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Discussion Starter #1
I just spent $75 for a local detailer to touch up my new Audi Q3's scratched front bumper. While the tech stayed inside the lines and applied a more even touch up coat than I've ever achieved, there are still some rough borders where the factory paint was scraped. Also, the touch up finish looks flat instead of glossy because the tech didn't want to apply the clear coat before allowing the paint to dry for at least two days. For a smaller additional fee, I can return for clear coat application.

So, basically, I paid a professional to apply my touch up paint more neatly than I can.

I'd like to get some thoughts on my experience.
 

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Gold,

I posted this in another thread -- DrColorChip really is amazing stuff. They have a kit specifically made for large areas (like road rash on the front bumper):
http://www.drcolorchip.com/store/road-rash-paint-chip-repair-kit.php

I didn't expect much when I ordered it but it's actually simple to use. I have been using it to touch up scratches on my new Silverado with dark green paint (very hard to blend) as they happen and it has been doing a great job!
 

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Another vote for DrColorChip. When we got our XLR, there were numerous stone chips and rashes on the front lower fascia and one big chip on the top. It took several applications to get the chip in the top fixed, but now it's virtually invisible. Best part is it's blended and dries glossy, not flat. Very easy to use and great results
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I viewed the DrColorChip video, and the repair process looks quick and effective. But, how well does it work on exposed bumper plastic? Also, how well does it mask raised jagged paint at the edges of the scrapes. Finally, how durable is the finish compared to EOM paint?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
tngeebee said:
Dr.Color Chip does not work well on lighter color cars. Tried it on a silver color and it just will not match. Best for dark colors.
Ok. Thanks for the tip. My car is white.
 

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tngeebee said:
Dr.Color Chip does not work well on lighter color cars. Tried it on a silver color and it just will not match. Best for dark colors.
It worked just as well on our WDT Enclave, and that's a hard color to match :eek:
 

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Shoulda had it blended...... ;) :D

Anyway, touch-up never really comes out perfect.....BUT there are some things the "tech" should have done before applying the paint.

He should have either used a razor blade (if the plastic was rough) or 1500 wet sandpaper (if just the paint was rough) very carefully to smooth it out.

He should have also told you to keep the car there for an hour or two to get more coats of the base touch up applied because (as I'm sure you have seen by now) the paint has "shrunk back" since he first applied it.

You should have at least 3 coats of the touch up applied before the clear. When the clear is applied, I would wait a week then have that whole area wet sanded and buffed. They should "hide" it better.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ckta said:
Shoulda had it blended...... ;) :D

Anyway, touch-up never really comes out perfect.....BUT there are some things the "tech" should have done before applying the paint.

He should have either used a razor blade (if the plastic was rough) or 1500 wet sandpaper (if just the paint was rough) very carefully to smooth it out.

He should have also told you to keep the car there for an hour or two to get more coats of the base touch up applied because (as I'm sure you have seen by now) the paint has "shrunk back" since he first applied it.

You should have at least 3 coats of the touch up applied before the clear. When the clear is applied, I would wait a week then have that whole area wet sanded and buffed. They should "hide" it better.
The "tech" had the car for about 90 minutes. The car was sent through the car wash, then the scraped areas were supposedly buffed. The areas with jagged/raised paint borders are better than before, but still a bit rough looking. I think that two coats of white touch up were applied.

From a distance, the damage is undetectable, but is obvious within a few feet from the car. It does look significantly better, but I think that more can and should be done.

BTW, I took this approach instead of the $800 option offered by the body shop that the dealer uses. I'm not expecting perfection at $75, but I am disappointed that the result is only a little better than I could have done myself at no cost.
 

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I would put 2 more coats of the base on then, wait a week then the clear, wait another week and just use some POLISHING compound on the area followed by wax. (done by hand.)

I think going back to the dealer will be a waste of time and money. :(
 
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