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We have a 2008 Enclave with 137,000 miles. For about six months it's been throwing the P0017 camshaft crankshaft position sensor error. There were some other issues which we've fixed, thinking it would solve all the problems, but this has persisted. Now we're trying to figure out what to do.

The local dealership says it'll be $2,000 to fix it. Essentially replacing the whole timing chain kit. A mechanic tells me that it could be another $1,000 if the cylinder head is loose and ends up needing to be replaced to get everything back together. The car's worth $7500 to the dealership.

So we're trying to figure out if we should sell for $7500 (we don't have lots of money), repair for $3000, or ignore the engine light. What's the harm in letting this ride? Any idea what the threshold is that this can be driven with the error?

Thanks.
 

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I'm sorry to read about your Enclave's problem. I'll defer this question to the more tech savvy forum members.

Also, :welcome: to the forum.
 

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if the vehicle is otherwise-- in good condition..
then prob repair it and continue to drive it for a long time.

what would a suitable replacement cost around your area vs 3000 repair vs 7500
 

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If it is only a bad sensor, then you would be OK driving it the way it is, but if the sensor is not faulty, and there is a stretched timing chain, then eventually you would start to get more codes, and finally engine might develop uncontrollable misfires. The engine control systems use the signals from these sensors to calibrate (true-up) the spark timing and fuel delivery for all of the cylinders. I think in worst case scenario, you would just experience lots of misfires. This is just my opinion, and I had been proven to be wrong from time to time. Good Luck and keep us posted.
 

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Thanks everyone. Wish I could tell if it's a faulty sensor, but apparently it involves changing it and then fiddling with the computer in a way my local mechanic cannot do. Asked the dealership about replacing the sensors and they said it comes in the kit. As in we'll do the whole job, not part.

Seriously considering selling it now. Even though driving with a few misfires doesn't sound too dangerous.
 

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Last Winter the P0017 code showed for a few days and then went off for a few weeks before coming on and off again. Vehicle performance was not affected. I have had a bad crank position sensor replaced in the past on another GM vehicle and assumed this was again a bad sensor. I took the Enclave to the local Buick dealer and within a very short time he quoted me $2,600 to replace the timing chain. It was obvious to me that he did not have time to check the sensors and had assumed the chain was bad.

I was uncomfortable with his conclusion as the code had come and gone a few times. I thought that if it was a bad chain, the code would come on and stay on. Also, the performance of the vehicle was not affected. I took the car back from the dealer and over to my local mechanic. He did some research and found that the Enclave engine does not like to run with low oil. The cam actuator sensor may not get proper lubrication with low oil and cause it to bind just enough to trigger P0017. Sure enough, my oil was down 1 1/2 quarts. As my mechanic had recently changed the oil, he was more than a bit embarrassed.

We filled the oil and he recalibrated the crank sensor and we have driven the car over 1,000 miles without a code. I think the key in my case was that the code came and went a few times and didn't stay on constantly. I've read about many timing chains being changed on this forum and many of them being covered by extended warranty. Mine was not covered. I'll be sure to post if the light comes back on, but I think my problem is solved.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Tom,

Ours also goes on and off. Seems to be 2-3 days on and then 2-3 days off. We did have the oil changed and flushed to try and solve this and that didn't help, but now I'm thinking we should get the sensors changed and calibrated first, considering it's a $100 fix instead of thousands.

Thank you for this reply, as our performance is also not affected.

Phil
 

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The trouble these days is that time pressures and fiscal constraints cause most techs to rely solely on codes for diagnosis rather than taking the time for visual inspection. Many codes are thrown for a variety of reasons, and the proper diagnosis requires additional inspection. In my opinion, the codes should serve only as a guide for the tech to start the diagnostic process.
 

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This questions is to TerribleTom4085, In your description, you pointed out that the Enclave engine does not like to run low on oil. You also said that you added more oil, and the crank sensor was recalibrated to correct the problem. How is a crank sensor recalibrated? But earlier in the description, you said that the cam actuator sensor may not get proper lubrication causing it to bind. I'm not sure how a sensor would bind, so that's why I'm asking. Is it the cam actuator sensor that was bound, or was it the cam actuator that was bound? Lastly, you said that the crank sensor was recalibrated to correct the code, but you also pointed out that the cam actuator sensor was bound. I didn’t see anything about repair of the cam actuator sensor or the cam actuator. As I read your description, the problem was with the cam actuator sensor, but the repair was done on the crank sensor (recalibrated). Would you clarify this? Thanks.
 

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There was an earlier post from TerribleTom4085 that I would like to check on added detail. Does anyone know how to recalibrate a crank sensor (as described in that earlier post)? Also, it was described as the cam actuator sensor that may have got bound due to low oil. I'm thinking this may have been intended to be the cam actuator that got bound, and not the sensor. The solution to the earlier problem was to add some oil and recalibrate the crank sensor. Why was a crank sensor recalibrated if it was the cam actuator sensor that was bound, as written in earlier post?
I'm thinking the cam actuator, or maybe cam phazer mechanism, is what actually would bind due to low oil level. I added oil to my 2011 Enclave (which was very low), and manually cleared the P0017 code with diagnostic tool, but the code returned after running a short time. Does anyone have any advice or further clarification? I did not do any sensor replacements or tests. If they are active sensors (which I believe the cam sensors are hall effect), then it is not so practical for home mechanics to evaluate. The engine runs fine, smooth at idle and into the throttle, but the check engine light is on.
 

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I have a 2011 enclave with the 3.6 in it. My enclave was sending the P0017 code. I was also hereing a chain slack noice coming from the passenger side of the motor. The first thing I replaced was the crankshaft sensor. The noise did not go away and the code came back. Then I changed the camshaft sensor. My enclave ran better for about a mile then the light came on and the noise was still there. Then I replaced the the timing chain and intake vvt sprocket because it had about a tooth or more slop in the sprocket. I tested the vvt solenoids and they are working. But I am still getting the P0017 code. I have read in the previous conversations that the camshafts will need to be recalibrated. Is resetting the codes not recalibrating it.
 

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I had a mechanic change the timing chain and guides etc last April 2018. Recently I have started having P0455 large fuel leak, P0016, P0017, P0018, P0019 all crankshaft/camshaft sensor related showing up. I changed the crankshaft sensor, but not the 4 camshaft sensors. I have been clearing the codes and ignoring them. MPG's are 13-15/gallon at best. Has a very loud low growling/throaty resonating overdrive exhaustthroughout the cabin - very annoying.
Being unemployed, can't afford to get it taken care of. Plus, we ate dealing with a major issue with the 09 Toyota Sienna from back over Thanksgiving travels that dealt with our local dealer replacing its radiator, and the engine overheating after 400 miles of travel to Michigan. Our van has been sitting a a Saginaw Toyota dealership since. Waiting on discussion from our dealer to that dealer and the area manufacturer reps getting their ducks in a row as to WHO is paying for an engine teardoen to see what else was damaged from the overheating. AND, who maybe psyong for all that repsir work or replacing the engine. What a nightmare.
 

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I just wanted to say that I had a similar issue with a Saturn Outlook 3.6 liter LY7 engine and it turned out to be a bad Mass Air Flow sensor. It threw four codes. P0017(Crankshaft sensor), P0171(Fuel too lean), P0101(MAF sensor), P0700(Transmission control system malfunction) as well as the engine idling up and down and stabilitrak and traction control
deactivations. I replaced the MAF sensor replaced the Air Filter and cleaned the Throttle Body. Once I did that all of the codes have gone away. I never trust mechanics and have always worked on my cars myself (Thanks a lot to youtube) and I'm convinced if I would have taken the car to a shop and all of these codes that were thrown from one bad MAF sensor that they would have totally taken advantage of me and quoted me $1,000's of dollars to make unnecessary repairs and simply did what I did (Which cost me about $50.00 to do and 30 minutes of my time) I just wanted to post this so if anyone else comes here with a similar issue do what I did, replace the MAF sensor and clean the throttle body before taking it in.
 

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I just wanted to say that I had a similar issue with a Saturn Outlook 3.6 liter LY7 engine and it turned out to be a bad Mass Air Flow sensor. It threw four codes. P0017(Crankshaft sensor), P0171(Fuel too lean), P0101(MAF sensor), P0700(Transmission control system malfunction) as well as the engine idling up and down and stabilitrak and traction control
deactivations. I replaced the MAF sensor replaced the Air Filter and cleaned the Throttle Body. Once I did that all of the codes have gone away. I never trust mechanics and have always worked on my cars myself (Thanks a lot to youtube) and I'm convinced if I would have taken the car to a shop and all of these codes that were thrown from one bad MAF sensor that they would have totally taken advantage of me and quoted me $1,000's of dollars to make unnecessary repairs and simply did what I did (Which cost me about $50.00 to do and 30 minutes of my time) I just wanted to post this so if anyone else comes here with a similar issue do what I did, replace the MAF sensor and clean the throttle body before taking it in.
Yup, I replaced the MAF last year. Now I'm faced with all 4 cam shaft banks throwing P0016, P0017, P0018, and P0019. I am also having a P0455 Large Fuel leak and P0461 Fuel Level Circuit A failure. I'm getting 12.4 MPG on average and a pretty bad case of misfiring causing rough idle. As i was told by the dealership last year that I needed a new engine, I had the timing chains and guides replaced by a repair shop that no longer doing mechanical work. So now, I am rethinking the engine replacement.
 
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