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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
filled coolant, p/s w dex6, tranny w dex6, oil was filled when engine completed

i reused tranny hoses.
hose to tranny seals 2x p/n 25874797 - these were trickier to locate
i used a hose to jumper the cooling lines. i did not connect the tubing to the radiator at this time bc wanted to do start up checks and instal external filter/cooler

no refurbish of fuel system. i should have pulled injectors and replaced seals

connected rest of harnesses, charged the battery and turned the key
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
start up.....

had 1.5yr old gas, tank was topped, so i didn’t have opportunity to add fresh fuel. engine fire up after a few cranks

immediate howl from p/s system. i did slowly turn the steering wheel stop to stop to pump fluid.

happy dance - engine running.....

i immediately began topping coolant, ps, tranny

brought engine to op temp several times. took 8+ cycle so to burp air from coolant.

p/s cap leaking fluid out of oring when i went side to side w steering wheel to burp air. this sucked, dex6 fluid now running down timing cover. cleaned all i could get to.

ps cap assy 20795354

front bumper/supports/wheel well covers still off

ac system not connected. cooling fans ran full speed all the time. i removed pressure switch off old liquid line and popped it into the engine hardness. fans now ru. as normal

i did have difficulty getting the air out of the cooling system. obvious tstat had air pocket. i was careful to run engine short intervals. grabbing hoses to burp air constantly. once i got pocket out of wp, i immediately felt hot water entering radiator
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 · (Edited)
tranny checks

bumper still off, wheels off

slowly shifted tranny through all gears at idle speed. axles turned as they should, both same direction and in unison. topped more dex6

happy dance.......

put in drive, gave it a little gas w wheels still off. the transmission locked up. i let off on gas and axles slowly turned again. at this point i’m thinking i got a bad tranny. i put the wheels back on, lower the car..... and it drives right out of the driveway. must be something w the differentials. my older 80’s car axles rotate when i do this, but in opposing directions

drove up/down driveway. resume happy dance

did 6 mini 3-5 min test drives in neighbor and main streets. all feels fine. no codes. tranny oil cooler not connected. i kept the cooling lines still looped w a jumper hose, bypassing the cooler.
 

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Discussion Starter · #44 ·
ac system.

first off,... if you have some mechanical ability, GO FOR IT! watch you tube. some will scare you away, it’s quite straight forward. bottom line. don’t release refrigerant or its a 25k fine. and keep air out of system w clean oil

i had a severe leak and the compressor rubber damper failed (probably seized compressor). so i tackled this as a compressor failure w dirty lines.

bought a flush kit off ebay $35, flushing fluid from napa

i thoroughly flushed lines forward and reverse. kept evaporators. trashed condenser and txv’s

replaced
compressor denso 471-0705
condenser 22918340
txv 22804123 and denso 475-2084 front/rear
liquid compressor discharge line 15-34440
rear evap filter 15-33883

gaskets.... i wasted a lot of money here. just buy a bulk pack off rock auto for $20. i spent $100 buying the seals oem. there’s small 15-31054, med 15-31055, large 15-31101. several more part numbers

pag 46 w green dye

30# cylinder 134a

vac pump, gauges. i had a recovery cylinder, but refrigerant gone, no need

i used a syringe to put the property pag into each line and component. i was not able to drain compressor of oil. i had power washed engine w old compressor disconnected months prior. nothing dumped out of old compressor. i used motor oil to carefully coat each seal. pag oil only placed inside tubing.

i carefully collected the flush fluid and filtered it w coffee filters. looking for debris. did find micro shiney glitter in very diluted amounts. the old pag that accumulated at hose connections was clean and green. factory installed dye.

the rear evap filter was fairly clean

the txvs looked visibility clean. i did t know if the expansion orifices had anything in there, for $85, both replaced as insurance

better than i thought. i kept flushing til fluid was crystal clear to be sure

purged lines w nitrogen and covered hose ends w saran wrap/rubber bands to keep system clean until i connected compressor lines
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 · (Edited)
installed a used oem ford f-150 (1996-2004)transmission cooler like p/n 5l3z7a095h. drilled holes into bumper beam and mounted directly behind lic plate. i cut into the enclave xmission inlet line. removed the rubber and factory aluminum crimps. ran 3/8 xmission line to and from ford cooler. i added a raybestos 3/8” (51554) external filter after the ford cooler. ran tubing so it hangs directly blow the lic plate at bottom edge of ps cooler. i used wire to support so it’s won’t dangle. i’ll replace this every 15-20k. more importantly, i can do PROPER flushes easily here. disconnect line, turn on engine til it gurgles, refill case w fluid expelled and repeat til clean fluid comes out. i’ve done this on three of my other vehicles over past 8 years w great success and ease of flushing

this solves gms brilliant unserviceable internal filter

ran engine and all good!,, a leak in tranny outlet line began to leak at the aluminum compression fitting. i recalled accidentally twisting this connection earlier where the rubber twisted about the tube. old lines lost crimp compression as the rubber hose aged....... i dremmeled off the aluminum crimps and rebuild w 3/8” cooling lines.

note: the new radiator came w orings and eclips to receive the xmission cooling lines

all hose rubber and seals replaced

side note:

modern trannies have temp sensors to measure the fluid. i assume it adjusts shifting performance as fluid warms up? as things settle out, i’ll instal my k-type thermal probes to the in/out tranny lines to monitor. i did this to my f150 when it did this mod years ago to it. i recall outlet temps 175-195f. i realize fluid needs to be hot enough to perform properly, burn off moisture. if i overshot, then i’ll just cover part of the ford external cooler to reduce cooling.

a read another post about dex6 being ultra sensitive to over temperature. my goal at moment is to run 180-190f coming out of the tranny. i copied a table where 200f begins acceleration of dex6 degradation. and 220 is bad, 260 terminal.

this tranny had dirty fluid for 67,600 miles. after installing the cooler/raybestoes filter, i flushed the used cooler and the new tranny fluid was not bright red as expected. so i ran another 10 quarts through the tranny w return line in the bucket til i got bright red again. got a bad feeling the 2012 tranny was abused. but removal/swap of techm, the membrane screens were all perfectly clean. keeping my 167k tranny for a future clutch pack rebuild project. searching used trannys last night, it’s hard now finding a used one under 100k

my rebuild of oem tranny lines isn’t the “best industry practice”, so i’ll monitor w every oil change checking for seepage at my hose clamp fittings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 · (Edited)
test driving car at night w bumper still off. all checks good. after a few weeks of all this, p0430 goes off for inefficient cat. corrected issue and catylst readiness on i/m’s ready

my evap i/m still not ready (had this problem prior to engine pull, couldn’t pass emmissions at that time so sat). i’ll figure replace engine purge one more time, then replace purge on top of fuel tank

had a concerning clunk. noticed going up/down curb slowly. and as id back out garage and front tires slowly drop down the 1” step, felt like engine was dropping. isolated noise to drivers side spring. reached into wheel well, grabbed lower part of spring, pushed/pulled and duplicated it. when on the jack, i used a second jack under the ball joint to slowly raise and lower the control arm. once i found the spring tension neutral position, the clunk was extremely obvious to be the nut on the top of the strut. punchline,... i screwed up 6 years ago when i replaced the struts. the top nut had loosened up. since i still had wipers and cowel still off, i tightened both

NO CLUNKS,... finally, w every other bushing and joint replaced, so responsive and quiet.

installed bumper. clocked 100 miles on several short trips past week. drives like new. engine so quiet, i think it’s off while waiting a the light
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
i removed the throttle body and wiped that sucker clean earlier in this job.

i removed and cleaned the MAP. i inspect w jewelers glass. can still see haze on element. everyone says not to do this, i use a q-tip soaked in cleaner to lightly scrub the element. been doing this on my other cars for years w no issue. do at ur own risk. it’s worked well for me
 

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Discussion Starter · #48 ·
test driving, no clunks, no engine lights, but evap i/m still not ready, drove highway 30 miles no xmission shudder yet.


punch list

i’m undercharged on refrigerant. been charged for 2 week since and still hissi g as i never topped the charge at i initial filling. expecting one or both evaporators to have problems.......

going to pull gm’s stoik charging chart and top properly. mid 30’s on low, 190-210 high around 85-90f. so i’m close

replaced halogen low beam bulbs. wire harness were redone as recall, new wires browning, good old GM....... still can fix their problems.......

have very dim lights still. to polish housing today as they are very hazy. need to figure this wire problem before it causes more problems. investigating xenon depots hid conversion. i adjusted fogs slighlptly higher to help. it really sucks right now. will double check later that bulbs are seated proper. had problem before i did all this, nothing new

technically, i can pass emissions right now w only 1 I/M not ready,

replaced all wipers w eo
rear 15276259
fronts 25941804/25941805

alignment not done. has to, i know. i carefully untwisted each tie rod end and reinstalled new to exact turns. the 30mile drive drove straight w only slight pull needing correction after 15 seconds. the steering wheel i still off 5 degrees. what luck!

paint touch up

console slider door ordered, disintegrated

black plastic sheathing on starter cable

ps return line has black zip tie connection on cradle that broke. going to drill in a real bracket to support

tpms sensor battery dead, low priority
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
cost analysis. everyone asks is it worth to repair, well, it depends.

w bough this ours used in 2010 w 10,000 miles at back end of housing crash. $28k from private party. they came to table w $$3k or pay off loan. local auctions were going for 29-32k at time as i was going through auction houses originally to purchase my wife’s car. so i got this car cheaper than the dealers were buying avis rentals sold at auction, then turning them around sellong to thebes public. it’s was a great deal for a msrp $56k (new) car w tow package, dual dvd screens in seats, etc...

i just added up all parts cost pre tax/shipping. just about $6k, including fluids. Let’s say $7k after tax and shipping and small stuff i forgot. now i got $900 steering rack for $380, used tranny for $550 pre ship, used alt/starter $50-70 range, cloyes chain kit $220, hd radiator $195, you get the picture. saved 40% on eo parts, then my labor

a guy claiming to own a shop reported rates of repairs in his shop for 07-2013 on the acadia website on lambda cars. didn’t specify type of repair condition, could have been a wiper blade for all i know. . i’ll be bet speeelos will recall this detail buried in there somewhere as he’s very much on top of the information on that forum.

my take away was 2009’s had most issues, then 2010’s, then rest of the earlier years where level.

i’d stay away from those two model years based on my experience on our 2009 and his post

my justification for keeping the car.....

for me, working on cars is therapy

i’m just not interested in new cars due to cost and you can’t drive them into the ground anymore.

a new reliable suv is such an investmen for a depreciating asset. we’ve decided to keep our $$ in the stock market instead.

it’s light metallic paint, accident free, so a good platform to work off of, 12yrs and looks good.

my wife likes to drive it when it works

stopped at buick yesterday, new decked out enclave ttl $64k total cost. i have a refurbished car for 10% the cost of new....

i made this work as an investment in my mind, but i could do the work and sourced oe parts 40% off.

we will rent cars from now on for out of town trips. it’s just tooooo problematic and now age will certainly add to the failure equation

junkyard offers $500, trade-in 4-5k...... or i could have parted the car out on ebay....

if anyone asks me what to do w a 150k lambda w $4k+ repair bill,..... SELL unless your willling to deep dive into the car. as i replaced many components reaching end of service life and discovered others on the verge of failure. my reasoning is i could actually get to it quickly w engine out.

i think im the few who have gone to this extent, i’ve earned my right of opinion, bloody knuckles and all....
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 · (Edited)
car had “evap” I/M readiness not ready, all others a go. passed emissions yesterday, registered and off she went to work. guy at emmissions station said “it’s one of the best older cars he’s seen, whoever’s been doing the maintenance is doing great”

yesterday’s round trip to work and she just texted this morning w thumbs up! it’s a winner

she reports it drives like new. so quiet she thinks it’s not on

steering, suspension feels great

did notice slight hesitation in tranny what she thinks is 3rd to 4th once. i’m going over w her to note engine speed and watching tach to help determine what’s going on. now she’s been driving my back up lexus which happens to have a very nice tranny. so i think this 2012 junkie tranny is good to go and it’s just the performance limits of what gm can offer??

shudder under acceleration 35-50mph has not surfaced

sewing machine rattle gone. my first advice on that one is to drop oil pan and replace oil pick up tube seal. as i’ve been using ac delco e48 filters. so i know it’s not the backflip valves on these filters

steering bushing clunk gone

suspension clunks all gone, however, there’s a bumper stop inside the rear springs that’s flopping looses on both rear sides. i don’t notice noise, but it’s on the list

i reused exhaust gaskets bc gm diagrams too confusing to figure out. so far so good

still original o2 sensors. no “laziness” detected yet

my undercharged ac charge is still cooling after 2-1/2 weeks. maybe i dodged a bullet on the evaps?? topping off proper is now next on my list

sanded yellow headlights sunday and spray bombed w uv clear coat. lights much better, but crap when compared to the HID lexus she’s been driving. i’m curious if i can do xenondepots lower wattage HID version conversion, redo wire harness and reduce electrical load on those frying wires?????

at moment. most is solved pending ac and evap purge investigation
 

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Discussion Starter · #52 · (Edited)
cars driving great all week. feels like new she says.... no engine light

went to top off ac wed. a lot of green oil on suction line cap. i filled the oil directly inside each component w a syringe. way more oil here than simply removing service connection. then i remove the high side connection and “old faithful” comes spraying out. got it stopped quick - i miss shreader valves....

ordered new suction line and high pressure service port. hope to have it by weekend. charge was still holding.

ac was the last on my list to complete pending if the car would actually work after all i did. don’t have ruling on evaps yet. i never leak checked prior to removal from service. at that time, i had to recharge every 2 days. new parts definitely helped so far.

i scrubbed rbarros 08-10 enclave manual for stoik charging charts. nada! just say to use special charging machine. i’ll recharge this time by weight. 2.3#.

appears all generic charging pressure numbers are at idle. i reved engine 1500 rpm, pressure dropped to 25psi and cut off (low pressure cycling as expected). added a smidge if oil/234a and output was 41f w 80f ambient high humidity
 

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Discussion Starter · #53 · (Edited)
breaks! well, i have to compliment gm here. our front pads went out about 150k ish i believe (went down to wear indicators)- i did those. new pads,clips, greased pins, left rotors as is. i can’t find if she had them replaced before. i did have rotors turned a little before as she hit a puddle and warped them. i give the guy $20 tip so i watch and he leaves a few grooves behind. minimal metal removed

rear pads have .080” til wear indicator. ordered oem pads this week as well to put on the shelf. rear rotors smooth

no caliper leaks
 

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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
a/c complete.

new......

suction line 1535055
hi pressure service port replacement 155438
service cap (hi side) 1711096

another $130

suction line came w cap and seals on both ends. used channel wrench to remove hi pressure port, was soft aluminum and hex was not standard. new caps had soft pliable rubber gaskets inside

charging mystery solved. charged to factory spec 2.3#. dead nuts. used my leak detector in the vents to detect evap leaks, couldn’t tell, the airflow makes my sensor jumpy. it held vac for 2 hours before i charge do it. i think i’m fine, but time will tell

revved engine 2000 rpm to simulate ave drive for a few min to load compressor, gauges looked good and no cycling
 

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Discussion Starter · #55 ·
test drove after wife had for week, alls good so far. p0497 evap purge came back as i expected. no other codes. I/M evap finally “ready”. going to throw one more purge valve at it in the engine bay, then i’ll drop fuel tank and do the other and check the lines.

removed a chunk of a broom stick wedged between the fuel tank and tank strap ( from before i took car out of service) - road debris.

i had purchased 2 spare 20” matching “take-off” rims from ebay years ago. she keeps picking up nails in back tires. spare set has served us well. keeping one tire/rim in back - doughnut is a POS.

all part numbers posted throughout this thread are actual parts i installed on car and worked for the 2009 MY

accordion sliding center counsel door came in, pending instal.

most of the black paint has come off the climate control buttons. has been a seven year evolution, not sure if i’ll bother replacing. we don’t use chemicals to clean interior trim, figured another defect. i see this on several cars listed for sale. not a surprise
 

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
2wks. cars driving great

1wk, ac great, appears i’ve dodged evap leakage for now. i’d recommend to replace components to both service valve ports. definitely a leak contributor.

called my local supply house. r134a goes for $312/30#. about $23 to recharge my system from vacuum at today’s prices. my neighbor just had a pound added to his. cost him $200 at a shop

installed new acordian sliding console door. popped trim pieces wo removing arm rest. 20 min job thanks to aide of other diy posts. pn 2579-0189. $42

still only have p0497 evap purge. my next project
 
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