In the process of planning to drop the power train cradle in my 09 Enclave. Doing this in my house garage. Saw several videos. Looks like I can raise the front end 26-30" to clear rolling the engine our the side wheel wells using furniture dollies.
To the point...
What to replace if I decide to do this?? Where at 136K. I have the sewing machine rattle at cold start and believe my cam actuators require replacement. No engine lights on DIC, or pending. Have oil leak under the power steering reservoir on the radiator side of engine down low. Believe this to be timing engine cover seal (could be the oil filter adaptor plate however)
Items already done...
- Waveplate
- CV shaft replaced on one side and the other I did the boot before the joint failed
- plugs
- coils done between 40-70K
- water pump at 50K under warranty
- a/c seals around 60k under warranty
- power steering upper rack seal bracket ~ 80k under warranty
- brake master cylinder around 60k which leaked into booster
- front struts ~110K
- PVC hole mod
- power steering pump under warranty
- engine mounts @ 70K
I"m sure there are more items.
Not getting into why I"m dropping the engine in this post. Thats in another location.
Planning to replace
- timing chains via kit w related seals and guides
- chain job will correct rtv seal on timing cover
- My LCA bushings are cracking. plan those here
- 4 cradle bolts w cradle bushings
- Steering rack bushes to get rid the the annoying thud every time we turn the wheel under low speed conditions (issue since 35K)
- both valve cover gaskets.
- oil pick up gasket located inside oil pan.
The obvious re-alignment and A/C evac and charge (I do those myself in the garage - story for another post. The self alignment is an interesting story. I've confirmed my adjustments are as good as 2 other shops here in town I camparred against)
I'm not throwing codes for timing or engine stuff. So was planning on leaving the 4 cam solnoids/sensors. I believe I can replace those later if they fail w the engine in the car - unless someone says its a pita and I should do it now.
Going to install a raybestos external tranny filter like I did on my f150 while I"m at it
Oil filter adaptor and/or seal?
THere was mention a while ago about steering pump return line to be replaced w a larger one? Do it here? is it worth it?
Certainly will look over suspension quite closely at this point. Any other bushes known to fail after 100K?
My valve stems are getting carboned up. Did the top engine cleaning after I took and posted pix on this board - added to Rbarrios's posts for tech back up a while ago. Will certainly see the valves again here and then can validate the top end cleaning is snake oil or not. Maybe good for me to get the brass or stainless bristle bushes on a drill and reem those bad boys out at this time as well. I have a hand held sand blaster. Not sure if I should get walnutshells and do it that way.
Thoughts? Planning job for January if my reasoning is proven true to pull the motor in the first place
To the point...
What to replace if I decide to do this?? Where at 136K. I have the sewing machine rattle at cold start and believe my cam actuators require replacement. No engine lights on DIC, or pending. Have oil leak under the power steering reservoir on the radiator side of engine down low. Believe this to be timing engine cover seal (could be the oil filter adaptor plate however)
Items already done...
- Waveplate
- CV shaft replaced on one side and the other I did the boot before the joint failed
- plugs
- coils done between 40-70K
- water pump at 50K under warranty
- a/c seals around 60k under warranty
- power steering upper rack seal bracket ~ 80k under warranty
- brake master cylinder around 60k which leaked into booster
- front struts ~110K
- PVC hole mod
- power steering pump under warranty
- engine mounts @ 70K
I"m sure there are more items.
Not getting into why I"m dropping the engine in this post. Thats in another location.
Planning to replace
- timing chains via kit w related seals and guides
- chain job will correct rtv seal on timing cover
- My LCA bushings are cracking. plan those here
- 4 cradle bolts w cradle bushings
- Steering rack bushes to get rid the the annoying thud every time we turn the wheel under low speed conditions (issue since 35K)
- both valve cover gaskets.
- oil pick up gasket located inside oil pan.
The obvious re-alignment and A/C evac and charge (I do those myself in the garage - story for another post. The self alignment is an interesting story. I've confirmed my adjustments are as good as 2 other shops here in town I camparred against)
I'm not throwing codes for timing or engine stuff. So was planning on leaving the 4 cam solnoids/sensors. I believe I can replace those later if they fail w the engine in the car - unless someone says its a pita and I should do it now.
Going to install a raybestos external tranny filter like I did on my f150 while I"m at it
Oil filter adaptor and/or seal?
THere was mention a while ago about steering pump return line to be replaced w a larger one? Do it here? is it worth it?
Certainly will look over suspension quite closely at this point. Any other bushes known to fail after 100K?
My valve stems are getting carboned up. Did the top engine cleaning after I took and posted pix on this board - added to Rbarrios's posts for tech back up a while ago. Will certainly see the valves again here and then can validate the top end cleaning is snake oil or not. Maybe good for me to get the brass or stainless bristle bushes on a drill and reem those bad boys out at this time as well. I have a hand held sand blaster. Not sure if I should get walnutshells and do it that way.
Thoughts? Planning job for January if my reasoning is proven true to pull the motor in the first place