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Delivered Wednesday and installed them Saturday morning. Got a heck of a deal from a dealership in WA that was selling them on ebay. Brand new, pre-painted from GM in Crystal Red Tintcoat like our Enclave for $265 shipped. When we were shopping around I only saw one Enclave with them and really liked the looks of them, but that Enclave didn't have the tow package or 2nd row bench that we wanted.

Overall the install wasn't bad, just time consuming figuring out what the really poor instructions wanted. Most of the illustrations looked like they took a picture, ran it through the copier 50 times then faxed it to the shop that actually printed the instructions. Took me about 2.5 hours to install the drivers side then about 40 minutes to do the passengers side since I had the instructions figured out. Pro-tip, you're going to be spending a lot of time with the doors open, while opening and closing them, so use the little switch on the dash to turn off all your dome lights.

First step, jack up the car and remove the rear wheel so you have some room to work. the front wheel you can just turn all the way to the left when doing the driver's side and all the way to the right when doing the passenger's side.

Next take out the screws in the wheel well holding the splash guard to the existing rocker panel cladding.

Next pull back the weather stripping at the back of the rear doors where it overlaps onto the rocker cladding. Take your time here because these body pins get reused and if you try and rip them out you'll probably just tear the weather stripping. Only 3 need to be removed, just the ones that are attached to the cladding you're removing.

Next remove the existing rocker cladding. This is a pain. Even with a proper body clip removal tool there's just no good way to get behind the clips. I ended up just putting some masking tape around my flat pry bar and ripping the clips out. Working from under the car you can see where each clip holding the molding on and it's easy to get behind that spot and give the bar a quick pop to snap the clip. About 1/3rd of them came out undamaged but it doesn't matter because the new boards come with all new clips.

Here's the driver's side with the cladding removed:


Next you move on to prepping the new boards. First install the 11 new body clips in their slots. Really straight forward and obvious where they go. The instructions mention making sure a brace is locked in correctly and have an arrow pointing to some really blurry illustration. Here's what they're talking about. In the first pic my finger is pointing to how the brace should look, and in the second picture you can see how it was when they came out of the box. You just need to pop the tab back into the slot.





The part where I wasted the most time was figuring out what the vague instructions meant about installing the square headed bolts. They talk about the notches in the running boards and the illustration really looks like they mean in the plastic part that attaches to the side of the vehicle but that made no sense and the bolts would be in the way. I finally figured out the bolt was suppose to be slid into the channel on the underside of the board, into the channels on the aluminum piece, and that held the brackets in place. Finger tighten the nuts then back them off slightly because you're going to make the final adjustment on the brackets later on.

Next you install threaded insert rivets into existing holes on the doors where the brackets line up. This was the only illustration that actually was clear. It's a good thing since you only get one shot at installing these rivets. You just pop them into the hole in the rocker, slide an unthreaded nut over the bolt provided, then tighten the bolt into the rivet. The bolt has little teeth that grab the face of the rivet and when you hold the nut with a wrench and keep tightening the bolt it crushes the rivet behind the rocker panel. Torque to the specified torque then back the bolt out and repeat for the other 3, leaving you 4 nice new threaded holes to mount the brackets to.

The next step in the instructions is attach the boards to the vehicle using the push clips. Pro-tip, check the underside of your vehicle first to make sure some jackwagon tech didn't improperly jack the car up where the body panels are tacked together. They did in one spot on mine, and it happened to be right where one of the brackets wanted to rest. Lay your boards next to the vehicle and check to make sure that body flange is nice and straight where each bracket is going to be. It's easy to bend it back with vice grips if they're bent as long as you do it before the bracket is in the way. Once you're sure that's good it's best to have help on this step. I did the drivers side alone since no one was around by starting in the middle but did the passengers side with my wife holding the rear of the running board in place and starting at the front fender. This method was easier. There's a tab in the front and back where the running board panel tucks under the fenders so make sure to get that in place BEFORE you snap the the little body clips in place. I did the front, then the back, then all along the running board.

Next we go back to those brackets/bolts on the running boards you only finger tightened before. Slide the brackets so they line up with the just installed rivets and bolt them in place with the screws proved. Positions 1 and 3 get little stainless retainer clips (working from the front) while 2 and 4 just get bolts. Then go back under the car and tighten the bolts that attach the brackets to the running boards. While you're under there install the carriage bolts, clips and nuts that secure the bracket to the body pinch (the body pinch I suggested you make sure was straight before, that will now accept these clips with easy since it's nice and straight).

Next reinstall the screws in each wheel well. Everything should line right up.

Finally install the new weatherstrip provided with the running boards. There's a drivers side and a passengers side, and of course there is no markings on them or explanation in the instructions of which one goes where. You want the smooth side up and the side with the channel down. Look at the one on the cladding you removed if you're confused. You want the end with the push pin right at the very end to go to the rear and the end with about 2.5" of weather strip before the first pin to go to the front. You can see in the following picture why you want the push pin to be right at the end of the rear running board (so it lines up with the existing weather stripping). Push the pins for the existing rear door weatherstrip into the new running board panel. The existing strip has a little tab that inserts into the new running board weatherstrip to keep them nice and neat.


Repeat for the other side and you're done. They are REALLY sturdy and don't deflect at all when I stand on them. They're going to be really helpful when loading/unloading our ski box in the winter. My wife and daughter like them for getting in/out and while I'm tall enough to not need them at all I just have to teach myself to step around them or use them so I don't get my pants dirty brushing up against them. They look great, probably the biggest reason for installing them is how much they complete the look of the vehicle. While doing this DIY isn't for everyone if you're mechanically inclined I'd definitely recommend it as easily doable. As a software engineer I enjoy projects like this where I get to work on something physical from time to time. If you're someone who hates projects definitely have this done at a body shop or dealership. With the tips I gave that fill in the missing sections of the GM instructions this is probably a 2 hour job max.







 

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HINT: Driver and passengers need to actually USE the steps getting in and out and get used to doing it. The steps are great and really sets off the Enclave. But during the rainy/winter season if you don't use the steps and just get out putting your foot on the ground, you're gonna get your pants or legs dirty. They tend to keep water on top in the treads, and of course, the bottom gets all the dirt/mud on the bottoms. I had them installed on my 09 Enclave and you should feel good getting them so cheap. I had a body shop install them and glad I did. It took them all day to get them on.
 

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Discussion Starter #4




Finally allowed to post image links. Saturday morning going to tear into this project.
 

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They look nice and a good price too. Did it come with all the hardware? I would like to find a set for mine in Opal White.
 

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Yeah, everything is there to install them (brackets, new weather stripping etc) even pretty decent instructions for removing the existing rocker panel covers and installing these. No drilling required unless you break one of the front clips for the weather stripping, then there are instructions to drill that one clip hole out out and replace the clip with a screw.

I went to gmpartsdirect dot com and found the part number for my paint color (they have different part numbers for every color since they're pre-painted) then happened to get lucky and found a dealership selling this set brand new for less than half of what they normally cost.
 

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I like the look. Their going to add a nice look to your Enclave. I didn't have them on my 2011 but I made sure to get them this time around on my new 2017. I'm not real tall so I find the step makes it much easier entering and exiting the vehicle.
 

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I like them a lot, and think they look great with the rear splash guards, and the front ones as made per the template posted on this site.
 

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I'll update the first post tomorrow with an install writeup. Took about 3.5 hours, a little over 2.5 on the driver's side and about 40 minutes on the passengers side since I knew what I was doing by then.



Got busy on another project today, fixing a fuel pump issue in the boat. The new rig looks good all hitched up.

 

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Looks great!
 

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lucky you, what dealership you got this from? ty

JayS said:
Bump, updated post #1 with an install walkthrough and pictures.
 

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johnny1114 said:
lucky you, what dealership you got this from? ty
I bought them on eBay from this dealer:
http://www.ebay.com/usr/gmpartworld?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2754

But they only had the one set. If you're looking for a set find the GM part number for your paint color and start watching ebay for it. The crystal red tintcoat ones I got were 22876710 and the cheapest set on ebay right now is $618 shipped.
 

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thank you.

yes, no deals anymore, I have a 2016 leather awd w/ white frost tricoat, (as a newbie i'm not allowed to include links right now) eBay item# 282158775946 while the GM parts or other vendors list $750.

I understand currently no Like New items are available for 2016 White Frost, so right now I am looking for any white color available out there, e.g. White Diamond Tricoat (closer to the new White Frost Tricoat??) or even White Opal. but only driver side available, ebay item# 252707872123 for $100

JayS said:
But they only had the one set. If you're looking for a set find the GM part number for your paint color and start watching ebay for it. The crystal red tintcoat ones I got were 22876710 and the cheapest set on ebay right now is $618 shipped.
 

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They look great :thumb:

Where do you live ... up here it is presently a high of -20 and more snow then I care to think about :sosad:

Green grass .... lucky guy ;D
 

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I'm in Williamsville, just north of Buffalo, NY. This thread was started back in Oct, no green grass here now.
 

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Thanks. They're mostly aesthetic being the step in height isn't high on an Enclave but they're handy when loading and unloading my ski box.
 

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chriscaldwell11 said:
Are the molded assist steps available for a 2008 Enclave CXL? Thank you!
Yes they are available. We had them on our 2009 CXL (same as your 2008). They come in different colors to match the cladding on the bottom edge of the vehicle. Check with your local dealer for part numbers then go online to shop for them.
 
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