of the shop my advise to y’all is to go the extra buck

Kkillerclown

Discussion Starter · #19 · May 28, 2020

Every part that he put on the car was AC Delco. Only thing that wasn't is the catalytic converters and the Bosch 02 sensors. The car runs absolutely great. It just sets the same codes everytime I replace what I'm being told to buy for it. I just don't know what else to do. I'm at this point I don't trust anyone around here to work on it. I think it may still have an exhaust leak or the cheap converters are the problem. I'm going to smoke test the exhaust this weekend and go from there.

electbc

· #20 · May 28, 2020

So do you know if the latest codes are the P420/430?

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