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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
battery

we’ve owned the car since 2010 at 9000 miles. battery dies about every 4.5 yrs. no warnings. just won’t start. i have to rescue my wife somewhere in dallas. so i pre-emptively replace at 4 yr intervals w oem battery. i do not use aftermarket as they usually corrode the terminals from dissimilar metal mismatch or won’t fit due to undersized posts.
 

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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
rear main oil seal

p/n 12637710

mine was not leaking

used a putty knife to aid getting the seal around the crankshaft

cleaned seal surface w MEK
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
transmission

replaced 167k tranny w junkyard 68k 2012 enclave tranny

replaced both axle seals. p/n 19258266 and 19258265. used a crow bar to gently pop out

torque converter to tranny interface. p/n 24249376. seal has metal edge. took a screw driverand hammer. lifted the outer edge the metal seal and popped out

tcm: reused 2009, redid membranes w sonnax kit 2 years ago.

followed sonnax electrical tcm solenoid test. they give “relaxed mode” spec range .5-10 ohm. then press membranes and they should go to “open”.

interesting is after depressing measurement, the “relaxed” remesurement changed each time i would press on the membrane and release. don’t know if this matters. sometimes it would go as high as 50ohms, but i would depress again then get 10 ohms. something to keep eye on....

i reused the valve assembly from the 2009 to ensure it would work w 2012 tranny

i reused the techm cover plate seal and connector seal. i had replaced these when i did the wave plate several years ago. still pliable.

had to jiggle the t-converter a little to get it back on.

tranny installed
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
replaced tranny bc 100k less, hoping to avoid rebuilding clutches on the 167k in near future.

68k tranny oil dirtier than expected. smelled normal. no unusual sediment bottom of tranny

assuming 68k tc will eliminate shudder problem
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
june bug in my oil pan!

reinstallated the oil pan last night. night time, garage open, w several flood lights. i’m sitting there a i catch a glimpse of a june bug wiz past my head. he managed to find that 1” open gap into my oil pan as my timing cover is off. he was rattling around in. there like a ping pong ball. caught him w a grappler.... what r the odds?...
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
xmission engine interface complete. tightened flywheel/torque converter bolts w oil pan off. wedged a screw driver between flywheel teeth and the drain feature casted into the bottom on the tranny

pan and engine mounts installed. since i didn’t remove manifold, bent the support tab (attached to oil pan via short bolt) over a little. greatly aided removal/installation of oil pan. bent back easily

starter installed. no issues.

oil adapter installed. no issues. i smeared a thin coat of rtv on both sides of the metal crush gasket. i don’t believe adaptor plate contributed to my exxon valdez leak. sure made getting to starter easier than removing exhaust manifold imo

nice to reassemble a cleaned engine. don’t need to wear gloves anymore

marking all bolts post torque

engines been laying out here for more than three months. i wasn’t in a hurry. reinstalled all bolts where i could to keep them in proper location and to not lose them. working well so far on reassembly
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
axles

r/l cvs reworked a while back. i replaced one w blown outer/clicking joint. the other i rebooted w oem boots - 167k miles, original. had to find extra wide boot bands to not distort the boots.

replaced intermediate shaft. i pulled it out and bearing was a little rough and noisy. new p/n 20899365. no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
timing chains & cam actuator/phaser

cloyes kit# 9-0753sx. chains, guides, tensioners. replaced per their video on website. very straight forward. don’t over think it. just watch their video. new oil pump came w quide installed for primary chain. only issue i had was the primary guide abve oil pump, bolts were stripping from hex head. i left the metal bracket in place and snapped on new guide plastic.

i did not use cam holding tools. marked cam lobes w sharpie when i rotatated i first and secondary positions. if i bumped something, i could realign. was amazingly easy

engine roates clockwise as viewing chains. used harmonic balancer to rotate.

i did have to rotate a cam here or there 1/3 a tooth to get the chains to match up tight. probably combination of wear and release of tensioners as i wiggled crank back and forth for fit

rotated engine 3-4x afterwards. all seemed good

i did not buy sprockets. they were very tight and rotated freely. don’t believe i needed them anyway

actuators.

we had bad sewing machine rattle at start up. would shut down and restart engine (reason i replaced starter preemptively - over use), then it was normal on second start. gas mileage seemed ok. stethoscope confirmed noise a two actuators. they seemed to be locked when i took chain off. so maybe was my oil pick up tube seal? slow back flowing oil filter when sitting a while, who knows. never got a light or code for it. we drove it that way for 20-30k

exhaust were both p/n 12684830. had l/r bank marks to be used either or

intake phaser l = 12684831. r = 12684830.

actuator pns seemed to change numbers over time. don’t be concerned. just get most recent per gm

actuators oem

placed wrench on the camshaft hex feature to hold while torquing actuator bolts. no issues
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
timing cover / solenoids

just installed cover. scraped/mek wiped surfaces

water pump all rubber seal between cover and block. pn 12691259. was pliable. i did not have coolant leak. assume good as installed by factory. was encased in rtv, so i goobered it back up.

cam pos. i left as is. easy to replace if i have a problem later

cam solenoids/seal. pn 12636176/12593717. seals were hard and needed to be replaced. solenoids appeared clean. the three screens on each were clear. again. we didn’t have sludge in engine. replaced solenoids bc i was there

main crank seal pn 12608750. rubber pliable. not sure if it was leaking
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
our car never threw a code for timing chain related issues. or known misfire not related to cop’s.

reason to do chain job was embarrassing oil leaks (assumed timing cover related) left where ever my wife parked car and sewing machine rattle at start up.

i’m really not sure if the car NEEDED chains replaced. we changed oil frequently. did not rely on oil monitor. however, severe oil leaks over the last 30k did get us low oil condition quite often as i had to remember to to check our on a car i never drove

it appeared tensioners still had room to expand to consume more slop to accommodate additional wear. i wish i would have measured the plunger shafts and documented

on average, the plastic guide skids were worn .012-.015”. measurements were not consistent. this was worse case in the middle of the guides. hopefully others will note this also to get indication of wear

certainly, the accumulation of chain link wear (imo, chain stretch is bs, but is link wear) and quide wear causes the timing to slowly drift away from optimum over time. having to slightly reposition cams during new chain installation leads me to believe this

last observation on the sprockets... i pulled out my 10x jewelers glass used in my FAL days. looked at the teeth to get idea of chain wear. there’s was some wear, not bad. i wasn’t compelled to change sprockets bc chain design was actually different. the contact surfaces of inside teeth of chain where geometrical in different locations from the old chain. ie... the chains don’t track the same grooves worn into sprockets. and i felt no wiggle to the sprockets , not rough spots during hand rotation

no way this engine will see another 167k miles. optimizing my cost to end of life ratio here
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
water pump / t-stat / water outlet

water pump pn 12657499. was replaced by dealer warranty at 50k. this one had 117k. no leaks. i assume newer versions of wp built better??. replaced bc it’s due. dealership used plenty of rtv on the metal crush gasket that came w the pump. i used water pump grade rtv on that seal as well. came w new bolts. i was easily able to hand hold pulley when torquing the pulley bolts. i had originally removed w impact. no issues

t-stat housing. pn 12689041, but also seen 12638893. years prior, one of my rubber lines from the t- stat housing to the firewall heater core blew. rebuilt them w new snap connections. last year of service, i had coolant puddle on top of tranny. i assumed it was t-stat housing/gasket. entire deal came as assembly, replaced as unit.

water outlet tube (above timing cover. replaced 2 seals. 1” round oring pn 12584040. trapezoid, weird shaped gasket pn 12690764. i rtv’d the trapezoid seal as it appeared to have been done previously
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
water pump. pn 12657499. came w new bolts and metal crush gasket. pump previously replaced under warranty 50k. now 167k, 117 k out of this one. go must have improved this. dealership rtv’d the metal crush gasket, so i did as well. pump was not leaking. replace bc it’s due

t-stat housing assy. 12689041. mine was leaking and pooling on top of tranny. assy cam w housing, stat and gasket. no issues. i rtv’d gasket.

water outlet aluminum tube. replaced both seals. 1” oring 12584040. bottom gasket w funky geometry pn 12690764. i rtv’d bottom funky gasket
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
serpentine belt pn 12608660

idler pulley pn 12610680. mine made a little noise and wobble down when rotated by hand. could have lasted another 50k imo

tensioner pn 12575509 as molded on casting, but appears 12626644 mightn’t cross ref. hand minor noise and wobble as compared by new when rotated by hand. cheap part = insurance

harmonic balancer pn 12697768. mine has minor rubber deterioration and separation. could have lasted. 30k plus, replaced while i was there. less than $50

balancer bolt pn 12608660. replaced bc yield bolt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
power steering rack

rack. variable steering. old pn 2587611, new pn 23271561.

originally wanted to replace the rack bushing only to get rid of the engineering’s design flaw of clunking bushings (ours began clunking low speed turning around 30-40k). scarred the crap out of my wife until i got under neath an figured it out when turning wheel side to side. there is some documentation on this problem. my dealership wouldn’t fix. i didn’t bother taking it to corporate.

next reason was to replace bellows bc dealership tech cut one when performing warranty on the rack years ago - i know they did it bc i did the axle the week prior and it was fine. it was cut the day after i picked it up for warranty. —. i complained, but they did nothing. i did not take the issue up the chain. at this point,i’m anti-dealership, only go in for warranty if i absolutely had to. i rarely purchase parts locally to support them.

decided on new rack to replace boots, bushings and inner joints. glad i did, i removed the bellows and fluid came out both sides. no failure. rack was ready.

outer tie pn 15869897. replaced bc a very heavy vehicle w lots of miles. closer examination, boots stress cracking. it was time. grease was not leaking yet.

i had no no clear evidence of tire wear to prove joints failing. replaced to cover myself

dex6 fluids to be installed
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
power steering

replaced pump pn 20954812 (wo pulley). mine was original. had the howling and dealer replaced seal/fluid under warranty years ago. wasn’t leaking that i could tell, but could have, exxon valdez disaster on that side of engine. if i did this again, just buy w a pulley. hastle to get the puller/installer. was not worth my time. placed the pump in the freezer andy pulley in oven, pressed in nicely

replaced high pressure hose from rack to pump. 2009’s had documention to covert to improved pn. i don’t recall recall cnet lies, was on my bucket list. pn 22912855

i kept all remaining hoses and cooler. however, i did replace oring pn 15869859 at the rack. the high pressure hose comes w oring. the outlet hose that goes to the cooler i had concern. it’s the oring that seals the outlet tube to the rack head.
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
cam/intake covers

camshaft cover gaskets pn 12641261 (firewall). pn 12607401 (front). spark plug tube seals pn 12607600. oil filler cap/tube orings 2x 24100002. intake cover seal pn 12673300

i power washed the inside of the cover to get the carbon off

the cover gaskets were still pliable, upon removal, they stress cracked. definitely ready to be replaced

oil filler tube/ cap orings were probably ok

oil tube seals were stiff. difficult for oil to leak out, probably just keep dirt out from above?. ready for replacement

intake gasket? couldn’t tell, just replaced

the pvc metal tube adaptor pressed into the rear cover,.... i did rbarrios’s drill out conversion a while back removed it for inspection. was very clean and holes wide don’t seem. i to collect oil in my filter snorkel
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
oil in spark plug wells....

i noticed oil in a couple of my plug wells when i last replaced my plugs. had a little more during this servicing. i dont believe i’ve had misfires from this condition since the oil is way below the ceramic insulator and boot.

read discussion of aluminum porosity allowing oil to leak through aluminum into well? imo, it’s the differences in metal of the cold rolled metal tubes pressed into the aluminum head. cte mismatch over time and thermal cycling have allowed leak paths for oil to migrate through. just a theory.

i had 5-10 drops of oil in the wells of cylinder 3&5. w valve cover off, you can see a 1/16” clearance between the tube and head casting.. oil sits in that gap. ive seen videos where people have pulled a vacuum to try and draw jb weld or something down in there. i cleaned out that space and forced oil-compatible rtv around my tubes for cyl 3&5. was careful to keep it the rtv in the gap only, no beading or over flash. curious if this will work. can’t say i recommend anyone do this. i’ll pull the rear cover in a year and inspect. curious if wells fill back up and if rtv stays put.

i only treated 3&5. these cylinder are farther away from the cams phasers and chain. if i’m wrong, i’m hoping old rtv would just drop into the oil pan. not like this car is worth over $5k anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
cam lobe wear....

i discovered some lobes have the shiny metal tarnished off at the point of the lobe. have 4 lobes. 1/8” to 3/8” patches. i took pics to monitor.

the followers are roller (affected rollers looked fine), dull spots feel smooth. i didnt feel like changing out the cams. i micrometered the lobes and couldn’t detect variation to the others

i probably caused this running oil down several time since the last 30k dealing w the exxon valdez oil leak out the side of the engine- i didn’t drive it so didn’t pay close attention. some could argue dino oil.... could be pick up tube ? i don’t know and another reason to open covers in a year when examining the plug tubes. possibly the sewing machine rattle was a sign of oil starvation at startup? anyway. good data for someone else to figure it out. say what you want... i’m saving this car from the junkyard - no reasonable person could make a financial case to keep this car and do all the repairs ive done. it’s a science project

a correlation is the same cylinders leak into the plug wells as do have worn lobes
 

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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Cooling system

hd radiator 23347009
radiator cap 15042975
upper/lower hoses 15294028/15294029
heater hoses 25862088/20765678

the old cooling fan assembly had squeaky rotation. i ordered a used assembly on ebay off a 2016 w 60k. old assy also had some shroud warpage from heat i assume as car has not been in accident

all when together fine
 
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