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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't changed oil in years but $100 for an oil change with synthetic oil, I'm thinking I can save $70 by doing myself. How hard is it. Where is the drain plug located and can it be reached without having to put the car on a lift. Can the oil filter be reached from underneath?
 

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I haven't changed oil in years but $100 for an oil change with synthetic oil, I'm thinking I can save $70 by doing myself. How hard is it. Where is the drain plug located and can it be reached without having to put the car on a lift. Can the oil filter be reached from underneath?
Changing oil is easy on the Enclave but you need ramps. The drain plug is easily accessible under the vehicle, just look up the location on Google images.

The filter is slightly a pain as its tight working space in front of the engine. You have to feel the nipple down there and it's slightly at an angle. Trying to thread it on there is slightly difficult especially with any oil prefilled the filter. Once you've done it once, you'll know exactly how to maneuver your hand.

Good luck!

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how high do the remps need to be?
Standard ramps. I use Rhino gear ramps, you can get them for around $50 off Amazon.

Get a oil filter wrench (I use the wrench style and not the strap kind- only $5) as well to break loose the filter and again to tighten the new one Screw down the filter with your hand as tight as you can then give it a nice snug turn with the wrench. Make sure to put a little oil on the oil filters rubber gasket with your finger before installing.

Because the nipple down there is slightly angled up (oil filter opening will slightly face down), you can't fill your oil filter completely with oil before putting it on or it will pour out making a mess. Just pour about 1/4 of a quart inside it and it will soak most of it up.

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Being a 2015- its the same as my 2010.
I guess im lucky. I do not need to use ramps to drain my oil. (2010 Traverse- which is the same as your Enclave).
I guess im thin enough I can reach the drain plug etc.
The oil filter comes up from above.
I have now performed about 32 or so oil changes on my 2010.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok i found a set of rhino ramps with a creeper for $20 and they have only been used twice and look to be new. Is that a good deal? I probably didn't need ramps 30 years ago but the beer adds up!

Also, I change the cabin filter every year, the dealer wants $50 plus part and $115 for full synthetic oil change. The dealer also says I need to do a bunch of maintenance for $1700. I'm right at 45,000 miles.

My break pedal started making the squeaking noise right after I got the car so I told the dealer and they changed the master cylinder I think it was but not sure. they want to change the brake fluid but I would have thought they would done that when they fixed the brakes. Thanks to this forum for provising the knowledge to realize the issue before the factory warrentry expired.

I found a deal on amazon for a AC delco filter set (engine air + cabin) for $24 on amazon so I'm going to change the air filter every year too.

Anything else I should do while I'm at it?.
 

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ahhhh. the beer belly.
I had beer when I was 18. I have not had another been since-- im now 46.

$115 for syn oil change!!!!! WOW!
Once you do it yourself-- I guess with the money saved you can buy plenty more beer?

What other maintenance they selling (for $1700)?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
flush the coolant, service the transmission, throttle body adjustment, change PS fluid, service the evap emission system plus a bunch or checks they say it needs oh and rotate and balance the tires I replaced last year.
 

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flush the coolant, service the transmission, throttle body adjustment, change PS fluid, service the evap emission system plus a bunch or checks they say it needs oh and rotate and balance the tires I replaced last year.
I wouldnt have a dealer do those unless its included under a package deal you purchased...unless you enjoy them robbing you. Find a local reputable shop for a trans fluid change. I wouldnt recommend flushes IMO for that or coolant. It just ends up dislodging more debris which can cause more issues later. Just have the fluids drained and replaced.

The evap service is simply a money grab. If you have no issues with it, dont let them take your money.

Changing the cabin filter and engine air filter is as simple as it gets and takes 5-10 minutes MAX. Another typical dealer money grab.

Do what the maintanance schedule asks for but call a few reputable shops first. You'd be surprised on the money you will save for simple changes like that.

For $20 pick them ramps up!! They are excellent ramps and makes oil changes a breeze. You have to be small guy to get under there without any ramps lol.

Also, make sure you check your oil levels every other fill up. Buicks eat oil and Buick states 2 quarts is acceptable to lose between 6k oil changes. Ridiculous I know but the timing chain is essential you have enough oil in there and most if not all 3.6 eat oil.



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Discussion Starter #11
Ok the dealer has a bunch of services listed as needed. I question the break fluid flushing since they just replaced the master Cylindar and they show fluid listed.

What do you think about the changing the transmission fluid. They want $189 to do that. Do they do a filter or something with that? I know my mechanic used to say not to change the fluid in the 350's cause the new fluid would harm the bands and when I did have it changed, I had to have the transmission rebuilt soon after.

I've read bad reviews on the Rhino ramps about them cracking and failing. Have you seen this to be an issue?

I did the air filter and cabin filter myself. Anything else you think I should do at 50K?
 

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If they tell you theyre going to change your transmission oil and FILTER--run fast.
The transmission in your vehicle has a lifetime filter. That means it only gets replaced- when the transmission is taken apart.
To take apart- you have to drop the entire engine/trans cradle. then trans is split open in half- then they remove more parts to get to filter.
Since you have 36,000 based on your signature...you may want to wait- and buy some Dexron VI on sale. Stock up.

What I recommend you do- is simply do a drain and refill.
Draining the trans fluid is actually easier to do than oil- since the little bolt is closer to the front.
Trans takes 11 qts- but when you drain - only 5 or so quarts drain, the rest remains in the tq converter and lines.
You refill with new Dexron VI fluid. the goal is to maintain the fluid fresh and clean.

Here are the mileage intervals Ive done a drain/refill
The amount of money I spent on Trans fluid- between 50K and 110K--- is close to what it cost to do a full fluid swap at 100K. (most shops want to do flushes after 100K).
But- if you wait till 100K- the fluid is dark and dirty. Id prefer to have clean- fresh fluid circulating throughout the life of trans.

50,464
50,883
79,147
79,657
80,441
100,000
110,000
128,000
140,000
143,775

Heres my HOW TO.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for your reply Rbarrios and for the detailed Tranny fluid change procedure. I have a couple of questions. The mark you put on the plug. I didn't follow that. What was that for? Did you screw the plug back in until the mark lines up and turn 45 degrees. Would counting the number of turns for removal be better? When you refill the bottles why not just pour back through a funnel or am I missing something. How would they remove the fluid in the shop to get it all out?

I'm not so sure about this dealer because they want to do the spark plugs at 50K for $490 and it looks like GM says 100K. They also want to add a fuel dryer for $50. is this just a bottle of stuff i can buy or is there some special equipment or procedure they have to do?
 

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The little drain plug- I marked it so that I knew where it was originally.
But upon removal- it has some type of thread locker/thread sealer.
So now I just turn until I begin to feel a little resistance--- and then snug it.. and sure enough the lines I made- are pretty close to each other
Ive done all the drains- and mine still does not leak from that bolt.

(someone on one of the forums- actually kept tightening- all the way..... I believe he ended up with a little leak.)

You could try to count. but Im sure youd lose your place if you dont mark it somehow. (reference point).

I now have a funnel for refilling the bottle.

Shops- do 2 methods--
a FLUSH--- where they add in a detergent of some sort- that helps remove varnish etc. the problem with this- is that it also dislodges crud. which can open up a can of worms.
the other method is the machine they hook up- essentially pushes in new trans fluid--- and on the other end- the old fluid comes out-
I believe they essentially pump in new fluid- till the fluid on the other end comes out clean/clear.

Fuel dryer... they suspect you have water in the tank?

if so--- HEET can be bought at WalMart.

 

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Discussion Starter #15
No they don't suspect water in the tank. It's an addon every oil change. But I did ask and its an ethanol additive. I guess a way to make more money. I'm familiar with Heet didn't know if AC delco had one.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks Rbarrios for all of your information. It is much appreciated. I read your how to's carefully. Thanks for taking the time to post!
 

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Think I would find another place to do the maintenance on my Buick. I used to take mine to the local GM dealer, but it got to be too expensive, in my mind. So I found a Ford dealership that had a Quick Lane and I use them, now. I use nothing but GM parts on my car and they can get them. My full synthetic oil change runs me about $70 with tire rotation .If there is an electronic component on your car, there is no adjustment on it. So the throttle body adjust is BS. Most of the other services that they try to sell are just ways of getting into your wallet. Check your owner's manual to see what needs to be done and when, stick to it. Most people don't know what is needed for their vehicle and don't know that all that information is in your owner's manual. Find yourself a reputable dealer and stay with them. I have been in the auto business since 1973 and it is getting harder to find people who know what they are talking about.
 

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I recently changed the oil in my 2014 enclave. Until now it had been done at the dealership where I bought it as I purchased a 2 year service contract (bought Dec 2016). I used some ramps I borrowed from a friend. That made it somewhat difficult to change the filter as the car was much higher due to ramps. I used a small step ladder to change the filter. As with all oil changes you need to clean up anything the oil gets on but I think it’s more important in the Buick as the oil runs out from filter over a bushing. I do believe it’s a motor mount.

I installed a Fram Ultra XG10575 filter and used Castrol Edge full synthetic oil. I’ve used Castrol for years in my other cars. Its a quality product and is relatively inexpensive when bought in a 5 quart jug. You’ll need to buy two your first time as the Enclave requires 6 quarts but then you have extra for any oil usage and next oil changes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
does castrol have the correct certification? I thought the new GM oil was hard to find except for Mobil 1
 

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does castrol have the correct certification? I thought the new GM oil was hard to find except for Mobil 1

Yes Castrol Edge is dexos approved. The other versions of Castrol did not have the logo. I switched to Castrol in 2006 and have never had any issues in my GM cars. The reason I switched was due to our machine shop switching to castrol for all of our machines. All of them ran better and our tooling life tripled. Superior products although a bit spendy.

6307
 
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