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Discussion Starter #1
Newbie here, first time poster;

Shifter works without binding going from Low all the way to Park, however, when going from Park to any gear, it binds and makes a ratchet type noise.

Any ideas?

Also what do you need to remove to get to the shifter? And how do you get all those panels off?

And suggestions appreciated!

Thanks.
 

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No doubt other will say the same -- dealer - 2010 - it is a warranty job - let them break stuff.

Alternatively - it could be n adjustment made underneath at a linkage or cable.
 

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+1...definately dealer...warranty issue...don't touch anything except your phone to make an appointment ;)
 

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foxfield said:
Newbie here, first time poster;

Shifter works without binding going from Low all the way to Park, however, when going from Park to any gear, it binds and makes a ratchet type noise.

Any ideas?

Also what do you need to remove to get to the shifter? And how do you get all those panels off?

And suggestions appreciated!

Thanks.
Welcome to the forum. :) I, too, would simply take the car to the dealer for what is likely a simple fix. Good luck, and keep us updated.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the suggestion about the dealer.

My 23010 has 45K miles and according to the dealer's service department, no warranty left except power train.

And for sure, shifters are not in 'their' definition of power train.

So, anyone have an idea about how to get into console so I can clear up the shifter problem?
 

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+1 Agree!

Yep Enclaves are 4 years or 50,000 miles which ever comes first.
 

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Binding or Noisy Shifter
January 8, 2009 8:44 PM
Some owners of an Acadia, Enclave, Outlook or Traverse may comment on an intermittent squeak noise coming from inside of the automatic transmission control assembly or center console or the shifter is difficult to operate. Diagnosis may reveal a sticky residue on the external exposed surfaces of the automatic transmission control.


This condition may be caused by a sticky residue from a beverage spill on the shifter rooster comb, detent spring, or other components internal to the transmission control assembly (fig. 4 and 5).





AÂ Detent


BÂ Rooster comb


Don't replace the transmission control assembly.
Clean the transmission control inner and outer surfaces with Leather, Vinyl, and Plastic Cleaner (p/n 88861401 -- 24 Oz. Spray Bottle or 88861405 -- 8 Oz. Spray Bottle.Â


TIPS:

1. May need to depress the detent spring to clean it


2. May need a small brush


3. Have a damp clean cloth available.


4. Use a blow gun to air dry


5. Perform electrical check after cleaning
 

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Discussion Starter #11
My thanks to all!

Did call back to dealer AFTER repair folk had gone home.

You all are correct; salesman said bumper to bumper was still in effect and wanted the name of the
'individual' who had misinformed me.

Told me to bring the Enclave in and they would fix the problem.

However, due to past experience (not with an Enclave) with this dealer, if someone could tell me how to get the console covers off, I'd do the job myself.

Those folk are notorious for finding 'something' else wrong . . .

Thanks again, really do appreciate the help.
 

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If it was me I would

check that there was no spill associated with the fault - if undertake surface clean - and deny everything

if not take it to the dealer, as the warranty is still in place if they find something justifiable then let them fix it - if they start making stuff up - let Buick Customer Services know - it is someones money - although presently not yours.
 

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NEVER take anything apart if it is still under warranty!!!!!! This is from a Journeyman Auto Service Tech. If you do and something more major is wrong and they find out (and sometimes it is easy as warranty seals and locktite can tell the tale sometimes depending on what you take apart) the warranty will not be honoured as they will say that you did it. IF a dealer keeps finding things wrong, find out if it is a warranty fix (mechanics hate warranty fixes as they are a flat rate set by GM and I assure you they are spot on with the time it takes to fix so the mech makes no money on these), if it is not see another dealer or do that anyway. IF you can't trust your dealer always go to another one. I would even write GM about a dealer that is nickel and diming you. GM is very good with customer service and will investigate if there are enough complaints. If going to a mechanic that is attached to a parts store BEWARE they always find things that need to be replaced. In the end you are the customer, tell them that nothing gets replaced without your prior approval and if they find something else you want to know before they do anything about it and if it sounds fishy just say no fix what I brought it in for or get them to show you. I went to midas once for brakes on my car (Sometimes it is cheaper for a place that specializes to do the work Like, brake, muffler, and Lube, then to do it yourself) and they told me I needed to get my CV boots replaced because they were torn. I asked to see them and when I looked it was obvious they had been torn with a screwdriver. I dragged the shop manager out there and ripped into him and he fired the mech on the spot and did the repair for free. Just because they say it is broken doesn't always mean it is and if they say it is going just remember it is not gone yet.
 

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The warranty is for 50,000 miles, go back to the dealer!
this may not work for others but I sprayed a little WD40 on the track and wiped it clean. then I sprayed a very minor amount at the base of the shifter. two shifts later and no more grinding noise when going from park to drive.
 
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