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Well, this story begins when my 2010 Enclave began blowing ONLY very hot air on the passenger side of the dual climate. Before I could even get to the dealer, the driver side also started blowing ONLY very hot air. Took it to them and they recalibrated the temperature actuators and told me that more than likely once they start acting up, they will have to be replaced. We got the A/C back for about 2 days, then back to the hot air. Quote from the dealer for the 2 actuators and labor was around $600. I decided to do some forum surfing and see other's experiences. I was able to find the actuators online for ~$45 per actuator, and spent a few hours to get the HVAC working normal again. I was able to troubleshoot which actuators were causing the problem by changing the various HVAC controls and seeing which actuators moved in response. I discovered both my Passenger and Driver side Temperature actuators were not moving to a colder temperature demand. Once removed, I took the actuators apart and found that the motors would only travel one direction (in my case full hot). Below is an explanation of how to change out actuators for the Enclave HVAC. Tools I used included needle-nose pliers, T20 Torx Bit for the mounting screws of the actuators, flashlights, and various screwdriver extensions/accessories.

To access the Passenger side Temperature actuator, the glovebox has to be pulled out. This is done by unlocking 2 tabs, pulling out the linkage for lowering, and pulling the glovebox up off the hinges.



The cover must be removed from the blower underneath the glovebox. 2 simple push-tab fasteners and the panel is free to be pulled out. I also removed the passenger side panel of the center console for a little extra room.



The Enclave has 4 actuators, 3 accessed from the passenger side and 1 accessed from the driver side. The Mode actuator (defrost, vent, mix, etc.), Recirc actuator (inside or outside air), and Passenger Temperature actuator (passenger air temp) are found on the passenger side.



Unfortunately for me, the Passenger Temperature actuator was the hardest to access. Small hands are a definite advantage that I did not have. I was able to get to one screw pretty easily, and a second screw with a little bit of angle (be careful not to strip out the screw head). The 3rd screw was on the side of the center console, with framework and plastic pieces in the way. I had to hold a T20 Torx bit in the screw with my thumb and back the screw all the way out using needle-nose pliers about 1/8 of a turn at a time. Once the screws are removed, simply unplug the wire connector from the removed actuator, plug in the new actuator, and line up the HVAC damper door with whatever position the new actuator is in. Since the actuator won't have power, you will have to position the damper door to line up with tabs on the actuator for proper installation. (do not energize the actuator prior to installation or it may go beyond its travel limit)



After looking at it for a while and dreading having to put the hard-to-reach 3rd screw back in, I came up with a simple solution. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the panel to the left of the glovebox that allowed a screwdriver the perfect alignment to tighten the 3rd screw. This hole will be hidden once the glovebox is installed again. I would highly recommend drilling this hole for removal of the 3rd screw. It would have saved me at least 30 minutes of fighting to remove a single screw.



The Driver Temperature actuator is the only one accessed from the driver's side. The lower panel was removed by removing the 3 push-tab fasteners.



The driver side seemed like a walk in the park compared to the passenger side. There was LOTS more room to access the mounting screws. This side took about 5 minutes.


Once the actuators were installed, I was able to get cool air again. However, the temperature seemed to be cycling from hot to cool every so often. Upon further online research, I found a possible solution. It was recommended to 1) remove the HVAC fuse for minimum 10 seconds 2) install fuse 3) start vehicle and wait 40 seconds for control module to self-calibrate. This fuse is found in the instrument panel fuse block, which is located under the instrument panel on the passenger side of the vehicle (below/behind the glovebox). This would be ideal to access and reset prior to re-installing all the panels and glovebox. This reset procedure ultimately got rid of the temperature swings. According to the Enclave Service Manual I was able to find on this forum, once the new actuators are installed, they are supposed to be recalibrated. Didn't find any further details on what exactly it takes to recalibrate, but I was getting my desired air temperature control after pulling the HVAC fuse and re-installing. I hope this post is a help to those having any control issues with the front HVAC system. The procedure would be identical, just a different actuator, if your HVAC won't change from defrost to vent to floor OR from recirc inside air to outside normal air. Hopefully this will give somebody the courage to attempt this repair for themselves, and spend maybe $100 instead the $600 the dealer was projecting. Happy Repairing!
 

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Excellent write up with great pictures! There have been other posts explaining how to do this somewhat common repair. However, this is the first time I have seen pictures which show the various actuators and explain what each one does. Good information for anyone wanting or needing to do this repair themselves.

There are also actuators in the rear HVAC system that fail. From reading a few posts about those, it is a little more involved having to remove more trim panels and such.
 

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GREAT WRITE UP NATHANMAC!!! Thanks........

I never have my system in automatic climate control mode as I manually set the desired temperature and run the heat and A/C when I want. Theory is less wear and tear on the A/C compressor and these actuators. I wonder if you ran yours on Auto mode which may have helped precipitate the failure of the actuators. Just a thought. Comments???
 

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Have a question ? When these actuators go bad do they send a code. I am having problems with warm air on passenger side and feels like warm air in the rear. Dealer service tells me they can't duplicate and no codes were found

??? ??? ???
 

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EZ Street said:
Have a question ? When these actuators go bad do they send a code. I am having problems with warm air on passenger side and feels like warm air in the rear. Dealer service tells me they can't duplicate and no codes were found

??? ??? ???
No. no codes.

though not sure what the fancy models with Digital AC will do.
Normally the vents will not do what theyre commanded to do (wrong type of air- or out of wrong vent)
 

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rbarrios said:
No. no codes.

though not sure what the fancy models with Digital AC will do.
Normally the vents will not do what theyre commanded to do (wrong type of air- or out of wrong vent)
No codes on the fancy digital model only. It did trip a code with my wifehoneydo reader.
 

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Thank you for your replies on the codes. Now that the ac is off and the heat on will just have to see what happens ??? ???
 

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Discussion Starter #8
ENCLAVEDUDE said:
GREAT WRITE UP NATHANMAC!!! Thanks........

I never have my system in automatic climate control mode as I manually set the desired temperature and run the heat and A/C when I want. Theory is less wear and tear on the A/C compressor and these actuators. I wonder if you ran yours on Auto mode which may have helped precipitate the failure of the actuators. Just a thought. Comments???
We have owned the 2010 Enclave since April of this year. Just rolled over 100k miles. I typically run the heat and A/C manually, adjusting myself for temperature and airflow. Can't say what the previous owner did for the first 80k.
 

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This is the same as my 2011 Traverse. The pass side temp blend actuator electric board burnt and needed replacement. I fought for awhile trying to unscrew the bottom screw without make any headway, then I remembered a post about drilling a hole. I decided to just drill a hole like you said and within minutes I had it out. Like you said once the glove box is in you cannot see hole. The only other way I figure to do it without drilling a hole would be removing pass side dash...

Great write up
 

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Discussion Starter #10
mlaaw said:
This is the same as my 2011 Traverse. The pass side temp blend actuator electric board burnt and needed replacement. I fought for awhile trying to unscrew the bottom screw without make any headway, then I remembered a post about drilling a hole. I decided to just drill a hole like you said and within minutes I had it out. Like you said once the glove box is in you cannot see hole. The only other way I figure to do it without drilling a hole would be removing pass side dash...

Great write up
Awesome! I was hoping this would help others with the same issues. I'm glad I thought to drill the hole for my sake, and yours mlaaw!
 

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are the actuators the same on the drivers and passengers side? I see two part numbers:1573666 and 1573989. I've been trying to find out which one is the correct part number.
 

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Ok, here's my problem. The drivers side blows hot air and the passenger side blows cold air. I swapped out the actuator as described below, I even pulled the fuse as instructed. I still have the same problem. When I switch between defrost all the way to the floor, the actuator works just fine. Any ideas? When I drive down the road, I'm toasty warm and my wife is freezing.
 

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Well, I gues that I should have my man card taken away! I swapped out the wrong actuator. After I swapped out the other one, YIPPY we now have heat on both sides. Sorry to be a pain. This forum has helped, thank you!
 

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Thanks for the great detailed explanation - I reckon that saved me about $400 in dealer labor. My Enclave was stuck at defrost mode only. I bought the Dorman 604-140 from Amazon for $41 but I expect the cheaper $27 version would work just as well. There is no explanation of the difference on Amazon. I replaced the blend actuator in about an hour with your instructions. The screws drive into plastic so cannot be undone with just fingers. I could have saved a lot of time if I had a miniature ratchet with Torx bit. Instead I made do with a Torx bit and a short 1/4" box wrench taped together. I opened up the old actuator and found it had a burnt resistor on the circuit board. I see why you said to remove the blower case cover under the dash - that is how you get your hand in to get to the screws.
Thanks again.
 

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>>>>>After looking at it for a while and dreading having to put the hard-to-reach 3rd screw back in, I came up with a simple solution. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the panel to the left of the glovebox that allowed a screwdriver the perfect alignment to tighten the 3rd screw. This hole will be hidden once the glovebox is installed again. I would highly recommend drilling this hole for removal of the 3rd screw. It would have saved me at least 30 minutes of fighting to remove a single screw.<<<<<

Brilliantly simple solution to overcome this re-installation hurdle......good show, Nathan !!!!
 

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Great post and idea to drill. Removed the actuator in 5 minutes.

When I replaced the actuator and connected everything, I tested different heat settings to watch the circular piece turn the door. Everything works fine again, except the blend door actuator does not immediately turn with different settings. The actuator turns a little, stops, turns more. It does not seem to continuously (smoothly) move through the range when adjusted from full hot to fold cold. For example when I change the vent settings the actuator in front of it moves continuously to the new setting. I'm thinking the door may have resistance and that's why the other motor may have burned up.

One more supporting piece of information. When using the main temperature control, not just changing passenger setting, the driver vents changed immediately from hot to cold while the passenger vents lagged behind a bit (that intermittent adjustment I spoke of above. Is this normal characteristics of movement anyone else has witnessed?
 

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there are some units that get the HVAC assembly that warps...
making the doors hard to move... could be your issue.
 
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