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Got a oil change done at a local Canadian tire, after that the low pressure light kept coming on at stop signs or red lights and would shut off as soon as I started driving again, so today I did another oil change but used a fram toughgaurd and it no longer does that due to a valve in the new oil filter, the cheap brands do not have the valve at bottom of the inside of the oil filter. So far so good so maybe try that before replacing oil pressure sensor ,save money and time
 

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FYI Motomaster Oil and Air Filters are made for CT by Fram..... I'd recommend you get the Mobil 1 filter if buying from CT, or find a NAPA and get Wix... Or, depending on where you are, find an APC and get an AC Delco.
I used to work for CT when I was in College, their filters and Fram entry level are garbage, try to avoid them. Always remember, you get what you pay for.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Oh ok I did not know that,that thanks for the info, but what I was getting at is if it doesn't have that backflow valve it will cause the sensor to trip, same thing happened on my dad's avalanche a few weeks ago
 

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I am not going to buy Mobil1 filters anymore, they are made by Champion Labs. Check this Out >>>>>Stuff On Sale!!!
I think I will get the Baldwin filters from now on.
 

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I am not going to buy Mobil1 filters anymore, they are made by Champion Labs. Check this Out >>>>>Stuff On Sale!!!
I think I will get the Baldwin filters from now on.
As far as Canadian Tire goes for selection, there isn't alot to chose from. They also carry Quaker State, but are low end like the Motomaster. If I hold onto my E for a while longer, I'll just get them from the dealer, or order them online for the ones I want. I only run full synthetic as well, I learned that lesson many years ago.
 

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You guys have NAPA auto parts out that way (I see them sprinkled all over google maps in Alberta)? Their store brand are just repackaged WIX and are great filters. Metal caps, solid anti-drainback valves. Their the only filter I've used for probably 10 years on cars and boats.

 

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May want to double check if ALL NAPA filters are WIX. As far as I know their Gold filters are WIX. Not sure about their lower priced Silverline.
 

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I always buy Fram UltraGaurd filters and use Castrol Edge full synthetic oil for both my Enclave and my Silverado. Enclave has never had an issue. With ACDelco filter in my truck I had low oil pressure. Changed to fram and had almost 20 psi more pressure. Only found this out after replacing the oil sending unit. 😒
 

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This thread took an interesting stance on citing an oil filter as the fault for a low oil pressure warning light coming on at idle speeds after reaching normal operating temperature. In my opinion, there is more going on here than citing the local Canadian Tire oil filter used. The valve referenced by dudevinman I'm interpreting as being an internal oil filter bypass valve (could also be an anti-drain-back valve, not sure). Neither of those come into play regarding causing significant pressure drop across the oil filter so as to cause very, very low oil pressure downstream of the filter. It may be possible this cheap oil filter has an element that is slightly more restrictive than others - but it was also new at the time, meaning it was the least restrictive it was ever going to be when first installed. If it caused the observation of the low oil pressure warning light to come on after warmup at idle speed, the system pressure is already way too low compared to normal. A slightly less restrictive oil filter may remove the oil pressure warning light from coming on for now, but I'm thinking the overall oil pressure of that engine is very low right now and is on edge to come on again with the replacement oil filter.

What year Enclave is involved here? How many miles (or kilometers) are on the odometer? What weight oil was used at Canadian Tire, and what weight oil was used whne dudevinman changed it again, and what weight does Buick recommended for it (I'm thinking Buick has recommended 5W-30 for all the 3.6L engines they've ever made since 2008, but not sure). Maybe time to do an oil pressure check using a gauge to understand better what is going on. A worn set of crank and/or cam bearings may be causing excessive oil clearances causing the low pressure. Or something with the oil pump/pickup screen may not be right. I cheap, somewhat higher oil flow restrictive oil filter wouldn't cause the issue stated in an otherwise healthy engine - in my opinion.
 

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I cheap, somewhat higher oil flow restrictive oil filter wouldn't cause the issue stated in an otherwise healthy engine - in my opinion.
I kind of thought the same thing, except for the glaring fact staring us in the face that he changed the oil and filter and the problem with the low oil pressure warnings stopped, and it only started right after Canadian Tire changed the oil. Clearly something with that filter or the oil that Canadian Tire used made a big difference.

I am curious how much oil came out when it was drained, and if it was possible the "automotive technician" that Canadian Tire pays not much even put the right amount of oil in.
 

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So a few things to know about Canadian Tire.... if you are getting their basic oil change, you get a Motomaster Filter (low quality) and bulk conventional oil. And you are getting the mechanic wannabe doing the work, not even an apprentice. (they are called "installers" there, they do oil changes and tires). If you are getting other work done AND the oil change, you get a mechanic. However, the mechanics are flat rate, and there are multiple in the shop competing for their livelyhood. Ie, they will cut corners where they can to make more money. When i worked there, I was the "back window parts" guy, getting the mechanics the parts they needed for their jobs. I saw some mechanics make 20 hours of pay in an 8 hour day. Not the ideal environment to take you car to unless you know and trust the mechanic. (you can request them) I had 2 I trusted in a shop of 10 mechanics and 4 installers.
Chances are as JayS mentions, the installer didn't add enough oil combined with poor quality parts and oil....
This isn't to say that CT is always horrible, they can be good. The one closest to me has the road force balancer and do it for $20/tire, which is quite cheap here. (thats about $5 USD right now...lol) Everyone else in the area wants $50/tire
Like someone else mentioned before, I only use Castrol Syntec (german) in mine, and a good quality filter.
 

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Clearly something with that filter or the oil that Canadian Tire used made a big difference.
I don't think it made a big difference at all. It may have made a slight difference involving when the oil pressure switch activates or not - and that difference could be slight to make the change. Unless one knows actual oil pressures, we don't really know. Assuming the oil level was proper when Canadian Tire did the change, I think there is something else going on that hasn't been noticed until this particular event happened. From putting the proper amount of oil in the engine, I would almost lean towards the potential of an overfill - if significantly overfilled, the rods may be splashing the oil in the pan, causing aeration, which certainly would affect oil flow and pressure through the engine very negatively. So the question about how much oil came out is a good question - if there is knowledge of this by who did the following oil change.
 

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I don't think it made a big difference at all. It may have made a slight difference involving when the oil pressure switch activates or not - and that difference could be slight to make the change. Unless one knows actual oil pressures, we don't really know. Assuming the oil level was proper when Canadian Tire did the change, I think there is something else going on that hasn't been noticed until this particular event happened. From putting the proper amount of oil in the engine, I would almost lean towards the potential of an overfill - if significantly overfilled, the rods may be splashing the oil in the pan, causing aeration, which certainly would affect oil flow and pressure through the engine very negatively. So the question about how much oil came out is a good question - if there is knowledge of this by who did the following oil change.

@90AllTrac Looks like you might be right about bigger issues.
 

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I would be getting a socket with a rachet on the crankshaft bolt holding the harmonic balancer and see how difficult it is to move the engine manually. It should be difficult in the rotation when each piston is in the compression mode, but in between those occasions (3 spots per crank rotation), it should be easy. If difficult, don't try starting it again. A starting problem could be an electrical problem with the starter, but the fact the engine stalled just before gives me the feeling something bad has just happened. Why they don't have oil pressure monitoring on engines in this day and age of electronic control systems is beyond me.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Bought it used with 262xxx, 2012 awd, previous owner had the oil changed before I bought it so I don't know , oil was also leaking a bit from drain plug due to worn out ring,butI kept it topped up till I did the change ourselves,also the oil pressure sensor is stripped like someone tried before and used wrong tool so I need advice on how to get that out now also,we have the sensor socket but might have to use a easy out? It's well rounded so no grip at all
 
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