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Discussion Starter #1

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It's been around for a while, and Seafoam also has had the same type of product for a couple of years now.

I haven't used either product but I have viewed some YouTube videos that showed before/after borescope videos of the tops of pistons after using Seafoam. The best results was obtained by pouring the Seafoam directly on top of the piston through the spark plug hole and allowing it to sit for 20 minutes. The engine was then turned over with all of the spark plugs still out so that the Seafoam was ejected from the cylinders.
 

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The you tube video shows spraying directly into the throttle body with the engine running. Three Questions:
1. Will the computer throw a code even with the MAF connected but the inlet hose disconnected?
2. Will the computer make throttle body butterfly be open up during this procedure?
3. If this procedure does no harm, why not use this procedure to clean the throttle body with the proper cleaner?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
dzs3fz said:
The you tube video shows spraying directly into the throttle body with the engine running. Three Questions:
1. Will the computer throw a code even with the MAF connected but the inlet hose disconnected?
2. Will the computer make throttle body butterfly be open up during this procedure?
3. If this procedure does no harm, why not use this procedure to clean the throttle body with the proper cleaner?

1)I dont believe it will throw the code with the inlet hose disconnected from the AIR filter enclosure.
2)The computer should be controlling the butterfly-- since the person behind the wheel- is applying enough gas-- to get the RPMs slightly below 3500 RPMs
3)to me its just easier to remove the hose- engine off- and apply the cleaner to the area that needs to be free moving--- the sides of the butterfly


For #3...
When I removed the intake manifold to do the plugs--- the TB comes off with it- and thats when I was able to view how the air flows thru the TB and into the intake... to me- it was apparent that simply cleaning the area around the moving part was enough...
 

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I used this product last Fall. Worked like a charm. My deposits weren't terrible, as I have always run an oil catch can and synthetic oil to minimize oil vapors into the intake.


Follow the instructions and it works great. I pulled the intake manifold off to do spark plugs and the valves looked very clean. My fuel mileage increased, engine idle improved, and throttle response was better. Overall, I would recommend to anyone to do this. It's cheap enough and easy enough that it should be done every 50,000 miles.
 

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I used the CRC on both my cars with the 3.6L DI a few years ago. Don't know if it worked but I never any issues with either engine (2010 Enclave and a 2008 Cadillac STS). Both vehicles are gone now with over 80K miles on each
 

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Discussion Starter #7
did more digging, since then, its now up to 46% removal on the 1st application.

my 2010 Traverse-- now at 128,000..... no issues with carbon buildup causing severe issues.

Last week- on cold morning drives- the 1st 3 miles- at red lights I could feel a few misfires and see the needle move just a little.
The vehicle also felt heavier on acceleration... like response was slower.
Scanner revealed 2 or 3 misfires- not severe enough to set CEL.....
I think that after 128,000 miles- maybe the carbon buildup on the valves was finally causing the few misfires on cold engine.
So I bought a can and applied the product. Its on sale at NAPA- and a $5 coupon----
I also cleaned the MAF sensor (had NEVER been cleaned).
Also cleaned the Throttle body (as I do every oil change).


The engine appears to have a better response... does not feel heavy as it did last week. But ill see how it continues to operate. For $10... ill gladly try it.
I didnt notice any blips on the tach this morning
Not expecting the product to remove all the carbon buildup (which I saw at 100,000 when I changed plugs)-- but at least remove some that may have been causing the blips.




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