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Awesome post! Five years later and it’s still educating us. I know it has been awhile since your post, but if you happen to have the pics for this, can you repost them? I’m going to attempt this as soon as I get my actuator from rockauto. Thank you!!!
 

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Thanks for the great detailed explanation - I reckon that saved me about $400 in dealer labor. My Enclave was stuck at defrost mode only. I bought Athe Dorman 604-140 from Amazon for $41 but I expect the cheaper $27 version would work just as well. There is no explanation of the difference on Amazon. I replaced the blend actuator in about an hour with your instructions. The screws drive into plastic so cannot be undone with just fingers. I could have saved a lot of time if I had a miniature ratchet with Torx bit. Instead I made do with a Torx bit and a short 1/4" box wrench taped together. I opened up the old actuator and found it had a burnt resistor on the circuit board. I see why you said to remove the blower case cover under the dash - that is how you get your hand in to get to the screws.
Thanks again.
Exactly my problem. 2012 Enclave stuck in defrost mode. So it’s the blend actuator I need to replace. 1st I heard there’s more than 1 actuator is this forum. Funny that autozone and Napa never asked me which actuator I needed when I called to check if it’s in stock. Hopefully the actuator that I see on the passenger side, left of glovebox, is the blend actuator. Anyway to ensure I’m replacing the correct one? (Going soon to harbor freight to buy cheap right angle tool.). — Rodger
 

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I don't have the $1k OBD scanner to test the circuits so I had Buick do it for me. Turns out, all 4 actuators did go bad simultaneously. Something about jumping the car spiked the actuators and they all went too far. (See the photo for details. The notches in the metal tube, identified with the red line, should not go past the indicators in the plastic housing, identified by the green lines.)

I replaced them all and everything started working again, though I still have wounds on my hands and wrists from the effort. (Process clarification: I replaced the battery at the same time so the system was without power for well over an hour during this endeavor.) I recommend taking photos of which wiring connector goes to which actuator if you're replacing more than one. On the passenger side, they are close enough together that it wouldn't be difficult to mix up the wires.

Also, I used the same model actuator from Amazon for all 4 positions.



8E2E7686-CE9F-472B-B6F5-1FC186894146_1_201_a.jpeg
 

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glad the jump start didnt fry the vehicles computers.
Thats why I no longer jump others with my vehicles.
 

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EXACTLY where is the driver side door activator located on a 2011 Acadia. Youtube and pictures show the activator but do not show exact location or how to expose the activator. I am pretty disgusted
 

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I installed the actuator on the driver side and removed the HVAC fuse. After 30 minutes, I put the fuse back in. Turned on the car. Set the a/c to Auto (it was off). Waited a minute. Turned the car off. Waited 15 seconds. Turned the car on. Held my tongue to the left, wiggled my right ear and tested the a/c controls. No improvement.

I’ll probably take another actuator out tomorrow and disassemble it. Sounds like a good way to spend my evenings.

BTW, anybody know how to test the sensor circuit in the actuator?
 

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I have the same problem and I am trying to recalibrate the a/c by removing the HVAC fuse beneath the glove box. I can't seem to remove the 15A fuse due to the design and close proximity of the fuse to the firewall. I have tried the fuse puller from the fuse box in the engine compartment and also needle nose pliers but it is impossible to get a grip on the fuse based on the angle of the fuse location. Anyone know the best way to remove??? I have noticed a few posters that have had success removing the fuse. Question is how and what tool enabled them to remove it???
 

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Do NOT, I repeat, DO NOT use metal tools to remove any fuse or part of a fuse, from a split fuse left behind in the minuscule fuse block. You can ground out easily to any bracing around the glove box, especially the metal cross bar along the bottom edge of the glove box and will fry other fuses and relays that will render your Enclave undrivable. It will probably start, but your power windows, radio, AC all will not work and anti theft lock for the gear shift selector will not let you shift out of park. This was my issue a couple years ago, and set me back 75.00 tow fee and a couple hundred for the dealership to replace fuses and relays.
I would hunt hi and low for plastic long needle nosed pliers to get the fuse out.
 

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Thank You for your reply...I have given up on trying to remove the fuse. I certainly don't want to cause the damage or problems you mentioned. I will just continue to disassemble the glove box area to remove and replace the blend actuator that is the most difficult to access...Thanks Again for your reply.
 

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Great post and idea to drill. Removed the actuator in 5 minutes.

When I replaced the actuator and connected everything, I tested different heat settings to watch the circular piece turn the door. Everything works fine again, except the blend door actuator does not immediately turn with different settings. The actuator turns a little, stops, turns more. It does not seem to continuously (smoothly) move through the range when adjusted from full hot to fold cold. For example when I change the vent settings the actuator in front of it moves continuously to the new setting. I'm thinking the door may have resistance and that's why the other motor may have burned up.

One more supporting piece of information. When using the main temperature control, not just changing passenger setting, the driver vents changed immediately from hot to cold while the passenger vents lagged behind a bit (that intermittent adjustment I spoke of above. Is this normal characteristics of movement anyone else has witnessed?
I have a problem with getting cold air on both sides of front of cab with cold air in rear of my 2012 enclave after changing battery. I seem to have lost program after battery was out of car for a few days. when i switch mode from defrost to dash to floor the blower blows out of correct vents but only hot air. I think it has something to do with the temperture actuator. any one knows witch one controls and location of temp. actuator
 

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Do a google search for 2012 Enclave blend door actuator. You will find drawings of its location, how to replace and then you can tack on the end of that search "part number".
Shop Ebay fofor it to find a good price. That's how I did mine.
 

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I bought mine on Amazon. They have one for $19.99 and I installed it in our Buick and it works just fine. This one is very difficult to remove and replace. I watched the YouTube videos and drilled the 1" hole through the glove box which is hidden when the glove box is reinstalled. All of the great information on this Forum and the YouTube videos are a truly worth reading and watching. https://www.amazon.com/Actuator-Rep...33------------&vehicleName=2012+Buick+Enclave
 

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I have an 08 enclave cxl that no matter what I hit for heat or ac nothing happens in the front. The second and third row turns on but nothing in the front. The ac light just blinks so does the circulation one and none of the other options I push do anything. I am pretty good at changing things myself but not sure where to start. I tried looking through the pages and pages of stuff on here but its so much and I didnt see anything that was the same as mine. I plan on trying to look at it more tomorrow after work. It doesnt make any noise. The lights turn on when I hit them but nothing happens. Thank you for any help you can offer. I dont want to go to the dealer and blow money when I can do labor myself. Id rather not just throw money at a ton of different parts. Was hoping someone had a similar issue and wondering what worked for them.
 

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Have you checked the refrigerant level? AC button usually blinks when it is low.
Have you checked the blower motor and its fuse? Chances are, there is water laying in the footwell cover under the glove box that covers the backside of the blower motor, and the motor is sitting in the water. Lastly, if water is an issue, it probably blew the fuse. And if it is water, the next thing would be to try and figure out where the water is coming from. Chances are, if yours has a sunroof, the A pillar drain tube is clogged.
 

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Does anyone have a wiring schematic of a 2012 Enclave of the Heat and A/C system air flow mode door and temperature actuators? How can you test an actuator out of the vehicle on the bench to proper movement? Once the actuators are removed, will I be able to manually move the mode doors to see I have sufficient A/C and heat?
 

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If you have no front A/C due to front mode doors, wouldn't the rear A/C work considering the compressor is working correctly? It seems odd that if the front isn't working due to mode doors letting warm are in when it should be letting in cold air, why would the rear air be hot too. What seems to take out these mode doors. Poor design$$$$$ Right!!!!!
 

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Just changed out the engine last week. Put a new timing chain, plugs, coils, AC Compressor in it. Now needs a new drivers side blend door actuator. That comes in on Wednesday. 7/29/2020.
 

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I just changed the passenger side air modulator motor. That is a job for a 4 foot tall 65 pound guy with hands the size of a 5 year old. Only a small bit of blood but it works now. Thanks for the instructions with pictures on how to do this job.
 
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