what batt brand did you go with?

 

I bought the Advance Auto brand - 7 year prorated warranty (full replacement first 3 years). $136.89. Also has a few more CCA than the OEM.

 

had the vent tube and top post and all?

 

Did you lose any pre-sets when you disconnected the battery?

 

The battery in my 2009 Enclave just went bad, and instead of paying the dealer almost $400 to replace it (and leave the car with them overnight), I decided to do it myself. I've replaced batteries in a bunch of different cars (including the traction battery in a Civic Hybrid, but that's a different story) so I didn't think it would be to hard. The first and most critical part of the process is...finding the battery!

The Battery for the Enclave is in a well under the floor behind the front passenger seat. Here are the instructions on how I did it, including a download of some Buick shop manuals for illustration. It's not too hard to do if you take your time and pay attention. If you still have a little power in the battery, slide the front passenger seat all the way forward and tilt the seat back all the way forward before you begin. This will give you more room to work when removing the battery from the well.

Tools required: T27 TORX Driver, 10mm Socket and driver, 1/2 Socket, 12" socket extension

1) Locate the Battery cover on the floor behind the passenger seat. You'll need to remove the floor mats and passenger middle seat floor track trim (just pull up on the trim and it will come up.
2) Using a T27 TORX driver, remove the single bolt holding the cover. The bolt looks to be aluminum. Set it aside with the compartment cover.
3) Using a 10mm socket and driver, remove the nut on top of the negative cable terminal. The negative cable is the black one. Next disconnect the three wiring harness connectors from the negative and positive (red) cables. Remove the positive cable terminal nut using the same 10mm socket and driver.
4) Remove the negative and positive cables from the battery. The terminal clamps may be a little tight, but just wiggle it back and forth until it loosens enough to take it off.
5) Disconnect the battery vent tube from the top side of the battery (facing the rear of the car) .
6) Using a 1/2 socket and 12" extension, remove the battery hold down clamp. It is at the bottom of the battery side, facing out. Take the bolt and the rubber clamp out of the battery well
7) Lift the battery out of the car. This is harder than it sounds. You may need a second person to hold the cables and carpet out of the way.

Installation of the new battery in reverse order, making sure to place the new battery in the battery well with the positive terminal closest to the front of the car. .

An added step, before you disconnect the battery, might save you some extra work. Go to Walmart and get a 9 volt battery attachment assembly that plugs into the cigarette lighter....about $7.00 or so. Put this assembly (with 9 volt battery) in the lighter socket before removing the car's battery connections. This will save all the radio station selections, prevent the alarm from sounding when the new battery is connected, etc. After installing the new car battery, remove the 9 volt cigarette lighter assembly and put it away for the next time---or, in my case, I keep forgetting where I put it...I hope you find this useful.[/color]

 

I just replaced the battery in my 08Enclave.....first battery replacement in 5yrs 6/mos & it was still going strong. I thought I may be pushing my luck so decided to replace it with a Duralast/Gold 8yr battery. What surprised me was that I didn't lose any of my radio presets, the only thing that had to be reset was the clock. I also agree with the original poster that it is easier with 2 people helping to keep the cables out of the way. They don't give you any extra room!

 

I had my E in for service a few weeks ago. I asked to have the battery tested - original battery, 5 years of service - they told me the battery tested very good, no need to replace it. I think 5 years on a battery, and it is still healthy, is pretty good!!

 

The 5+ year old battery in my Enclave seems as strong as new. Recent cold weather starts are as easy as ever. The 6.5 year old battery in my Subaru Tribeca still seems okay, but cold weather starts might be a little less robust this winter- maybe...

 

Question , my 2009 enclave decided to not start today , have no power period . Key was in the ignition in the garage ( all night) . Seems to be some security thing as cannot turn key or pull key out . When foot is on brake pedal cannot move shifter . cannot do anything , Gave wife ride to work and will work on it when i get home . Wonder where to start battery , etc????

 

Did you figure it out because mine did this same exact thing cant get keys out!! No power at all!

 

no power= no power to move solenoids for the brake/trans safety shift mechanism-- and the keys solenoid.


being a 2009-- im sure the batt was nearing the end of its useful life- and coupled with the cold weather and leaving the key in the ignition-- it got a nice good drain.
It would not be wise to reuse this batt- and just get a new one--- once you can get to it.

I usually replace my OEM factory batteries at the 4 yr mark... thats just seems to be a special number with factory batts... .from all the reading Ive done on GM forums.

I know some factory ones go 5-7 yrs... but... I prefer to do the 4 yr mark-- so im not stranded somewhere.

 

no power= no power to move solenoids for the brake/trans safety shift mechanism-- and the keys solenoid.


being a 2009-- im sure the batt was nearing the end of its useful life- and coupled with the cold weather and leaving the key in the ignition-- it got a nice good drain.
It would not be wise to reuse this batt- and just get a new one--- once you can get to it.

I usually replace my OEM factory batteries at the 4 yr mark... thats just seems to be a special number with factory batts... .from all the reading Ive done on GM forums.

I know some factory ones go 5-7 yrs... but... I prefer to do the 4 yr mark-- so im not stranded somewhere.

Good advice here, even though I have yet to heed it on my current vehicles! The battery in the Vette is still the OEM original; I can tell on cold starts that it is getting weak. This is way better service than I have historically seen on an OEM Delco battery. Past experience has been 2-1/2 years and it's shot; this one is right at 6 years old now. We still have the original battery in the E also and it's 5 years and 4 months old.

I know I'm living on borrowed time on both of them; I'm not too concerned about stranding myself, but the wife will be pi$$ed if she ends up stranded (ask me how I know :facepalm.

 

I do agree , cheap fix if i can just replace battery . I did initially think battery was under hood by upper passenger side , but glad i checked on here first . Won't have to spin my wheels looking for it now .

 

We bought a GM thinking that American cars are less expensive to maintain.

Wow. $400 to replace the battery? The BMW cost $280 (it's in the trunk and has all kinds of electronics hooked up to it that a shadetree can break), and the dealership has to reprogram the vehicle so that it knows what type, what rating, and when the battery was replaced. There are folks on my forum who DIY'd with any old battery (saving a whopping $120 to $180). Next thing you know the car continued to charge the new battery as if it were 6 y.o., i.e. overcharge. And people complain about how much BMW charges.

Buick $400, BMW $280. something isn't right.....

Thanks OP for the write-up....

 

I usually replace my OEM factory batteries at the 4 yr mark... thats just seems to be a special number with factory batts... .from all the reading Ive done on GM forums.

A load test reveals if a battery is good or not. I don't think there is any way to estimate by time, although I think what you're saying is the $$$ is not significant to you if say you replace at 4 yrs., but it would have lasted 7. The battery is subject to so many differing conditions that imho a load test removes the variables and gets to the skinny....

 

Replaced the battery in the 07 Outlook at 3 years 2 months and around 36,000 miles.

Now the 03 Saturn replaced the battery (yes original) this year, yep 9 years and 11 months and 80,000+ miles.

 

Living in the heat down here, is as bad or worse than the cold up north on batteries. I've never had one last past 5yrs, and 4yrs is usually the tops. These all being 7yr warranty batteries.

That being said, I let them go 'til they die. Get a jump start and head straight to the dealer if it's still under warranty (yes it's included if it's in the bumper to bumper and not past battery warranty date.) Or straight to the local Autoparts store for a load test and replacement. If it's one I bought from the autopart store the warranty is there on record and knocks the replacement cost down a good bit.

One nice thing about it with autoparts stores and batteries, is that it's now a full service situation :thumb: - at least for most of the stores. They remove, load test and install the new one w/o charge. It's probably been 10yrs since I pulled one out myself.

 

We bought a GM thinking that American cars are less expensive to maintain.

Wow. $400 to replace the battery? The BMW cost $280 (it's in the trunk and has all kinds of electronics hooked up to it that a shadetree can break), and the dealership has to reprogram the vehicle so that it knows what type, what rating, and when the battery was replaced. There are folks on my forum who DIY'd with any old battery (saving a whopping $120 to $180). Next thing you know the car continued to charge the new battery as if it were 6 y.o., i.e. overcharge. And people complain about how much BMW charges.

Buick $400, BMW $280. something isn't right.....

Thanks OP for the write-up....

Wow.......$400?

 

FYI - Just called Sears Die-hard Gold $149.99....Special Install (under floor) $29.99 Sounds OK to me!

 

$400 is a battery expense that I am dreading. My Enclave's brakes have been pulsating significantly for the last several months, so I anticipate a sizeable brake job bill at my next maintenance appointment. In addition, my Subaru's next 30,000 interval service is almost due, and that is good for $500-$700. Plus, I held off replacing my Subaru's front end bushings at the last 30,000 mile service to postpone the several hundred dollar fees. Finally, that car's brakes have been pulsating somewhat for quite a long time, too, so that is another sizeable expense.

Wow! Cars are money pits!

 

at the 4 yr mark- is fine with me. On my trailblazer- that was 100,000. On my traverse- its going to be about 75,000.
Impala- that was about 50,000

No cold issues here-- but I do get the Summer heat in LA-
you know 100 degrees- and youre stuck in bumber to bumper traffic for an hour at least everyday.(this is the drive home)

Though the Lambdas arent in the Engine bay-- Ive pondered the extension to maybe 5 yrs... due to not being exposed to extreme heat.

Ive mentioned before-- 2007 Impala-- nearing the 4 yr mark... I washed the car- and thought-- hmm time to change the battery... ill do it next week.
During the week-- missus calls- says the car cranks over very slowly and then clicks clicks click
I drive to her location- about 5 miles away. (she had driven out to a client).
I show up- turn off all lights. inside and out. radio off. I dont press on brakes (so brake lights dont come on)...
turn the key-- whirr whirr whirr whirr -- vroooommm

I said- go straight home-- dont turn off car.
I stopped by and bought a new battery. Went home- cranked the car-- whirr whirr- click click click.


As for load testing...
Ill pass up on the random test.... seems that lately theyve passed up on the older experienced folks who have years of auto know how-actual hands on--- and hired younger folks who only know to ask-- what year and model---- and Ive watched them try to load test a battery... eventhough the machine does it all for you-- getting connections in place-- seems to be the hard part....

Its just easier for me to schedule a battery change-- along with an oil change, throttle body cleaning etc- and do it myself.

Ive also told the missus---- if the car wont start... DO NOT let anyone jump the car....
My concern is that theyll screw up and fry the computers.... on the Equinox forum.... member was nice enough to help someone jump start the car..
but the person being rescued did something wrong- and sparks flew---


he said...

The verdict was my Body Control Module was fried, once that was fixed they found that my electronic brake control module is pooched...

and then...

1st bill was just over $1000 and now I am driving without abs brakes as the ebcm is fried...that bill will be between $800 & $1000.

 

:help: The only thing holding me back from replacing my 5+ and 6.5 year old cars is the lower expense of these high upkeep bills compared to those of new car payments on an annual basis. A $400 Enclave battery is less than one monthly car payment on a 2013 Enclave, so I would still be well ahead of the cost of new car payments.

 

$400 is a battery expense that I am dreading. My Enclave's brakes have been pulsating significantly for the last several months, so I anticipate a sizeable brake job bill at my next maintenance appointment. In addition, my Subaru's next 30,000 interval service is almost due, and that is good for $500-$700. Plus, I held off replacing my Subaru's front end bushings at the last 30,000 mile service to postpone the several hundred dollar fees. Finally, that car's brakes have been pulsating somewhat for quite a long time, too, so that is another sizeable expense.

Wow! Cars are money pits!

Bah, $400 is ridiculous hno:, take it to autozone, buy a Duralast Gold battery for $135, have them replace it for you for free. :thumb:

 

The shops in my area are Pep Boys, Sears, and a local chain called STS. Pep Boys is sort of a low end repair and supply shop with limited brand options and ordinary prices. Sears is expensive and has limited options. STS is cheaper, and uses only Exide batteries, which are of unknown quality to me at this time. I will try to do an online price comparison to see what my best option would be when the time comes for a new battery. Also, none of these shops are less than 10 miles from my home.

 

The shops in my area are Pep Boys, Sears, and a local chain called STS. Pep Boys is sort of a low end repair and supply shop with limited brand options and ordinary prices. Sears is expensive and has limited options. STS is cheaper, and uses only Exide batteries, which are of unknown quality to me at this time. I will try to do an online price comparison to see what my best option would be when the time comes for a new battery. Also, none of these shops are less than 10 miles from my home.

Uhm, Autozone? They're all over NJ, at least i'm having a hard timing finding a location on Google Maps in Jersey that doesn't have one within a 10mi drive (most within a couple miles.)

 

I will Google Autozone to find the nearest location. In the 15 years that I've lived here, I've never noticed one.