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Discussion Starter #1
Mileage 101,400.
Symptoms in my case- noticed a drop of oil like substance where the vehicle had been parked.
I took a look and found signs of a leak.
At 100,000- I changed oil and trans fluids, plugs, O2 Sensors, brakes.. and when I did the oil- I wiped this area clean.
So this leak definitely happened in the last 1400 miles.
I knew it was the front engine mount.
To confirm-
from a stop- I accelerated harder than normal... and ---"THUNK".
Yup- engine lifted/shifted.... classic symptom of a bad motor mount

The front mount is liquid/oil filled on this vehicle.

I bought a new mount.
General Motors, MOUNT, Part # 25840452. $78.60.




The following- is the way I replaced the mount.

The tools I used. (not shown- jack, 2 jackstands)
18 MM long and short socket, and wrench, and 2 ratchets- one with swivel head, 1 short extension.




Jacked up vehicle and put the front end on 2 jackstands.
I began by loosening the nut to the rear motor mount and transmission mount--- leaving the nuts on- but allowing for it to move upward.
I then removed the lower nut to the front mount.

I did this to allow the engine to be lifted easily.


Rear mount.


Trans mount by wheel well... note the lower arm.



how I left the nut--




I then loosened the front TOP mount nut.
How I did it--- I have small hands- and was able to stick my hand in the openings as shown.
This is where the swivel head came in very handy- as I put one hand in thru the opening behind the radiator--- and my other hand through the rear-- and loosened the nut.
Then I finished removing the nut from the top.

hopefully the pics make sense. I had to swap the camera to take pics..





from underneath-- arm by the mount...



hand via the rear--- then with both hands-- pull/turn to loosen nut




Once the nut is removed-
Lift the engine.
I placed my jack- right on the motor mount bracket. (yup- the one that gets dirty with oil on oil changes).
NOTE---- I placed it on the bracket only... and not the oil pan.





I Lifted the engine slowly.
checking several times to see if I had enough room to remove the mount.
Youll have to turn and swivel a bit to check when youre able to lift it out of the bottom hole--- by lifting the mount up.
Once its free- you can move it to the side.

While the engine is lifted-- the mount will not come out- as the metal bracket is in the way.
If you have the PF-48E filter-- there is no need to remove it
Its possible that longer filters may have to be removed.




The trick to remove the mount-- upward... is to leave the mount there-- and then LOWER the engine- this moves that bracket out of the way.
You can now wiggle the mount around and lift it up past the oil dipstick and the wire looms (may have to move those a little).


I recommend you have cardboard or plastic----- when you wiggle that mount around-- some oil may leak.

I put the mount down- and it leaked out some oil....
It was pretty much empty of oil.




slide the new mount in.
Raise the engine again.
reversing the procedure above.
Dont forget to include the rubber shield on top.

NOTE--- the bottom part of the mount has a small tab,
Once the bolts are in the upper and lower holes-- turn the mount-- and you will FEEL the mounts little tab fall into the little hole that aligns it.
(note in the pic below-- the white tab faces toward the catalytic converter--- letting you know its in the right position)
Once its aligned- you can lower the engine.
Tighten all 4 bolts.
Rear mount, trans mount. and 2 on front mount.

the lower front mount bolt--- and to its right-- the small hole that allows the tab to fall into it





The new mount installed. (I eventually cleaned the leak stains).




total time it took me 1:15 (taking pics, video)

total time if I was not documenting- probably 35-40 min.



old vs new.

http://vid1156.photobucket.com/albums/p570/rbmo2/Traverse/MOV05387_zpsibrxnjk6.mp4


NOTES:

Its possible- that some of you MAY be able to loosen the top mount nut-- by using enough extensions that you could loosen it fron the top.
Remove the engine cover to give you more space.
While down there--- it appears that it may be possible to undo the mount brace to be able to slide out the mount from the bottom. I saw 3 bolts.

If others have done this- and have a better way to do one of these steps-- please feel free to let us know.
 

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I wonder how much a dealership or independent garage would want for this work. They probably would have charged $100 just for the motor mount. It looks like it's a small PITA to get to everything but certainly well worth it for the savings by DIY.
 

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I should dig up some pics of these good ol' boys doing the lower rad support on my Nissan. Unfortunately the 4th gen has a crossmember bolted to the lower rad support, dumb. So after around 9-12 yrs. in the Northeast, they collapse from corrosion and the weight (it's always amazing to see an old car from SoCal or Phoenix, they don't have this issue).

Body shops want $1700 for the job, but the real problem is you know the deal, the incentive to increase the margin by using aftermarket instead of OEM, and charging the OEM price. Well, people found on the forum that aftermarket collapses in 2 yrs (reminds me of Walker lifetime exhaust systems which fail in like 18 mos).

All these welds have to be cut in order to remove the old part, some came up with a bolt-on solution but you can imagine....

Found these kids in North Jersey who did it for $130. I was blown away at their competence/capabilities. It was done out of his parents' house lol :happy:

edit: here's a link to the part, I believe you are looking at the part as if you are looking at the grille of the car

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1995-96-97-98-1999-Nissan-Maxima-LOWER-RADIATOR-SUPPORT-/200373444986?fits=Make%3ANissan|Model%3AMaxima&hash=item2ea730217a&vxp=mtr
ps the guy at the body shop was a straight shooter, he said if he were me he would not pay $1700 on a car this old, I would simply drive it, and yes, eventually your motor will fall out.
 

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rbarrios,
Great documentation!!
Excellent write up and listing of tools and procedure. I like the gloves you wore as they not only protect your hands, they also protect you forearms.
The use of axle stands is paramount in these repairs as you are wanting the vehicle stable so you can lift the engine that little bit to get the mount out.
Again great work.
Rick
 

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Over the years, it has become increasingly obvious that if rbarrios doesn't know it or hasn't done it,
it ain't worth knowing or doing.

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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I'm book marking all of rbarrios posts for when my Buick goes to the crapper, so I can look back and see how its supposed to be done. Excellent post as always RB.
 

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I was in a hurry to change front torque mount on my 2014 and was being told several days before it could be done even though I bought new mount from dealer(with garage discount). After a brief search this excellent DIY topic showed up and everything went down just like he says. Had to take off the oil filter for top bolt access but the whole thing went well and was done in an hour even including looking arounds for the tools. I used jack stands and also 2 more bottle jacks to hold up car as a redundant measure. Every time I get under a vehicle I get flash backs to when I witnessed a person caught under dump truck bed when hydraulics let go. Don't take that chance. Thanks for the excellent post.
 

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Welcome to the group :cheers:
Glad to hear all went well with the motor mount replacement.
Thanks for the reminder to always use jack stands.
Rick
 

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Big THANK YOU! to rbarrios!!! Great write up, I was able to use several long extensions and get the top bolt from the top. Took me an hour and a half start to finish and that was with stopping several times to help my son with something on his car. If you lived nearby I'd offer to buy you a beer. :)
 

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BadAV said:
I wonder how much a dealership or independent garage would want for this work. They probably would have charged $100 just for the motor mount. It looks like it's a small PITA to get to everything but certainly well worth it for the savings by DIY.
My wife took her 2012 Enclave to the dealership today for an oil change. They told her the front motor mount is bad. They quoted $433.00 + tax.

I'm going to take a look at it after work to see if I believe them.

I will say that I'm surprised they're not quoting it higher than that.
 

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umbluegray said:
My wife took her 2012 Enclave to the dealership today for an oil change. They told her the front motor mount is bad. They quoted $433.00 + tax.

I'm going to take a look at it after work to see if I believe them.

I will say that I'm surprised they're not quoting it higher than that.
Powertrain warranty of 5 years and/or 100000 miles does cover the motor mounts. Are you past any of those limits?
 

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Thanks rb....appreciate the info. Great write up !!! I was on the board a few years ago , it has changed since then. I had to get a new user name ...glad you're still here giving good info.
Thanks, Jim
 

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And the beat goes on/ my 2010 E cxl fwd supposedly has bad front motor mount at 68k........
I checked out utube vid/ this guy lossened r and l mm and lifted motor to remove via oil pan/ that was only diff to rb's usual excellent post. I checked with dealer gm parts and they think there is not a rear mm. These little projects seem to always come with twists and turns!! I believe I also have a bad rf cv half shaft. There is a single clunk from right front wheel area when engaging drive/but not in reverse, as well as each time you let off the gas and get back on it. You can bypass this clunk if you apply a very delicate feather foot.I have both parts so if the right one doesn't get ya the lefty one will/ maybe.............. Any advice/comments will be appreciated

Thanks
 

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I had a safety inspection done in VA for my 2017 Enclave. It required a new front motor mount in order to pass as it was torn and leaked fluid. I had no idea it had failed as I sensed no clunk or thunk but I drive my vehicle gently My vehicle has 30K miles and this was done at the dealer so it was covered by warranty. It took several days as I suspect there was a need to get parts (I also had a leaky power steering pump hose requiring replacement- also free under warranty). They indicated that it was taking longer than normal because they had to apply heat to get some fasteners loose. I asked a question and they said it was related to the exhaust which rusts up (and I presumed also needed loosening in order to raise the engine). When this vehicle is out of warranty, in 20K miles, I anticipate that I might need to change this mount again sometime in the future as it seems to fail frequently. The dealer told me it is a common failure on this body type. This repair description (excellent by the way) does not mention needing to touch the exhaust to raise the engine. Am I missing something? My repair cost me nothing but it looks like this could have been an expensive dealer repair if I was out of warranty. Finally, I am also a little concerned about things already failing for a fairly new and gently driven and expensive vehicle. Just looking for a sanity check!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
nope-- I did not touch my exhaust. I was able to raise engine enough to change the front mount, (FWD)
 
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