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Have you cleaned the connections on the battery lugs before battery replacement and checked all the connections between the battery and the starter solenoid? You may also want to check the voltage at the starter connection before, during and after the start cycle. I haven't read about very many starters going bad on these forums, only a few. I had an 08, eleven years old and 212k miles, never had a starter issue, but then every year has their one or two components which may arise to be problematic.
 

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More to add on this issue.... birthday weekend for my youngest, going out to find him a requested "cheesecake" for his birthday cake. First stop is about a 7 minute drive, turn off the car, no good for cake, get back in and starts up no issues. Drive to second location, closer to a 15 minute drive. In th store maybe 4 minutes, come out.... no start. Starts to turn over, then stops. wait 5 minutes, still no go.... 10, no go... Friend lives close by, comes to boost us. Initial boost attempt, no go. Let his truck charge for 10 minutes, away it goes. Okay, I bought it a year and a half ago, no history on the battery, all signs point towards it, so off to Costco for a new one. Change it out, clean all connections, even upgraded the battery to a higher CCA battery (useful in the great white north) Notice that the battery I'm pulling out is only 3 years old by date code... Sunday runs fine in the couple of trips I took. This morning, remote start to warm the car and defrost windows (icy and snow last night) Starts fine, but I end up running the complete 10 minute cycle (dog took too long to come in), now I head out, try and run its second remote cycle while I clear the windows.... slow turn, then nothing. Won't restart via remote start, won't open the hatch, but unlocks the doors fine. Get in, starts fine by the key..... now I'm thinking I wasted $150 on a new battery (will know when I get the old one tested), and still have a concern about getting stranded again.
 

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That it's fine when it's cold is telling. The more heat you put in the more resistance you have on electrical conductors. Borderline starters often work when cold then fail when hot. But it could also be a bad connection on one of the larger wires going to the starter. When it's cold it's fine but as it heat soaks it expands and the connection gets weak. Combined the weak connection with the higher resistance and you get a no start. Let it sit long enough that it cools down and it starts again.

Check the wires over really well and consider measuring their resistance while you tug at them to see if you get any disconnects. If that's fine at a minimum take the starter out and have it tested. Even getting it tested though I'm not sure how much you can trust it because obviously it will be cold when you take it in.

Assuming a load test shows the alternator and battery all fine and you can't find any issues with the starter wires at that point I'd probably throw in a new starter.
 

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I wish I could relate this to hot and cold (and I don't mean ambient), but it seems to have no consistency. Couple that with 9 years of Canadian winters, and "removing the starter" becomes a much harder job. (yep, we use salt here in Ontario) I could start the car and drive 2 blocks away and stop for coffee. (approx less than 2 minute drive) and it will turn very slowly at the coffee shop. I could easily put my hand on the engine still, its cold (not so much on the exhaust manifold I'm sure) I'm now at 145,000 kms.... so maybe I need a starter.... but should I really? The time it didn't start on Saturday was tell tale of a low charge battery. However, after the drive home, it started fine.... (charged by the alt) Its the intermittent that is driving me nuts. If it did it consistently when the engine was hot, I'd understand. But that's not the case. I've been wrenching on cars for 30 years, and this one boggles me. There have been mornings where it hasn't fired up first try.
 

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Start your car and put a multimeter on the battery terminals. You should be getting about 14v if it’s significantly less than that say 13.3 or less then your alternator is bad or the wires between the alternator and the battery are bad. You can check those wires by leaving the black lead of the multimeter on the negative battery terminal and putting the red lead directly on the nut at the back of your alternator where the battery wire is connected. The reading there and at the battery positive terminal should be the same.

Sounds like your alternator is headed out on a vacation and a new battery solved the problem for a day or two and then the new battery became discharged like the old one was.
 

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Thanks, but have already done that check, alternator output is where it should be. Remote start continues to work first thing, but seems to be sluggish turning over. I have a feeling JayS is right on the starter, which is not what I want to have to deal with. I'll be testing the "old" battery to verify.... and being from Costco, probably take the new one back! :p (they will take anything back here)
Then the question of the day, do I want to deal with replacing the starter, or is this the last straw for me with the E......
 

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If it is the starter I can’t really fault Buick. It’s a 9 year old part with 90k miles worth of starts that has lived through Canada’s salty winters. Starters and alternators fail for all brands.
 

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As true as that may be JayS, my 2007 CX-9 had 273,000 kms on it when I sold it, never had to touch the starter, 150,000kms on the wife's old 2006 Escape, traded in at 12 years and never a starter issue.... In fact, the only vehicle I had a starter issue with in the past was my old 1965 Oldsmobile Dynamic88.... which was over 30 years old at the time! lol I'm not saying they don't go, but this would be a first for me in many years... 25 years to be exact. (lucky maybe, I'll admit that)
 

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Okay, update on the situation.... JayS got it right I'm pretty sure, was the starter. Although I did not replace it with a new/rebuilt one, I got a used one from a 2016 Sonoma with 60,000kms on it. The job took about 1.5 hours with hand tools, removing the front cat, oil filter and sensor hiding behind the oil filter. Could likely have shaved half an hour off with an air ratchet, but my compressor won't run air tools.
Once installed i noticed the difference right away. This new one turns the engine over with ease, where the old would sound laboured. Just a completely different sound altogether, quiet, strong and quick. What always got me was the vehicle acted like a low battery situation, but never did get a "click click click" when it wouldn't start, which is more common of a low battery. I confidently feel this situation is taken care of.... now on to the rest of the Enclave "to do list".... (sway bar links, leaking strut to deal with, hesitation or another bad motor mount condition....)

Now to see if I can take the new battery back to Costco....
 

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Have you cleaned the connections on the battery lugs before battery replacement and checked all the connections between the battery and the starter solenoid? You may also want to check the voltage at the starter connection before, during and after the start cycle. I haven't read about very many starters going bad on these forums, only a few.

I had an 08, eleven years old and 212k miles, never had a starter issue, but then every year has their one or two components which may arise to be problematic.

For more information on sway bar disconnects please visit the website here www.jeepzine.com/best-sway-bar-disconnects-for-jeep/
The positive cable connects the positive "+" battery terminal to the starter solenoid. Often, a poor connection at one of the battery cables can cause the starter motor not to run.
 
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