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recently had someone send me a PM, regarding pics I took of my actuator.
They wanted to know if I had info/pics that showed one of the resistors. They wanted to read the color bands.
They saw one of my pics on a google search and backtracked to find me.


They were obviously looking to replace just the resistor.
 

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Just wondering for those of you who've replaced the MODE actuator, did anyone attempt to move the door spindle by hand (before replacing the actuator?), and was it stiff?

I replaced mine this evening (was away on vacation!) and while trying to align the spindle to the actuator - I had to move the spindle manually into position, but found it very hard, and it felt like it wasn't turning the full way?

I've re-read through the posts, and saw that RBarrios said that some HVAC parts were warped, and I'm hoping that mine isn't one of them. I recall the blend actuator spindle moving very freely as I set it into position to put that actuator back on, but the mode door was very stiff compared.
 

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OK, so really regretting my purchase of this Buick. Love the look, love the power and luxury, but why SOOOOOOOOOOOO many problems!?

I know I have an AC problem, but wanted to fix all the small things first before attempting to tackle the ac, or bringing it somewhere only for them to mis-diagnose due to other faulty issues. I fixed a mode actuator earlier this week, and that went well. Today while trying to test/fix/fiddle with the AC, I found that the drivers side face vents were blowing VERY hot air, much hotter then the passenger side face vents. I thought it might be the drivers side actuator, and since it was much easier to work with, I removed it (it is in fact quite easy, but still requires a bit of contorting). I popped the cover expecting to see the notorious R1 resistor blown, but to my surprise it wasn't blown (BTW, color bands appear to be: ORANGE/ORANGE/BLACK/GOLD and the resistor color is green for anyone who may be thinking to just replace the resistor next time). The motor turns well also, so I put it back in, and tried turning the temp UP on the drivers side only, and watched to see if the actuator turned, which it did NOT.

My next test will have to be to bring the drivers side actuator over to the passenger side and just connect it with power and see if it turns via the passenger side controls.

Just wondering if I'm on the right path with the drivers side blend temp? is this controlled by the drivers side actuator?
 

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Decided to replace the drivers side actuator, so went ahead and order another 1 last night. Received new DRIVERS blend actuator today and replaced. Pulled the 15A HVAC fuse to reset, and all is good again with the HVAC.

Tested ALL modes, hot to cold, defrost to face to floor, including the rear, and pressed the re-circulation which triggered on and sounded fine.

Can't believe that 3 of the 4 actuators went bad in the course of just over a year - 2 went bad simultaneously, one on each side.

I didn't notice the recirculation actuator and its location until this ordeal, and wanted to make sure EVERYTHING was working before putting everything back together as this isn't a job I want to keep undertaking, but it also sure looks like a PITA to get to if/when it goes bad.

Has anyone else had to replace that actuator yet?
 

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Wait till you have to do the rears............. Did both at the same time even though only one was bad, because of the labor to get at them.
 

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ugghhh... I watched some vids, and yes those two back there do look U.G.L.Y.

Looks like the whole rear interior quarter panel needs to be removed, and the blower assembly needs to come out - which means the disconnection of the A/C lines as both actuators are on the fender side of the blower assembly! WOW.... thats just insane. I pray that I never have to replace those 2 (knocking on wood!).
 

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ugghhh... I watched some vids, and yes those two back there do look U.G.L.Y.

Looks like the whole rear interior quarter panel needs to be removed, and the blower assembly needs to come out - which means the disconnection of the A/C lines as both actuators are on the fender side of the blower assembly! WOW.... thats just insane. I pray that I never have to replace those 2 (knocking on wood!).

Didn't have to disc. ac, broke the speaker wire though removing interior panel, wouldn't un-clip initially......, drop the rear exhaust at hangers, unbolt underneath and you can tilt unit in from quarter panel in to get at them. Why no access panel inside and mount them towards the interior is beyond me. I'm getting ready to tackle the laminate discs on the switches in the TCM. Sonnax makes a kit. P0877 codes are popping up, delayed shift into drive and a stutter shifting in low gears. Inexpensive parts wise if it works. Looks like another pita access issue though. Probably working blind too. 195K on her, really have to expect some issues at this point.
 

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Video available for Traverse, similar to Enclave

Enclave friends. I bought a used 2014 Enclave with 52k miles, back in November. Great vehicle so far but not without a few hiccups. The latest being this passenger side temperature issue. After scouring the web and digesting this thread (thanks Nathan and others), I found the following video for a Traverse install, which should be very similar to the Enclave install. Hopefully it will help others. Going to try to install both driver and passenger actuators this weekend. Driver side seems to be headed in the same direction as the passenger side so might as well do both. HOPEFULLY the replacement parts are better than the OEM parts but I wont hold my breath. LOL.

.
 

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there are some units that get the HVAC assembly that warps...
making the doors hard to move... could be your issue.
On my drives side, I took off the actuator. I can't manually turn the little white piece with my hand that moves it from hot to cold. Something is stuck or warped. How in the world do you fix that.
 

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from other posts Ive read--- if I remember correctly ... it required dissasembly if the dash to get at the entire box.....
 

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I could not get the existing actuator to settle in the neutral position to align with the new actuator installation. I was required to run the temp control while the actuator was NOT installed to get the alignment to match. I then installed the new actuator in this alignment and the system seemed to respond as expected. Two days later I started experiencing the swing to HEAT only unless set at 60 degrees. I have tried the "reset" by pulling the fuse and will hope this calibrates the passenger temp.
 

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Prevent lost screws and tools

Hi, quick suggestion on not losing bits and pieces when in dash and replacing actuators. I taped all joints, screw etc on ratchet. But more importantly, I temporarily stuffed some plastic grocery bags into the areas I felt screws and bits would like to fall. Worked like magic, saved me twice.
Just remember to pull out bags before leaving the area.
:)
 

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Good pointers. I will have to remember the plastic bag trick when dealing with the fuse block behind the glovebox. I've lost 3 good fuses to under the carpet liner.
 

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Ya know, it's funny that this thread came back around in such a timely fashion. My driver side mode actuator is stuck in the hot air only mode....
This after I replaced the **** thing 2 or 3 years ago.
 

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Well, after reading and re-reading this thread several times, I replaced the passenger side temperature control actuator. I took my time and went through the procedure step by step and in three hours job was complete! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, plus a few others on YouTube.
 

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Well, after reading and re-reading this thread several times, I replaced the passenger side temperature control actuator. I took my time and went through the procedure step by step and in three hours job was complete! Thanks to everyone who contributed to this thread, plus a few others on YouTube.
I have changed the drivers side blend door actuator twice, it only took me about 10-15 minutes each time. I have a new actuator in there as of 2 weeks ago, but still intermittantly blowing hot air. May have to purchase another actuator and do it all over again.....
 

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Well, this story begins when my 2010 Enclave began blowing ONLY very hot air on the passenger side of the dual climate. Before I could even get to the dealer, the driver side also started blowing ONLY very hot air. Took it to them and they recalibrated the temperature actuators and told me that more than likely once they start acting up, they will have to be replaced. We got the A/C back for about 2 days, then back to the hot air. Quote from the dealer for the 2 actuators and labor was around $600. I decided to do some forum surfing and see other's experiences. I was able to find the actuators online for ~$45 per actuator, and spent a few hours to get the HVAC working normal again. I was able to troubleshoot which actuators were causing the problem by changing the various HVAC controls and seeing which actuators moved in response. I discovered both my Passenger and Driver side Temperature actuators were not moving to a colder temperature demand. Once removed, I took the actuators apart and found that the motors would only travel one direction (in my case full hot). Below is an explanation of how to change out actuators for the Enclave HVAC. Tools I used included needle-nose pliers, T20 Torx Bit for the mounting screws of the actuators, flashlights, and various screwdriver extensions/accessories.

To access the Passenger side Temperature actuator, the glovebox has to be pulled out. This is done by unlocking 2 tabs, pulling out the linkage for lowering, and pulling the glovebox up off the hinges.



The cover must be removed from the blower underneath the glovebox. 2 simple push-tab fasteners and the panel is free to be pulled out. I also removed the passenger side panel of the center console for a little extra room.



The Enclave has 4 actuators, 3 accessed from the passenger side and 1 accessed from the driver side. The Mode actuator (defrost, vent, mix, etc.), Recirc actuator (inside or outside air), and Passenger Temperature actuator (passenger air temp) are found on the passenger side.



Unfortunately for me, the Passenger Temperature actuator was the hardest to access. Small hands are a definite advantage that I did not have. I was able to get to one screw pretty easily, and a second screw with a little bit of angle (be careful not to strip out the screw head). The 3rd screw was on the side of the center console, with framework and plastic pieces in the way. I had to hold a T20 Torx bit in the screw with my thumb and back the screw all the way out using needle-nose pliers about 1/8 of a turn at a time. Once the screws are removed, simply unplug the wire connector from the removed actuator, plug in the new actuator, and line up the HVAC damper door with whatever position the new actuator is in. Since the actuator won't have power, you will have to position the damper door to line up with tabs on the actuator for proper installation. (do not energize the actuator prior to installation or it may go beyond its travel limit)



After looking at it for a while and dreading having to put the hard-to-reach 3rd screw back in, I came up with a simple solution. I drilled a 1/2" hole in the panel to the left of the glovebox that allowed a screwdriver the perfect alignment to tighten the 3rd screw. This hole will be hidden once the glovebox is installed again. I would highly recommend drilling this hole for removal of the 3rd screw. It would have saved me at least 30 minutes of fighting to remove a single screw.



The Driver Temperature actuator is the only one accessed from the driver's side. The lower panel was removed by removing the 3 push-tab fasteners.



The driver side seemed like a walk in the park compared to the passenger side. There was LOTS more room to access the mounting screws. This side took about 5 minutes.


Once the actuators were installed, I was able to get cool air again. However, the temperature seemed to be cycling from hot to cool every so often. Upon further online research, I found a possible solution. It was recommended to 1) remove the HVAC fuse for minimum 10 seconds 2) install fuse 3) start vehicle and wait 40 seconds for control module to self-calibrate. This fuse is found in the instrument panel fuse block, which is located under the instrument panel on the passenger side of the vehicle (below/behind the glovebox). This would be ideal to access and reset prior to re-installing all the panels and glovebox. This reset procedure ultimately got rid of the temperature swings. According to the Enclave Service Manual I was able to find on this forum, once the new actuators are installed, they are supposed to be recalibrated. Didn't find any further details on what exactly it takes to recalibrate, but I was getting my desired air temperature control after pulling the HVAC fuse and re-installing. I hope this post is a help to those having any control issues with the front HVAC system. The procedure would be identical, just a different actuator, if your HVAC won't change from defrost to vent to floor OR from recirc inside air to outside normal air. Hopefully this will give somebody the courage to attempt this repair for themselves, and spend maybe $100 instead the $600 the dealer was projecting. Happy Repairing!
im not good at following pictures would you mind pointing me to which actuator i need to replace, my issue is the defrost big wide vent up top driver side blows hot when i put 90 and cold when i put 60 but passenger side blows cold regardless of what temp i put on and that issue is only up top when i switch mode to front vents or floor hot/cold blows on both sides just fine so which actuator do i need to replace i replaced the visible one thinking thats it but it wasnt it i saw one more on passenger side tucked in behind some aluminum bracket which i have no clue how to remove i dont even see any screws for that actuator (hope thats not the one) and third one i dont even see thanks in advance. Btw i tried the fuse trick and that did nothing
 
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