EnclaveForum.net: Buick Enclave Online Community banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
.[/color]



I've had persistent problems with water leaking into the interior and have had the 2008 Enclave to the dealer on three occasions to address the issue.
It still leaked, and now that I was beyond the CPO warranty, I wasn't about to let them try a fourth time. I needed to track down where the leak was
coming from and that involved removing/lowering the headliner to visually inspect the drain tubes and windshield surround.

Here's what was happening:




There was also some water visible on the driver's side B pillar. I really had to solve this problem!

I had already caulked around the roof's rear stationary window and under the two roof rails to no avail, so the next step was to do some minor surgery
and get a look above the headliner.

I'll suggest you read this whole DIY before starting, just to get your bearings on what needs to be done and to mention a couple things to watch out for.

To start, here are the tools I ended up using for the job:




Narrow Pry Tool
Small Eyeglasses Screwdriver
T15 Torx driver (aka 'star' bit)
Flashlight
Standard Pliers
Ratchet set with 7mm, 10mm, and 5/16" sockets


I didn't disconnect the battery for this job, and didn't experience any ill effects. Others might suggest otherwise, but it's handy to have the seats
repositioned at various times to support the lowered headliner and to access trim pieces, so I left the battery connected. Using the seats also makes
this a one-person job. At all times, the third row seating was completely lowered--you won't need those seats for support.

As you are slowly lowering the headliner, be mindful of wiring or tubing that should to be unplugged or rerouted so as not to damage it.

The headliner is fastened to the roof by a number of panels, pillars, rubber trim, and strategically placed velcro.

I started disassembling from the front of the car and worked toward the rear. First, I detached the flexible disc-shaped trim pieces around the sunvisor
arms. They are easily removed by hand--just twist it from around the metal arm.

[IMG]


Then use the Torx tool to remove the three bolts that are now visible.

[img]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/Visor2_zpsbae2a7fa.jpg~original


You may need to push each of the two small plastic clips with the eyeglass screwdriver to disengage the visor base. I found a little tugging was
enough to lower the visors from their receptacles. They are still connected by electrical wiring and you can't get to the harness connections to unplug
them until the headliner is lowered further, so I let them hang there for the time being.

Next, I carefully pried the center lighting/instrument panel downward with the pry tool. It will rotate downward and come out of its receptacle.




Unplug the green harness and set the lighting panel aside.

[IMG]


Next, carefully use the pry tool to disengage the 'airbag' trim panel on the driver's side and on the grab bar on the passenger side.

[img]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/ApillarDS_zps4c04be2c.jpg~original




Use the appropriate socket to remove the bolts you've just uncovered.






You'll see the A pillar trim loosen up. Holding the trim near the top, pull it upward and then toward the center of the car. Lay it down across the
dashboard.






Repeat for the A pillar on the other side.

Next, use the mini screwdriver to pry back the cover on the visor retainer and then unbolt each of the two retainers.

[IMG]


You'll notice the headliner start to sag. Careful pulling on the headliner will lower it a bit. You will need to gently release the headliner from the
surrounding rubber trim working from front to rear as in this image:

[IMG]


Once the headliner lowers enough in the front, you can look above it and get your hands in there to unplug the visor electrical harness on each side.
Then the visors can be removed and set aside.

Next, use the pry tool or mini screwdriver to remove the 'airbag' plastic covers on the B, C, and D pillars. Repeat for the other side of the car.
Note that I had removed trim pieces around the seat belt straps in some cases--that may not be necessary.

B pillar:

[IMG]


C pillar:

[IMG]


D pillar (shown prior to plastic panel removal):

[IMG]


Unbolt the pillars and firmly pull and detach them from the rest of the structure. It may help to loosen the bolts at the top and bottom of the grab bars.

Passenger side B pillar:

[img]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/BpillarPS_zps6b4a9805.jpg~original


Set the pillar trim pieces down and out of the way.

Driver side B pillar:




Next, by hand you can rotate the plastic vent covers 90 degrees and remove them. Then remove the bolt.




Remove the two small hanger hooks.

[IMG]


Finally, there are three light panels along the center of the roof that will need to be removed. These are somewhat stubborn since they're not only
clipped to the headliner, but also to the roof itself. Place enough downward pressure on the headliner and you can successfully disengage the
retainer clips from the roof. In the image below, the red arrows point to the retaining clips that attach to the roof.

Next, you will pull the light panels from the headliner. You will pry the front-most one downward from the front of the panel, the center one pries downward from the
rear of the panel, and the rearmost panel is pried downward from the front. Don't ask me about the logic behind GM's engineering choices here, but that's just the
way it was in my car. It's possible your car could differ in how the panels are pried loose, but I had no idea which way they were to be pried before doing it and I
didn't break anything in the process.

Before completely removing the panel, you'll need to disconnect the electrical wiring. These plugs are stubborn and are held together by a retaining flap. You'll
need to use the mini screwdriver to pry the plastic flap away to unplug them. Also, in prying the panels loose from the headliner, some of the gold colored clips
slipped off the panel--just reseat the clips as you see in this image of the front-most panel.

[IMG]


The rear collision warning panel does NOT need to be removed from the headliner.

Slip the rear roof seat belt through its slot and lower the rear end of the headliner. You may need to unclip part of the drain tube in the rear to allow the headliner
to be lowered without putting too much stress on the drain tube.

At this point, the headliner is fully supported by the front and center seats and should look similar to this image:

[IMG]


You're now ready to hose down the car and determine where your leaks originate from. For this part, my wife hosed the roof while I sat in the driver's
seat and looked for any signs of leakage. I could easily poke my head up through the sunroof opening in the headliner and see all the drain tubes.

In my particular case, it only took about 10 seconds for a leak to appear, and it wasn't from any of the drain tubes. It was from the upper windshield
area as discussed in this thread:

[url]http://www.enclaveforum.net/index.php?topic=21610.0[/url]

Of course, reinstallation of the headliner is the reverse of these directions. Remember to reroute electrical wiring and reclip drain tubes to their original
configuration as you work from the rear to the front.

I hope you find this DIY helpful, and if you have suggestions for improving it, please respond to this thread.




.[/color]
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,166 Posts
That is a terrific illustrated post! :notworthy:

I hope that you are finally successful in stopping this problem. If you do, your dealer should pay you for you time and trouble due to their three times failed professional effort. :sosad:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,825 Posts
All that work, and it wasn't even the sunroof!! So....is that winshield the original, or had it been replaced? If not the original, not much recourse with GM. But I hope, for all the rest of us, it is not the original, because this means even our non-sunroof Enclaves will not be immune from water leaks. :mad:

And one question: What are we seeing in the photo of the air vent? I would think it would be plastic ducting, but that looks like there is not much space between the vent and the ceiling, and that gray material with the bolt. :shrug:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
48 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Thanks for the positive comments.

The windshield had been replaced by Buick, supposedly. They charged me $100 even though it was under the CPO warranty at the time (so maybe it was a replacement of a replacement?). Anyway, they failed to stop the leaks by replacing/resealing the windshield, and by extending the drain tubes. I've gone this far, so I'm just going to complete the job myself rather than mess with Buick yet again.

Regarding the vent, it is fed air from the rear, so where my hand is in the photo is where the air comes through. There's about 1" of depth there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,825 Posts
cngizbleevng said:
Thanks for the positive comments.

The windshield had been replaced by Buick, supposedly. They charged me $100 even though it was under the CPO warranty at the time (so maybe it was a replacement of a replacement?). Anyway, they failed to stop the leaks by replacing/resealing the windshield, and by extending the drain tubes. I've gone this far, so I'm just going to complete the job myself rather than mess with Buick yet again.

Regarding the vent, it is fed air from the rear, so where my hand is in the photo is where the air comes through. There's about 1" of depth there.
OK....so not original from the factory windshield, if I'm reading right. This makes me really hope I never get a stone chip, and if I do.....I'll try and get the chip fixed, not replace the glass.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,166 Posts
kidsenclave said:
OK....so not original from the factory windshield, if I'm reading right. This makes me really hope I never get a stone chip, and if I do.....I'll try and get the chip fixed, not replace the glass.
I have replaced 2 windshields; one on my 2003 Outback and one on my 2006 Tribeca. I guess that I've been lucky that they were installed properly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
881 Posts
And I have had the windshield replaced in my S-10 twice. No problems either time with leaks. Now, if only this one is rock proof.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
21,166 Posts
PaPas Truck said:
And I have had the windshield replaced in my S-10 twice. No problems either time with leaks. Now, if only this one is rock proof.
Rock proof. :hilarious: You'll have to wait until the invention of transparent aluminum. ;D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
This is a fantastic post but many of these images have been removed or are simply not there any more. I have this issue with my car. Any chance you could refresh the pics on this page or send me the pics directly?

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Would also love pics refreshed or sent to me as well if possible. Thanks you and great write up. I’m getting ready to tackle this project
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
553 Posts
That post was from 6 years ago and the original poster hasn’t signed in here in 10 months. Probably out of luck on getting an update. Another great thread ruined by photobucket’s nonsense.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
.[/color]



I've had persistent problems with water leaking into the interior and have had the 2008 Enclave to the dealer on three occasions to address the issue.
It still leaked, and now that I was beyond the CPO warranty, I wasn't about to let them try a fourth time. I needed to track down where the leak was
coming from and that involved removing/lowering the headliner to visually inspect the drain tubes and windshield surround.

Here's what was happening:




There was also some water visible on the driver's side B pillar. I really had to solve this problem!

I had already caulked around the roof's rear stationary window and under the two roof rails to no avail, so the next step was to do some minor surgery
and get a look above the headliner.

I'll suggest you read this whole DIY before starting, just to get your bearings on what needs to be done and to mention a couple things to watch out for.

To start, here are the tools I ended up using for the job:




Narrow Pry Tool
Small Eyeglasses Screwdriver
T15 Torx driver (aka 'star' bit)
Flashlight
Standard Pliers
Ratchet set with 7mm, 10mm, and 5/16" sockets


I didn't disconnect the battery for this job, and didn't experience any ill effects. Others might suggest otherwise, but it's handy to have the seats
repositioned at various times to support the lowered headliner and to access trim pieces, so I left the battery connected. Using the seats also makes
this a one-person job. At all times, the third row seating was completely lowered--you won't need those seats for support.

As you are slowly lowering the headliner, be mindful of wiring or tubing that should to be unplugged or rerouted so as not to damage it.

The headliner is fastened to the roof by a number of panels, pillars, rubber trim, and strategically placed velcro.

I started disassembling from the front of the car and worked toward the rear. First, I detached the flexible disc-shaped trim pieces around the sunvisor
arms. They are easily removed by hand--just twist it from around the metal arm.




Then use the Torx tool to remove the three bolts that are now visible.

[img]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/Visor2_zpsbae2a7fa.jpg~original


You may need to push each of the two small plastic clips with the eyeglass screwdriver to disengage the visor base. I found a little tugging was
enough to lower the visors from their receptacles. They are still connected by electrical wiring and you can't get to the harness connections to unplug
them until the headliner is lowered further, so I let them hang there for the time being.

Next, I carefully pried the center lighting/instrument panel downward with the pry tool. It will rotate downward and come out of its receptacle.




Unplug the green harness and set the lighting panel aside.

[IMG]


Next, carefully use the pry tool to disengage the 'airbag' trim panel on the driver's side and on the grab bar on the passenger side.

[img]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/ApillarDS_zps4c04be2c.jpg~original

[IMG]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/ApillarPS_zpsca2bd622.jpg~original


Use the appropriate socket to remove the bolts you've just uncovered.






You'll see the A pillar trim loosen up. Holding the trim near the top, pull it upward and then toward the center of the car. Lay it down across the
dashboard.






Repeat for the A pillar on the other side.

Next, use the mini screwdriver to pry back the cover on the visor retainer and then unbolt each of the two retainers.




You'll notice the headliner start to sag. Careful pulling on the headliner will lower it a bit. You will need to gently release the headliner from the
surrounding rubber trim working from front to rear as in this image:

[IMG]


Once the headliner lowers enough in the front, you can look above it and get your hands in there to unplug the visor electrical harness on each side.
Then the visors can be removed and set aside.

Next, use the pry tool or mini screwdriver to remove the 'airbag' plastic covers on the B, C, and D pillars. Repeat for the other side of the car.
Note that I had removed trim pieces around the seat belt straps in some cases--that may not be necessary.

B pillar:

[IMG]


C pillar:

[IMG]


D pillar (shown prior to plastic panel removal):

[IMG]


Unbolt the pillars and firmly pull and detach them from the rest of the structure. It may help to loosen the bolts at the top and bottom of the grab bars.

Passenger side B pillar:

[img]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/BpillarPS_zps6b4a9805.jpg~original


Set the pillar trim pieces down and out of the way.

Driver side B pillar:

[IMG]http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c211/cngizbleevng/BpillarDS2_zpsb34b0690.jpg~original


Next, by hand you can rotate the plastic vent covers 90 degrees and remove them. Then remove the bolt.




Remove the two small hanger hooks.




Finally, there are three light panels along the center of the roof that will need to be removed. These are somewhat stubborn since they're not only
clipped to the headliner, but also to the roof itself. Place enough downward pressure on the headliner and you can successfully disengage the
retainer clips from the roof. In the image below, the red arrows point to the retaining clips that attach to the roof.

Next, you will pull the light panels from the headliner. You will pry the front-most one downward from the front of the panel, the center one pries downward from the
rear of the panel, and the rearmost panel is pried downward from the front. Don't ask me about the logic behind GM's engineering choices here, but that's just the
way it was in my car. It's possible your car could differ in how the panels are pried loose, but I had no idea which way they were to be pried before doing it and I
didn't break anything in the process.

Before completely removing the panel, you'll need to disconnect the electrical wiring. These plugs are stubborn and are held together by a retaining flap. You'll
need to use the mini screwdriver to pry the plastic flap away to unplug them. Also, in prying the panels loose from the headliner, some of the gold colored clips
slipped off the panel--just reseat the clips as you see in this image of the front-most panel.

[IMG]


The rear collision warning panel does NOT need to be removed from the headliner.

Slip the rear roof seat belt through its slot and lower the rear end of the headliner. You may need to unclip part of the drain tube in the rear to allow the headliner
to be lowered without putting too much stress on the drain tube.

At this point, the headliner is fully supported by the front and center seats and should look similar to this image:

[IMG]


You're now ready to hose down the car and determine where your leaks originate from. For this part, my wife hosed the roof while I sat in the driver's
seat and looked for any signs of leakage. I could easily poke my head up through the sunroof opening in the headliner and see all the drain tubes.

In my particular case, it only took about 10 seconds for a leak to appear, and it wasn't from any of the drain tubes. It was from the upper windshield
area as discussed in this thread:

[url]http://www.enclaveforum.net/index.php?topic=21610.0[/url]

Of course, reinstallation of the headliner is the reverse of these directions. Remember to reroute electrical wiring and reclip drain tubes to their original
configuration as you work from the rear to the front.

I hope you find this DIY helpful, and if you have suggestions for improving it, please respond to this thread.




.[/color]
[/QUOTE]
Thank you for posting this step by step post .very helpful.Very well done
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top