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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
iA Big Hi to all of you. I just bought a fully loaded CXL, except engine block heater, Cocoa with cashmere and AWD. Have been enjoying the camaraderie and assistance between members since discovering this forum.
Had originally belonged to an Avalanche forum since 2002 but have trade it in for the Enclave. Had it for five years and hated to loose it, it was a great all around truck but bad gas mileage, took up too much room in the garage and everyone wanted to borrow it for one thing or another. Plus they gave me $1000 over blue books excellent condition value with employee discount.
Only have 90 miles on it right now but have come up with some questions. First, what brand and part number, other than GM, PF48 would be suggested for old changes and how soon I can start using synthetic oil. Also does any body have a concern about the large open areas between the waterfall grill as to how large and hard a truck or car can kick up a stone to damage the radiator? If so any suggestions?
Really like the looks of the GM color keyed side steps but does anyone know of a better price or discount?
Next, is the an available locking gas cap out there for the Enclave, say from a different model that would fit, all the auto shop around here say its not listed.
And last anyone know of a screen protector for the navigation screen like they have for PDA's that removable. All the PDA ones are too small.
 

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The Malt
Welcome to the forum :thumb:
Enjoy your Enclave.
I am sure your questions will be answered shortly.

MRBUICK
 

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You're right about the large spaces between the grill, if you don't put something there the fins of the radiator will get full of bugs and road junk and will eventually get flattened resulting in cooling system performance loss. I looked at mine and i think i am either going to snap out the grill(looks fairly easy) and line the inside of the grill with a non-metallic window screen material, or I may fasten the screen to the top edge of the black plastic form that is around the front of the top of the rad. and just let it hang down kind of like mud flap.
 

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Hey Malt,
Congrats on the 'Clave.

I have had a couple Navi cars now and have not had any issues with screen damage, just fingerprints.

We have the same Enclave as you do and purchased the molded assist steps ata discount over list and about 2 hours labor for the install, they look nice and help smaller kids climb in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks MRBUICK, ENCLAVEDHF & JOHNT26 for your replies they were greatly appreciated but is everybody satisfied with the factory oil filter and no one concern about easy accesses gas caps at today’s gas prices. And think about the size of stone that can fit between that water fall grill strait to the radiator.
 

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The Malt said:
Thanks MRBUICK, ENCLAVEDHF & JOHNT26 for your replies they were greatly appreciated but is everybody satisfied with the factory oil filter and no one concern about easy accesses gas caps at today’s gas prices. And think about the size of stone that can fit between that water fall grill strait to the radiator.
Most of us haven't gotten to the first oil change yet!

I have the same questions about synthetic, I have an older sports car that just had a top overhaul, the race shop that did the work felt 4,000 miles was adequate for the break-in so we changed to Mobil 1 then.

I have no experience with synthetic blends, is it the best or worst of both worlds ???...any feedback, Big "Oil Man" Larry maybe ;D
 

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Factory fill is likely to be synthetic, given how the rest of the industry has gone. Current recommendations from all of the top engine manufacturers is to leave it in until the first oil change interval specified in the owner's manual. I have never seen an aftermarket oil filter, except perhaps the Mobil 1 product, that is routinely considered better than an OEM filter.

As far as type of oil, Mobil 1 makes a heavy duty truck/SUV version of the specified 5W30 which has the GM6094 spec necessary for the Enclave. The engine is a bit more stressed as a 3.6 liter in a 5,000 lb. vehicle, so it may be the best oil to use. Any other opinions?

TM
 

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I would normally change the oil at 1000 and then change to synthetic at 3000 and every 5000 after that. Most likely over-kill but cheap insurance IMO. I did this on my 01 Tahoe and she has 203K on now and still burns no oil in the 5K between Mobil 1 changes. Also I have noticed on all my new vehicles, the mileage has improved over the first 5K so it takes a little bit to get it broken in and sealing good.

Regarding the radiator, I like the suggestion about non-metallic screen.
 

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cruiser68 said:
I would normally change the oil at 1000 and then change to synthetic at 3000 and every 5000 after that. Most likely over-kill but cheap insurance IMO. I did this on my 01 Tahoe and she has 203K on now and still burns no oil in the 5K between Mobil 1 changes. Also I have noticed on all my new vehicles, the mileage has improved over the first 5K so it takes a little bit to get it broken in and sealing good.

Regarding the radiator, I like the suggestion about non-metallic screen.
Even though there is no evidence that this approach is any better than the manufacturer's recommendations, it may be a waste of resources and may actually cause more harm. Independent testing by members of www.tdiclub.com imply that oil additives may take a few hundred miles to become fully effective, since more metallic compounds are found in suspension when oil is changed more often, and proper synthetic is good for well over 15,000 miles.

There have been studies of synthetic oil that have just added oil, filter changes, with engines going way over 500,000 miles. Oil related failures are extremely rare with proper maintenance and if they occur, have more to do with use of non-synthetic oil and design problems such as sludging and hydraulic lifter problems from too thin or thick an oil.

TM
 

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cruiser68 said:
I would normally change the oil at 1000 and then change to synthetic at 3000 and every 5000 after that. Most likely over-kill but cheap insurance IMO. I did this on my 01 Tahoe and she has 203K on now and still burns no oil in the 5K between Mobil 1 changes. Also I have noticed on all my new vehicles, the mileage has improved over the first 5K so it takes a little bit to get it broken in and sealing good.

Regarding the radiator, I like the suggestion about non-metallic screen.
I'm pretty sure that this has been beat up pretty well in other areas of the forum but...

This particular race shop builds lots of engines and wanted to see some decent mileage on the motor with the break-in organic oil before switching to synthetic....
 

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johnt26 said:
I'm pretty sure that this has been beat up pretty well in other areas of the forum but...

This particular race shop builds lots of engines and wanted to see some decent mileage on the motor with the break-in organic oil before switching to synthetic....
Rebuilt engines, especially race engines and older design engines, are totally different animals metallurgically and do need a different break-in. Agreed.

TM
 

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Tin Man said:
Rebuilt engines, especially race engines and older design engines, are totally different animals metallurgically and do need a different break-in. Agreed.

TM
TM,

What about newer engines? Don't rings still need to seat and all the parts in the VVT heads need to get happy with each other ???

There is a ton of confusion about the break-in period..it runs the gamut from "drive it like you stole it" to one of the most robust modern engines out there..the Infinity G35 that recommends: "baby it for 1200 miles".
sorry about the :hijacked:..maybe we should take this outside...we don't want to get in trouble with the GMs ;D
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Having all this said about the break in period before changing to synthetic or getting in trouble with GM, how do you explain the Corvette and Cadillac's coming from the assemble line with Mobil 1 synthetic????? ???
 

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The Malt said:
Having all this said about the break in period before changing to synthetic or getting in trouble with GM, how do you explain the Corvette and Cadillac's coming from the assemble line with Mobil 1 synthetic????? ???
Porsche too comes with M1..I can't explain it, I was hoping someone could. I've heard that those (Mobile 1 at delivery) engines are "run-in" on a stand at the factory ???

By "GM" I meant "Global Moderator", I'm already in trouble, keep it down or she'll hear all the commotion and realize we hijacked this thread! >:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Can't believe they would run every engine for a complete break in on a stand change to synthetic and than drop them in a car.
 

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must be different metallurgy as TM alluded to...maybe a 30 minute break-in is all those engines need..anyone ???
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If it is metallurgy as TM alluded too, doesn't the Cadillac STS and CTS come with the 3.6L engine as the Enclive :-\
 

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Tin Man said:
Even though there is no evidence that this approach is any better than the manufacturer's recommendations, it may be a waste of resources and may actually cause more harm. Independent testing by members of www.tdiclub.com imply that oil additives may take a few hundred miles to become fully effective, since more metallic compounds are found in suspension when oil is changed more often, and proper synthetic is good for well over 15,000 miles.

There have been studies of synthetic oil that have just added oil, filter changes, with engines going way over 500,000 miles. Oil related failures are extremely rare with proper maintenance and if they occur, have more to do with use of non-synthetic oil and design problems such as sludging and hydraulic lifter problems from too thin or thick an oil.

TM
I actually used oil analysis at every change to determine the optimum interval for a change. For my truck and my driving habits the oil started to breakdown at about 5000 miles according to their testing. I don't believe I'm wasting any resources basing changes on actual testing instead of a guess. Besides, he asked for an opinion. I'm happy with the results of over 600K on my last 3 vehicles. To each his own.
 

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Actual published results of oil testing by members of the tdiclub forum, some engineers, shows that in at least diesel engines, the synthetic oils that meet manufacturer specs are good way past 15,000 miles. This can be different under different driving conditions.

As far as metallurgy, yes, the word has been that rings and cylinder liners (Anodized, Nikasil, new alloys etc.) are treated and don't need the same type of "wear in the rings" break-in when they were closer to cast iron. What metal particles in the synthetic factory fill there are may actually do this anyway. I've owned several Porsches and Mercedes etc. and break-in is quite different than the old school "change the oil at 500 or 1000 miles" that used to be in the 1960's and 1970's. I do hear about engine rebuilders, especially older engines, needing to "seat the rings" using dino oil at first so it probably is the fancy metallurgy that is the difference in the new engines.

Also, unleaded low sulfur fuel has protected oil from acid breakdown compared to the past, so longer intervals are definitely OK.

But if you have data that describes increased wear factors after 5,000 miles, it would be better if you publish it including specific oil used, model year and miles on engine/rebuild etc. I never feel good enough to disagree with manufacturer recommendations, nor do I ever have better data. Manufacturers USED TO spell out a short oil change interval at break-in but no longer do.

Cheers,

TM
 
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