[DIYwhynot]

In the process of planning to drop the power train cradle in my 09 Enclave. Doing this in my house garage. Saw several videos. Looks like I can raise the front end 26-30" to clear rolling the engine our the side wheel wells using furniture dollies.

To the point...

What to replace if I decide to do this?? Where at 136K. I have the sewing machine rattle at cold start and believe my cam actuators require replacement. No engine lights on DIC, or pending. Have oil leak under the power steering reservoir on the radiator side of engine down low. Believe this to be timing engine cover seal (could be the oil filter adaptor plate however)

Items already done...
- Waveplate
- CV shaft replaced on one side and the other I did the boot before the joint failed
- plugs
- coils done between 40-70K
- water pump at 50K under warranty
- a/c seals around 60k under warranty
- power steering upper rack seal bracket ~ 80k under warranty
- brake master cylinder around 60k which leaked into booster
- front struts ~110K
- PVC hole mod
- power steering pump under warranty
- engine mounts @ 70K

I"m sure there are more items.

Not getting into why I"m dropping the engine in this post. Thats in another location.

Planning to replace
- timing chains via kit w related seals and guides
- chain job will correct rtv seal on timing cover
- My LCA bushings are cracking. plan those here
- 4 cradle bolts w cradle bushings
- Steering rack bushes to get rid the the annoying thud every time we turn the wheel under low speed conditions (issue since 35K)
- both valve cover gaskets.
- oil pick up gasket located inside oil pan.


The obvious re-alignment and A/C evac and charge (I do those myself in the garage - story for another post. The self alignment is an interesting story. I've confirmed my adjustments are as good as 2 other shops here in town I camparred against)

I'm not throwing codes for timing or engine stuff. So was planning on leaving the 4 cam solnoids/sensors. I believe I can replace those later if they fail w the engine in the car - unless someone says its a pita and I should do it now.

Going to install a raybestos external tranny filter like I did on my f150 while I"m at it


Oil filter adaptor and/or seal?

THere was mention a while ago about steering pump return line to be replaced w a larger one? Do it here? is it worth it?

Certainly will look over suspension quite closely at this point. Any other bushes known to fail after 100K?

My valve stems are getting carboned up. Did the top engine cleaning after I took and posted pix on this board - added to Rbarrios's posts for tech back up a while ago. Will certainly see the valves again here and then can validate the top end cleaning is snake oil or not. Maybe good for me to get the brass or stainless bristle bushes on a drill and reem those bad boys out at this time as well. I have a hand held sand blaster. Not sure if I should get walnutshells and do it that way.

Thoughts? Planning job for January if my reasoning is proven true to pull the motor in the first place

 

[rbarrios]

WOW!

You did say water pump was replaced at 50K, and youre now at 136K.
If you do remove engine-- I would just go ahead and replace the pump anyway.




But Chris Bruno on this forum-- dropped the engine cradle in his really nice garage...
and used furniture dollies..

 

[DIYwhynot]

Hello RB!

Thats the exact video I saw! That'll be me in January. I'll need to pull it out the drivers side however due to my garage set up.

Roger that on water pump.

Going to do serpentine belt (is tensioner a good idea?)

Planning to replace timing chain quides - does this make sense?

I've had some thunking while driving and believe its the cradle bushings - is this a common thing w this mileage? Did the wave plate years ago but did not replace the 4 cradle bolts. I think they are yeild bolts and was planning to replace

Cam actuator bolts were recommended to be replaced by parts guy yesterday when I was getting prices and p/ns. Said there's loctite on the threads.

Thnx

 

[rbarrios]

I have not seen the tensioner be a problem ... though I think I did see 1 post on the tensioner being a little difficult to remove.

In regards to timing chains.... Its a job Ive never done.
But if youre in there-- wonder if its just better to buy the kit and replace it all?

When I had a thunk- it was the front bushing.
This was replaced at 101,000. Tell tale sign-- black oil dripping from the front mount.

I do recall seeing a post on the cradle bolts being the yielding type and required replacement if theyre removed.

 

[DIYwhynot]

Researched part numbers. Be aware that I went to my local dealership to confirm part numbers using my vehicle's vin. THen I went on line to collaborate on some reputable GM dealership sites (the ones I have been ordering from for years). I was getting different p/n's. Will have this sorted out of course, but just do your homework on parts. I'm not posted p/ns until I get the parts in and I know they actually fit

Pricing:

~$195 for OEM timing chain kit (3 chains/tensioners, crankshaft seal and the 4 cam sensor/solenoid seals, valve cover gaskets and water pump gasket (interfaces w front cover and block only, not water pump directly)

Timing chain guides (have to buy six additional to the above kit if you want them all replaced) are about $10-15/ea Total of $78 for all six

Cam actuators are $55 for exhaust - both identical

Cam actuators for intake. R & L specific $62

Intake manifold gasket $19 (I've had this on and off at least 9 times - reused each time)

Serpentine belt $33

Serpentine tensioner $65

Oil pump pick up seal $3

Oil filter adaptor seal $3

LCA rear bushing $125

LCA front bushing (2 peice) $23 + $19

Ball joint $60

Steering rack bushing $7

Cradle bushings and bolts $196

Apparently the diagrams show doughnut seals on top of each spark plug tube. I'll get those along w RB's recommended waterpump and gasket

Here's a question? Timing? Old days were timing gun and rotate dizzy to adjust. How do we set timing in modern cars? Do the sensors do it for us?

 

[DIYwhynot]

Cars at 167K. Engine not pulled, but thank god I didn't, more problems w this car. Car's been a paper weight in garage for past 6 months. Took it to junkie, they only offered $500. KBB private sale value assume all works is around $6K. Looks like I'll pull the cradle after all next week and see if I can get it going again.

had been getting shuddering between gears. No tranny/engine/body codes during this time as its been getting worse. I pulled the TECHM. 3 membranes were failing - interesting, no tranny codes detected from my $200 bosch reader. Maybe a gm scanner would tell me more?. Bought/installed the membrane kit and no change. but it could still be the TCM electronics failing? I think the membrane brand was sommes?? From what i'd been reading, sounds like shudder caused from torque converter??? As I recall, shudder seemed to occur 25 and 45MPH range. I think I started a post on this. But I bought a tranny from at 2011? w less than 100k a while back. Assuming this has good wave plate. Will reuse valve body and TECHM from the 09.

I mothballed the car 6m ago bc a po497 light was coming on. I couldn't pass DFW EPA inspection. Not illegal to drive. And the AC compressors been blowing oil out the shaft seal (charged it a few times to limp a little longer). I didn't want it to seize and throw the serpentine belt on top of all this.

Downloaded the 08-10 service manual - thnx for the links Rbarrois

 

[rbarrios]

Around 144K, I noticed when i shifted from Park to Drive- it would take up to 3 seconds to engage.
Never got a CEL.
But I knew that meant the laminate discs in the TECHM.
I replaced them.
Shifting back to normal.
But yeah- I never got a CEL in regards to trans delayed engagement.