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GoldEnclave said:
It turns out that the rear sway bar links are bad. The dealer is ordering the parts, and I will take the car back for installation next week (due to my restrictive work schedule). The charge will be about $489 complete.
:popcorn: :scared:
 

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I suppose that the independent garage that I've used would be a bit less expensive, but the parts that they use have frequently been inferior. As a result, I've lost trust in any garage except my dealers' garages. The extra cost is worth the peace of mind and lack of repeat repairs, in my opinion.

P.S. Take into account that the prices in North and Central NJ, for virtually everything, is high compared to most other regions of the U.S..
 

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GoldEnclave said:
I suppose that the independent garage that I've used would be a bit less expensive, but the parts that they use have frequently been inferior. As a result, I've lost trust in any garage except my dealers' garages. The extra cost is worth the peace of mind and lack of repeat repairs, in my opinion.

P.S. Take into account that the prices in North and Central NJ, for virtually everything, is high compared to most other regions of the U.S..
. The way that the GM dealers are bugs me....everything is expensive, but I used to get oil changes at Bloomfield BMW for $54.95. The joke of it was It costs $70 to DIY and at the time my friend was paying $140 for the same in Greenwich, CT. and they gave a free loaner. I asked why they did that, and the SA said we lose money on the oil alone, but we want all your service business. At least they want to earn the business. There are so few Buick dealers that they don't seem to care one way or another about customers, and again my experience is limited to 4 dealers, but how far from home are we going to go.....so I hate to pay them anything....
 

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One of the few automotive related products or services that is actually relatively inexpensive in NJ is gasoline. But, with repeated gasoline tax hike discussions, I'd be surprised if we keep that advantage for very long.
 

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Well, I'm bringing in my Enclave tomorrow morning for its rear sway bar link replacement service. I was advised that the wait will likely be about 2 hours, so I'm tempted to request a test drive of an AWD Regal. At about $35,000, it is a few thousand dollars more than a comparable Subaru Outback, but I want to give Buick a chance. I'll post feedback if I actually test drive one tomorrow.
 

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GoldEnclave said:
Well, I'm bringing in my Enclave tomorrow morning for its rear sway bar link replacement service. I was advised that the wait will likely be about 2 hours, so I'm tempted to request a test drive of an AWD Regal. At about $35,000, it is a few thousand dollars more than a comparable Subaru Outback, but I want to give Buick a chance. I'll post feedback if I actually test drive one tomorrow.
imho it's tough to judge objectively when you go from an older car to a brand new one. It's like shopping for groceries when you're hungry.

What would be cool is if you could take a Regal out, and then head to the VW dealer and take out a GTI. I drove the Regal GS and headed right back for the dealership because imho it was so feelingless, not to mention the sticker was 43k. I paid 1,700 more than that plus tax, for my BMW twin turbo coupe, so I cannot part with that much on a car like that....

Or take out a WRX. Admittedly, my love affair with Subaru was very brief, it looks dreadful even though I wanted it not to.

Luckily, I had that 2015 GTI for 4 days on co. business, I got to drive something I actually enjoyed on an extended test drive. Yes, I would love a Cayman S, but folks told me you think BMW is expensive, wait til you service your Porsche (I remember when I had my friend's car, $500+ for a thermostat on a new car, claimed it's not covered...what?).

I can't believe I'm a grown a** man and all I can aspire to is a (new) GTI, strange, very strange. My wife says it's not strange, you have a baby, need a new house, and a BMW in the garage that never gets driven. :binky:
 

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I'm not looking for a fun ride, just a pleasant and reliable AWD vehicle. I'm probably not going to seriously consider a Regal, and now that I'm at the dealer I'm probably not going to even bother to test drive the Regal due to the "old vs. new" and the "grocery shopping while hungry" factors. I don't want to tease myself when in not even planning to be in the market for another year.
 

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GoldEnclave said:
I'm not looking for a fun ride, just a pleasant and reliable AWD vehicle. I'm probably not going to seriously consider a Regal, and now that I'm at the dealer I'm probably not going to even bother to test drive the Regal due to the "old vs. new" and the "grocery shopping while hungry" factors. I don't want to tease myself when in not even planning to be in the market for another year.
You know what I did wish would happen, is that Cadillac offers $100 to test drive. I would like to drive both the ATS and CTS.

Again, the XTS felt like quality, until you looked closely. I'm sure the ATS and CTS would be similar, but they are RWD. I would specifically want a RWD, not an AWD.

But I bet, the next time the $100 offer comes in, once again it will be Buick and/or Chevy, and there is nothing by those makes to drive. Buick is out of models for me to try, and Chevy doesn't make anything worth the time (Corvette is not incl. in the offer, if I remember)
 

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Not only did the repair proceed seamlessly, but also the price was reduced from the estimated $489 to $335! I'm a happy camper! :thumb:
 

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:dancing:
 

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I will be checking the clunk coming out of my rear end :happy:, also I would like to add that I had always operated under the policy that if you are a do-it-yourself mechanic, buy American or Toyota's because their parts are cheaper and easier to find. If you are not a do-it-yourself mechanic, it is always better on the long run to buy either a Honda, or German with extended warranty because for the same price, you get your cars worked on without getting dirty.

Moog or Federal Mogul will be my only choice for suspension parts because they use the same part for both daily drivers and competition. I like the idea of getting racing parts for my daily driver, always had good luck with them. I felt tears in my eyes when I heard their factory caught fire that one year....
 

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johnny772084 said:
I had always operated under the policy that if you are a do-it-yourself mechanic, buy American or Toyota's because their parts are cheaper and easier to find. If you are not a do-it-yourself mechanic, it is always better on the long run to buy either a Honda, or German with extended warranty because for the same price, you get your cars worked on without getting dirty.
I wouldn't have disagreed until a) I bought a BMW new b) I bought a GM new

Still have both of the above plus my 1998 Nissan.

The GM is not cheap for parts, nor is the service cheap from what I've seen here.

I've paid BMW 2X for brake fluid flushes (I believe they do it right, all 4 calipers). First was $120, second was $160, 20% coupons so a little off. they offer loaners--are those prices higher than GM? Oil changes, from $60 to $80, 7 qts full synth ($8/qt. online price), again, free loaner, is that high? maint was included for 4 years.

Tires, 255/35-18 rear and 225/40-18 front, are these much more than the Enclaves tires? Not really, yet they are rated for 186 mph, whereas the Enclaves are 112 mph.

I'm surprised, to say the least, as to how expensive Mr Goodwrench service is. If we're going to pay BMW prices, we might as well drive BMWs, is the way I see it.....(3k for a/c repairs, steering racks, blah blah blah)

My BMW has been out of extended warranty for almost 2 years, and I got nothing out of the extended warranty. I work on it myself, although without a lift there are some things I probably will not attempt, such as the water pump. Oil I am beginning to do myself--I could not figure out a way around the $8/qt which is why I waited so long. But I am going to start using Mobil 1 0w40 Euro from Walmart, which is LL-01 approved, so here I go Here I go again on my own. Goin' down the only road I've ever known. Like a drifter I was born to walk alone. An' I've made up my mind, I ain't wasting no more time...
 

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John070, well put, thanks for the input, we all learn something new everyday. I should reassess my opinion to better catch up with the current market. I am lucky enough to own vehicles that were cheaper in parts from GM (truck based, i.e. S-10 with 4.3L V-6 back in '98).
 

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My clunking is the rear upper control arm bushing. We are in the process of replacing the complete upper control arms on both sides.
The lower connection came off easily but the top bolt appears to be 'frozen', rusted, into the steel sleeve of the bushing and with the rubber of the bushing is not really there and the whole thing turns. We have soaked it good with a penetrating oil hoping for good results.

Had the same type of noises, only on bumpier surfaces, so onto a hoist or could be done with a jack, and by grabbing the top and bottom of the tire there was 'play' in the joint.
Not the worst job, but not as easy as it could be if the bolts would just come out.
The work continues.
Rick
 

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The local GM dealer said, if they don't come out easily, cut them out and put in new ones.
I used a sawsall and two blades.
New bolts are about $50 a piece. :banghead:
Once all this is done, off it goes for an alignment.
Rick
 

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Picked up the car tonight and it has never rode so nice. Well worth fixing.
All the suspension noise now gone from back and front.
Quick recap, the rear upper control arms and the front lower control arms on both sides replaced. The front control arms included the ball joints. A four wheel alignment was done and as I said, it rides like a charm. :blob: :cheers:
Rick
 
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