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Thanks for all the information and pictures on this topic. My passenger blend actuator died at 66K miles. $45 and an hour later and it's fixed good as new. I'm sure dealer would have wanted $400+. Opening bad actuator confirmed burnt out resistor. Looks like a case of built in obsolescence ($45 part that most people would pay the dealer a ton of money to fix outside of warranty.
 

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This thread has been most helpful in helping me confirm what is the most likely issue with my wife's 2011 Enclave, as well as giving me the confidence that I can replace these parts once I get them in hand.

Now I just have to figure out which actuator(s) is the culprit and get the correct part numbers. Her defrost blows fine and the rear HVAC blows hot, but the dash and floor vents either won't blow at all or will only blow cold air (usually they don't blow at all).

I was thinking of replacing the Mode Actuator to start, but figured since these are just $30 parts and I'll already be tooled up, I might as well replace the passenger Temp actuator while I'm there.

Can anyone confirm whether all 4 actuators are the same part number for this vehicle? Thanks!
 

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Thank you for the very informative post! We purchased a used 2011 Enclave last November and it has been running great. Now that it is starting to get warmer we are adjusting the climate control to blow colder air and just yesterday noticed the passenger side is only blowing hot air no matter what. :p

Thankfully this does not look that hard to fix, plus ours is still under warranty so it is GM's problem. But it is still good to know it is not a major problem requiring them to replace the whole system. :)
 

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Just had same problem with my 11. Turned out to rear evaporator had a leak and lost all Freon Check your rear air also not blowing cold air along with pass side. Your still under warranty get it back to the dealer 4Hour fix
:cheers:
 

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So I followed this article during the winter when my wife's car wouldn't switch from the defrost to dash. Worked great.

Now that it's summer, we're getting no AC. it worked fine for a while, then suddenly it seems like we're getting only hot air (from outside) from the passenger and driver side as well as the rear unit.

Any thoughts on what to check next? I cant imagine that 3 temp actuators would go out at once..... Do I just need to head to the stealership and grab my ankles?
 

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I think you have a different problem Sounds like you have lost your Freon. You could have a leak or need a recharge :banghead: :confused:
 

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Thanks, EZ. Now that I'm thinking about leaks, I did notice a little coolant weeping out onto the driveway just before the AC quit but didn't think it could have anything to do with it (heater maybe, but not the AC),

I haven't got a clue how the HVAC systems are designed in these things. Do you think the coolant leak could be related to the same part(s) as the cause of the AC failure?
 

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Are you sure it was coolant? The AC is a unit by itself and sealed containing gases and Freon so if you need a recharge there is only one answer you have a leak some where and once you lose so much you will not get cold air Had this problem with no cold air on passenger side or rear of vehicle. turned out to be the rear evaporator leaked . Had to be replaced lucky it was still under warranty Dealer quoted me $800. Since replaced have plenty of cold air. :cheers: :beer:
 

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Fantastic write up! Thank you so much! I was able to use your post to fix my 2011 Enclave CXL! In summary....

My wife and purchased a used 2011 Buick Enclave CXL in March of 2015. Once the weather got warm (we live in IA), we started to use the air conditioning with no issues. One Saturday in August, I was detailing the enclave and left the radio on while I was working on the dash, windows, etc. Once I was finished, I attempted to star the car, and received a notification to the effect of, "Battery Saver Mode On." The car would not start, so I let it sit for a couple hours, and she started right up. When we took it for a drive, the passenger side would only blow out incredibly hot air (full heat), while the driver's side worked just fine. After a few more miles, the driver's side puked as well.

Having no idea what caused this, I called my mechanic to get some insight. He really had no idea what the issue was, but expected it to be something with the inner computers or potentially needing multiple components of the HVAC system replaced (condenser, evaporator, etc. - high $$ fixes). Unsatisfied with his answer, I turned to my trusty friend Google to do some recon and stumbled upon this forum. After researching and researching (and not wanting to pay $1600+ for a mechanic to trial and error a solution), I decided to give this project a go! I used these instructions, pictures, etc. to DIY this project! I few comments that I would add...

- I am in no way mechanically inclined. I know NOTHING about cars. Aside from recharging the Freon in my 1999 Saab in college, I have never attempted a car project. That said, this is a surprisingly easy project! Even if you do not have a greasy thumb, I would recommend giving this a go. I might add that I am fairly handy around the house and have tackled numerous renovation projects. Another important item - I can follow directions!

-I found an AC Delco part on Amazon for $37 (search ACDelco 15-73989 GM Original Equipment Air Conditioning Vacuum Actuator). There are a total of 4 actuators in the Enclave (that are mentioned above). I had to replace 2 - the passenger and driver temperature blend. It appears that all 4 require the same replacement part. The AC Delco seem to be the exact same as what I removed / what the manufacturer uses (for what it's worth, not sure if that's good or bad, considering they were faulty). There are additional brand on Amazon that, I'm sure, would work as well. I checked my local auto parts store, and the same part was $93!

-The project took me a few hours, all - in. As mentioned previously, the passenger side actuator is in a very tricky place to access. I ended up going to Menard's and buying a small ratchet to get to one of the screws. I also drilled a hole to access the third - brilliant idea, can't even see it when the glove box is there! In hindsight, I wish I had started with the driver's side because it is so much easier to access - this would have allowed me to get more familiar with what I'm doing, making the trickier passenger side a little easier.

-Before testing the system, I went ahead and removed / replaced the HVAC fuse to allow it to re-calibrate. The fuse box is below the passenger glove box, so I would recommend doing this before you put the car back together. The fuse is also in a somewhat awkward location. On my first attempt of replacing the fuse, it slipped out of my fingers and was lost ( :facepalm: ). Without any replacement fuses on hand, I had to run out to buy some. I purchased regular 15 Amp auto fuses, to find out when I tried to install that they did not fit ( :facepalm: :facepalm: ). The enclave uses "low profile" fuses - they do the same thing, but smaller / shorter to fit in tight spots. I'd recommend going ahead and buying some extra low profile fuses before you start the project in case you drop one and don't have any spares on hand.

Again - thanks for such a detailed post! When our A/C went out in the hottest month of the year on a 4-5 month old vehicle, we were pretty bummed. After hearing from a mechanic how much it could cost to repair, I was outright mad. After a few hours of my time and a small cost of $100, I anticipate I saved myself about $600 (on the low end, if the mechanic would have started with the actuator - not likely) - $1600+ if he had replaced other HVAC parts, computers, etc. before diagnosing the real problem! It's been about a week since the fix, and everything is still working well! Cheers! :beer:
 

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I posted last December...well I'm back. My front A/C and heater are working fine but my rear heater only blows cold air. The rear A/C is fine and it will cycle fine from top to floor to mix but no heat. Is there a rear actuator? Or is it one up front I need to be changing? I looked all over today on the net trying to find any info on a rear actuator and couldn't find anything!
 

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ls973800 said:
Yes, there is a rear actuator also. Never had to look for one but have read about it in a few posts. Might try a search on the various forums or look in the factory service manual.

Thank you so much! With your link and an Acadia forum we got it changed out yesterday (it won't let me post the link). Less than 2 hours and it was all put back together and functioning again.
 

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Thank you very much for this post. I am not a car guy but your detailed instructions and pictures gave me the confidence to make this repair and the understanding that I needed to diagnose my problem. I don't know why these actuators have to be in such a difficult location but I was able to get it all back together after a fair amount of frustration and dropped screws along the way. I lost my alternator at 66000 miles and I think the low voltage that occurred when the battery drained resulted in this actuator failure and possibly the failure of my windshield wiper controller as well. What a pain.

Thanks again. Now on to that windshield wiper ... right now it only works on high speed.
 

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bjones211 said:
Looks like a case of built in obsolescence ($45 part that most people would pay the dealer a ton of money to fix outside of warranty.
Everytime I see these posts for some reason I feel, this doesn't apply to our car. Yet each time, they do.

@ $400 a pop, one would think GMPP would pay off. But really, what excuse is there to use parts that don't last the lifetime of the vehicle? I saw someone open one up on youtube, and it looks like something out of a toy RC car. It's good that people can DIY if they have to, $400 ain't Trump change.
 

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Once again, my compliments on a very useful post. I would change one thing however. Before buying parts and taking things apart, go through the recalibration routine first. It just might save you a lot of time, skinned knuckles, and money. My HVAC started acting up and it sounded exactly like a bad actuator. But as far as I can tell, it was probably caused by disconnecting the battery for a car stereo installation, then after powering up again, unknowingly not letting the HVAC go through its recalibration routine (I had no idea it worked that way). I did the recalibration like this - Remove both the under hood and passenger kick panel fuses. (The tiny fuse on the passenger side is a bugger to remove and replace!) After removal, close all the vehicle doors (with the keys outside of the vehicle). The vehicle needs to "think" it has ended a driving event. Have a cup of coffee or cool one - at least 15 minutes. Replace both fuses (good luck with the passenger side interior fuse!). Start the vehicle and run it for two minutes - don't touch the HVAC controls. During this two minute run time the HVAC will recalibrate - it will come on set to 74 degrees with the rear and passenger modes selected. After the two minutes, shut it down, close the vehicle doors and let it sit again for a couple of minutes. If it was just a matter of needing recalibration, you'll be good to go. If you do in fact have a bad actuator, you can change them out as described in this excellent chain. Good luck!
 

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philziggy said:
Once again, my compliments on a very useful post. I would change one thing however. Before buying parts and taking things apart, go through the recalibration routine first. It just might save you a lot of time, skinned knuckles, and money. My HVAC started acting up and it sounded exactly like a bad actuator. But as far as I can tell, it was probably caused by disconnecting the battery for a car stereo installation, then after powering up again, unknowingly not letting the HVAC go through its recalibration routine (I had no idea it worked that way). I did the recalibration like this - Remove both the under hood and passenger kick panel fuses. (The tiny fuse on the passenger side is a bugger to remove and replace!) After removal, close all the vehicle doors (with the keys outside of the vehicle). The vehicle needs to "think" it has ended a driving event. Have a cup of coffee or cool one - at least 15 minutes. Replace both fuses (good luck with the passenger side interior fuse!). Start the vehicle and run it for two minutes - don't touch the HVAC controls. During this two minute run time the HVAC will recalibrate - it will come on set to 74 degrees with the rear and passenger modes selected. After the two minutes, shut it down, close the vehicle doors and let it sit again for a couple of minutes. If it was just a matter of needing recalibration, you'll be good to go. If you do in fact have a bad actuator, you can change them out as described in this excellent chain. Good luck!
Is there a particular fuse to pull?

I had my battery replaced a few months ago and ever since that point I have felt like the HVAC was acting unusual/funny. Wondering if this will help the unit.
 

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I have a 2010 Enclave with 60,000 miles. My issue is opposite of yours; my passenger HVAC is running cold even though the temp setting is for 70 degrees plus. Driver side works as it should. Couldn't figure out how to access the fuse panel to check fuse. Any suggestions on where to start on resolving cooling issue?
 
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