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Discussion Starter #1
Looks like I cant even get a solid month of trouble free issues with this darn Enclave and its EXTREMELY irritating.

So went for a ride today with the family, and while driving along, we hear what sounds like someone pressed the open lock button. Wife has both hands on the wheel, and my hands were no where near the door panel. I look to see, and notice the drivers door lock has popped up. All other locks are down. We continue driving, and then we hear ALL the locks pop up. We stop in a parking lot, and remove the key, and can STILL hear the locks sound like they're popping up - what the **** is going on with this stupid car??

I read that locking issues can be a result of the battery, but since we were driving when this happened, how can it be the battery? One would think its at full charge as its moving - and no battery indicator, and voltage meter seems normal. So we lock it up with the fob, and go about our business... come back some hours later, and start driving home. AGAIN as we start the vehicle, the locks go crazy again, like someone is pressing the UNLOCK button multiple times. This happens even when we're driving. About 5 minutes in, I decided to manually press the door lock button (as the doors unlocked while driving) and it locked, and stayed locked for the 10 minute drive home. Park in driveway, take the key out, and pop pop pop pop goes the locks again...........

Anyone know whats going on here? Thanks guys....
 

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Sounds to me You may have to reprogram your settings Take a look in your manual for instructions on how to

:confused: :beer:
 

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Did you have a remote in your pocket or wife's purse, I have locked and unlocked the doors and set of the horn with the remote in a pocket.
 

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I had this once in another branded vehicle. Every time we went over a bump, the horn would honk and the doors would unlock. It was the BCM. Good luck on your hunt to find the solution.
 

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A friend has a 2008 Infinity that was having radio problems, turning off. I checked for codes throughout and there was a battery code in the Powertrain module. A P15xx code, can't remember the last two digits.

So I checked the battery. The static voltage was 12.3v after relieving the surface charge, had the key on for a couple minutes then waited a couple min. That means the battery was weak, about 50%. It should be around 12.6 or so.

He put in a new battery and problem solved. Not saying this will fix it but there is a chance.

A car battery is like a capacitor in that it can stabilize the voltage spikes. Some cars control units can be sensitive to this fluctuation.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
@oldman - No, no extra remote being carried, as this is mostly driven by my wife, I leave the spare remote and key at home. My wife said she went through the DIC settings, and change something, and it fixed it for a few days, but seems to have come back again. I currently have the locks to open/close when moving the trans in/out of park, but as said, the locks triggering happens while in motion.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey everyone this is the wife here :) so not only are the locks going up and down (sometimes it seems it is only the drivers side door lock opening and closing on its own but not always) now the lights are flashing on the vehicle for no apparent reason. Also sometimes when you put the key close to the ignition (not completely in it triggers the locks to go crazy) I guess a trip to the dealer may be in order but thought i would see if anyone has any ideas Uncle Buick is usually good at trying to tackle things on his own if it is possible and I don't mind helping him.

Thanks in advance everyone.
 

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Problem with the BCM (body control module) most likely. Could be as simple as a bad ground causing the BCM to get a little less than the proper voltage, a wire that's chaffed and is grounding somewhere (common on the my 05 GTO where the BCM harness would rub against a metal brace behind the glove box) or just a bad sensor that's shorting out. Could also be a bad BCM itself. Unfortunately this is going to be really difficult to troubleshoot for your average DIY'er.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I can start with the BCM.

Google says its under the drivers side dash, to the left of the column... not sure what I'm gonna find there, but I'll have a look.
 

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You can change it pretty easily but it has to be programed to your vehicle. We use salvage parts for this and a mobile reflash fellow to come over and flash it. You will have to ask someone that does that to see if the module will take a reflash as some only flash once. I think the single flash types are older units.

I found some at car-part.com under "computer box not engine"

I think you are in Canada and that can be searched too or just call a local salvage yard and they can order one for you.
 

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I wouldn't start by swapping the BCM. Far more likely to be an issue with a shorting component or wiring that's causing issues for the BCM.

Some background on troubleshooting a BCM issue on my 05 GTO. Every once and a while I'd hop in the car and when I turned the key it wouldn't start. Then as the key went from the start position to run all **** would break loose. Gauges sweeping their full range and door locks triggering constantly. Try the key a few times and it would start up and be fine for weeks. Dealer replaced the ignition switch, problem remained and they had no idea. Took it to another dealer and they set about tracing wires. When they opened up the loom under the battery tray the wires inside were a corroded mess. They replaced that section and the issue never returned for the next 6 years I daily drove it.

Further back story, GTO's were prone to having battery issues where the batteries would leak. People speculated it was because they came via boat from Australia, would get badly discharged during the trip, then dealers would blast them with a fast charge. IMO it was the fact that Delco batteries are garbage. Regardless, mine did leak. I pulled the battery and battery tray, repainted the tray and cleaned everything up. Some of that mess must have got down inside the wiring loom though. Everything looked fine from the outside. This is why I said it would be a PITA to troubleshoot. Someone had to take the time and start running continuity tests on all the systems leading to or from the BCM. To do that requires knowledge of the entire car's wiring schematic, something incredibly complicated in a modern vehicle with literally 1000's of wires running all over. That repair ended up costing me $300 and that was probably the best $300 I've ever spent at a dealership.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thanks for the posts guys, but heres a little update:

I haven't troubleshooted anything yet, however I did give my wife the OTHER remote key fob that we usually keep in the house as a spare, and surprisingly for the next 4 days or so, she reported that it was NO LONGER acting up!

So, I replaced the battery in the main remote and gave it back to her, and its been another 5 days or so, and I haven't heard anything about it...... I can't believe something as simple as a stupid dead battery in the remote fob would be causing this? I and a bit skeptical that its actually fix, and will be very pleasantly surprised if thats all it was, but again only time will tell. Hopefully if anyone ever runs into the same situation, try the remote fob battery first!
 

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I'm extremely sceptical too since most cars disable the fob buttons when the car is running. I'll have to confirm if the Enclave does or not next time I'm in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
UPDATE: this may not be just the battery, but it still may be linked to the car fob. So I didn't realize because the wife swapped fobs again, but even with the new battery, a few days later she said it was still doing it... so she swapped to the other fob again, and all seems well... so maybe something is wrong with my fob.
 
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