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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I've had the the truck like a week, it has 124k miles. A few days ago I started getting all these msgs and it wouldn't run right after start up in the morning and backing out the driveway. Rpms would show 0 even though it was running, also the check engine light had come on. I couldn't drive it. After like 30 seconds of looking up the issue on my phone with the truck off I found that a 15 second wait would reset the issue and it did. It started and all errors were gone. Yesterday(2 days later)I had the same issue when starting it in the morning and going into reverse only this time the 15 second thing had no effect. It wouldn't stop running though even though I was still getting the errors. On the highway the speedo would drop to zero then back up to the correct mph also the info display would blank out and turn off the cruise control, pretty much all the gauges would zero out then go back up except the tach. Idk what's going on. Just spent 10k in insurance money on what now seems to b a pos. Did I mention the the power steering leaks, which I knew when I bought it, that I can deal with. Since then found out the ac leaks into the cabin. And now it isn't a reliable vehicle less than a week after spending 10k on it.

-please help!
 

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If you bought it from a dealer less than a week ago take it back and demand it be fixed or you want to return it.

If you're stuck with it, good luck. Sounds like you've got a real basket case to sort out. I'd start by checking the battery voltage because a low battery will cause all kinds of issues. If that's good check the terminals (actually take them off, clean everything, put them back on good and tight). If it's still acting up now you have to move on to the more complicated stuff.

Water getting in behind the glove box and shorting out the wires around the BCM or the BCM itself.
Bad grounds in the engine compartment.

The power steering leak should have been a red flag that made you walk away. When you see relatively minor things wrong on a used car, don't walk, RUN away. If they aren't fixing the easy stuff it tells you a lot about the kind of service history a vehicle has had.
 

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Sometimes those codes get thrown as a generic for a faulty Mass Air Flow sensor, also
 

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I had a 08 which while I was driving home one night I had a bunch of things like that happen, I also had an airbag warning. I drove 120 miles with no speedometer, Tach, gas gauge, voltmeter, odometer and radio. Got home, shut it off and it didn't start, next day it started.
My problem was traced to the connector for the side airbag under the passenger seat. There had been a recall on the the connectors, to repair them, and then a subsequent one to eliminate the connector.
I performed the recall work on the passenger side myself and my issue went away.
Check to see if yours is included and had the recall done.

 

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Your communications bus is probably being interrupted. We had that when, believe it or not, there was a small hole in one of the headlights. When we went through a car wash, water would get in and then short out the module at the headlight and interrupt communication. This would set a ton of codes and cause odd things like the door locks locking multiple times as we drove, gauges going crazy, limp mode, etc. It probably is an easy fix, but you need to trace it. Be patient, and I think you’ll end up being OK.
 

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I've had the the truck like a week, it has 124k miles. A few days ago I started getting all these msgs and it wouldn't run right after start up in the morning and backing out the driveway. Rpms would show 0 even though it was running, also the check engine light had come on. I couldn't drive it. After like 30 seconds of looking up the issue on my phone with the truck off I found that a 15 second wait would reset the issue and it did. It started and all errors were gone. Yesterday(2 days later)I had the same issue when starting it in the morning and going into reverse only this time the 15 second thing had no effect. It wouldn't stop running though even though I was still getting the errors. On the highway the speedo would drop to zero then back up to the correct mph also the info display would blank out and turn off the cruise control, pretty much all the gauges would zero out then go back up except the tach. Idk what's going on. Just spent 10k in insurance money on what now seems to b a pos. Did I mention the the power steering leaks, which I knew when I bought it, that I can deal with. Since then found out the ac leaks into the cabin. And now it isn't a reliable vehicle less than a week after spending 10k on it.

-please help!
Yea sounds like faulty wiring or a bad cluster. Could be an easy fix. Take it to a Buick dealership and get it diagnosed. I'm a DIY type of guy and have done all the work on my vehicle myself but sometimes a diagnostic could save time and headache not to mention money. Most of the time certain issues have already been seen.
 

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I would be absolutely shocked if a dealership could fix this on even the 2nd or 3rd try. Dealership techs generally are terrible. They read a code and throw a part at it. Repeat until eventually the problem goes away, then swear that all the parts they replaced without addressing the issue “needed” to be replaced too. They don’t care that their “troubleshooting” method costs you thousands.
 

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This is all very good advice. Check the 2 screws that hold the main fuse box (under the hood, passenger side). Tighten them up a little. Don’t over tighten.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The problems went completely away for a day but have returned. Now, it gives traction control off and on over and over while driving and the speedo still goes back and forth. Also itll rev to like 3k rpms and then shift hard into the next gear no matter how far the accelerator is pressed. Going up a bridge today it was staying at 2k rpm going like 60mph, eventually I had the pedal to the floor and it was still showing 2k rpm. Idk what to do at this point.
 

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Change the M.A.F.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The bolts in the fuse box and all battery connections were good but now the battery is dead going to charge overnight. Don't know how much work I'm gonna be able to do on it tomorrow there is a blizzard coming to Texas tonight.
 

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Has any aftermarket devices been installed or added to the truck? LEDs, Dashcams etc. ? Modules are very finnicky when to comes to load on them. If your modules stay awake your battery will drain. Even something as LED backup lamps can cause an issue. I know you feel you bought a Lemon, you bought someone else's headache which the dealer couldn't figure out.
Where does the A/C leak into the cabin? There is a fuse box up behind the glovebox which may cause issues if water gets up in there.
Check your throttle body, make sure it is clean and free.
Do you have a code reader? I use a Bluedriver connected to a smartphone VIA bluetooth. You should read the CEL and let us know what codes are present as well as historically. You can also go to Autozone or Advance and they can read codes for you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I believe there is an aftermarket alarm with a blue light that is mounted to the dash that flashes but thats it.

The leak i hear is from inside the vents, it happened more when stopped at a light or idling with the ac on.

I havent been able to check the throttle body yet but it normally idles well at like 600 or a little higher.

I have a code reader but don't think its working right.

Could this all be due to a dying battery? I charged it over night and it started with no errors at all. Using a multimeter, the charging voltage was 16+. After only an hour with the engine off the battery voltage was at 12.24. Now another hour later its at 12.17 and will not start again. It is 31f right now but I need a new battery.
 

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Yup you need a new battery, 12.2 is borderline dead, during the summer your vehicle will probably start, during the winter probably not. Most modern vehicles with all their electronic wizardry don’t like to see a low battery and will often spit out random codes and have electrical issues.

Once your new battery is installed make sure that the alternator is charging properly, you should see between 13.8-14.4 on the battery terminals with the vehicle running. Often an alternator will die and of course the battery looses its charge so the battery gets replaced and 3 days later the new battery is dead.

From your description it sounds like it’s just your battery but it doesn’t hurt to be sure.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Okay, so three weeks ago I replaced the battery. On the way to work today the speedo started going back and forth from 0 to actual speed like it had before shortly after it stalled. This was only a few hw miles from the house.

Mm shows they are 12.4 or so but won't even try turning it over. After charging over 13.6 they show 12.17 after turning to crank. They won't turn it over. Its on the side of the road rn. Hoping leaving the battery disconnected resets the ecu or something idfk. The new agm battery on the charger but again mm shows its 12.6 till after its connected to the leads. Smh
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Just to wrap this thread up. A couple weeks later it just died on the highway and wouldnt start. Me and a couple other mechanics couldnt find the problem. We did verify the starter was good replaced the ignition switch. I enfed up bringing it to the dealer they said it was a bad connector and had to replace the engine harness, $2600. About a week after i replaced the lower engine mount and about a week later it wouldnt start outside the store, after a few tries it did start. I drove it home and tightenrf the battery cables, I havent had a problem since then.
 

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Thanks for posting the fix. Hope it continues to work good. So it's sounding like the harness was bad combined with the battery terminals not tight enough.
 
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