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Hi,

My 2011 CXL just rolled over 100k so I'm thinking of doing the plugs & coils. I bought it at 75k and it's running really well so I'm wondering if the plugs have already been done. Of course there were no maintenance records (I asked) but the dealer assured me "everything had been done". The parts are about $275 so I'd rather not jump on this unnecessarily.

How can I tell if I need new plugs & coils other than waiting for it to start throwing codes?

Thanks!
 

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Hi,

My 2011 CXL just rolled over 100k so I'm thinking of doing the plugs & coils. I bought it at 75k and it's running really well so I'm wondering if the plugs have already been done. Of course there were no maintenance records (I asked) but the dealer assured me "everything had been done". The parts are about $275 so I'd rather not jump on this unnecessarily.

How can I tell if I need new plugs & coils other than waiting for it to start throwing codes?

Thanks!
Plugs - 100k, coils no need until you need

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk
 

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Do the plugs.
I did my plugs at 100,000.
I didnt do the coils.
My factory coils still going well at 154,000.
 

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Do the plugs and coils now. Once they start failing and misfiring they all go one by one and if you drive the car too far with the misfires it takes out the catalytic. The plugs and coils kind of go together in one assembly. If you are going to do the work do both on all 6 cylinders. The parts are not that expensive but the labor is a killer. If you can do your own service do it. If you can't, don't spend the money, dump the car.
 

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I have approx 137xxx KM (approx 85000 miles) on my E, and also want to do my plugs. Was supposed to do this year, but time got away from me, and now its super cold - so will do in the spring. Whats the consensus on using anti-seize on the threads AND/OR dielectric grease on the coil boots? yay or nay..
 

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Nay on anti-seize on the plug threads, you need good conductivity. Dielectric grease on the boots is good.
 

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AC/Delco’s position on anti-seize
AC spark plugs should be installed dry. Do NOT use any type of anti-seize lubricant on spark plug threads. Anti-seize lubricants decrease the amount of friction between the threads, resulting in over tightening. That can cause the spark plug to move too far into the combustion chamber (in crush washer applications). Over-tightening can also distort the spark plug shell, causing a leak which would allow blowby to pass through the gasket seal between the shell and insulator. Over-tightening also results in extremely difficult removal.
 

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also- the Plugs- ACDELCOs are made by NGK, The Iridiums I believe theyre called.
They use a Trivalent anti seize plating.
 

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Understood - Thanks RB and electbc!

The plugs I have (as I posted a long time ago) are NGK IX plugs - which are the most accessible and popular plugs here in Canada (available at any and all car part stores). AC Delcos (as well as all others) are available too, but more leg work is usually needed if you want those, and oddly they usually cost more.
 

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Take it from me... 2011 Buick Enclave CXL... the above people gave you excellent advice. The only additional info. I would add is ... if you are changing your plugs yourself. If that is the case, I would change the plugs and coils at the same time. The reason is that to change the plugs on your model, you have to remove the manifold and it certainly takes a bit longer to get to the plugs. While you are there, you might as well change the coils as well - they are not that expensive. Additionally, do NOT use any other spark plug other than the AC/Delco OEM spark plug. I tried using Bosch platinum ones and kept experiencing misfires. When I replaced the new Bosch ones with AC/Delco OEM plugs, the misfires went away. Also, from reading the forum, misfires (which cause the CEL to come on) are fairly common after 100K. Lastly, (hat tip to rbarrios) - you should be using Techron Concentrate Plus in your gas every 3,000K or at least every oil change to keep the carbon away and the misfires from happening. You will notice a difference in how your engine runs from the Techron. I now use it in all of my vehicles.
 

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My neighbor has an Acadia Denali with 175K on it. He told me that this Mechanic told him that he has a Honeycomb Buildup of Carbon on his valves, they tried to chip away at it to no avail. I heard the thing when he started it up, yuk. He doesn't want to spend the money on it, they will be in the market for a newer vehicle soon.
 

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Walnut blasting job abut $400-- is what a member claims a shop charged to do a clean up on the valves.
 
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