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Line it up so that it slips onto the shaft. Thats it.
 
My 2011 Buick Enclave has a bad AC heater Blend door actuator so I took it to the dealership to see what the cost would be to fix it. I am a women and I am sure they seen me coming a mile off. They told me the whole dash would have to come out and that it was a 81/2 hr job that would cost approx. 1600 dollars to fix. Thanks to this forum I knew better. I will keep looking for a trustworthy mechanic.
 
My 2011 Buick Enclave has a bad AC heater Blend door actuator so I took it to the dealership to see what the cost would be to fix it. I am a women and I am sure they seen me coming a mile off. They told me the whole dash would have to come out and that it was a 81/2 hr job that would cost approx. 1600 dollars to fix. Thanks to this forum I knew better. I will keep looking for a trustworthy mechanic.
B.s. you can buy the blend door actuator on Amazon for 30.00. Then use YouTube to guide you through the processes of replacing passenger and Drivers sides. I've done it twice.
 
Once again, my compliments on a very useful post. I would change one thing however. Before buying parts and taking things apart, go through the recalibration routine first. It just might save you a lot of time, skinned knuckles, and money. My HVAC started acting up and it sounded exactly like a bad actuator. But as far as I can tell, it was probably caused by disconnecting the battery for a car stereo installation, then after powering up again, unknowingly not letting the HVAC go through its recalibration routine (I had no idea it worked that way). I did the recalibration like this - Remove both the under hood and passenger kick panel fuses. (The tiny fuse on the passenger side is a bugger to remove and replace!) After removal, close all the vehicle doors (with the keys outside of the vehicle). The vehicle needs to "think" it has ended a driving event. Have a cup of coffee or cool one - at least 15 minutes. Replace both fuses (good luck with the passenger side interior fuse!). Start the vehicle and run it for two minutes - don't touch the HVAC controls. During this two minute run time the HVAC will recalibrate - it will come on set to 74 degrees with the rear and passenger modes selected. After the two minutes, shut it down, close the vehicle doors and let it sit again for a couple of minutes. If it was just a matter of needing recalibration, you'll be good to go. If you do in fact have a bad actuator, you can change them out as described in this excellent chain. Good luck!
I was wondering why when I did the recalibrate that the HVAC ‘came on’ set at 74. Now I know to leave it alone & let the system ‘reset’! Thank you
 
This thread is awesome. Many thanks to all who contributed... another almost success story.

I just drilled my hole in the glove compartment panel and was searching for my 3rd screw to no avail... and finally realized it was missing. I replaced the part and the other 2 screws, but a big part of me just wants to leave the 3rd one missing as I assume I will be in there again at some point. Any thoughts on just leaving the 2 screws and not doing the 3rd?

FWIW - mine failed after starter replacement (at a shop) where I assume they failed to disconnect the battery beforehand.
 
Awesome post!!
My 2011 is blowing ONLY cold on the passenger side. Itll blow from every vent (I think) but it does not get warm when you change the temp on control panel. I assume it’s the same problem and part?! Right guys?! Lol
 
Have a question ? When these actuators go bad do they send a code. I am having problems with warm air on passenger side and feels like warm air in the rear. Dealer service tells me they can't duplicate and no codes were found

??? ??? ???
The code will be in the HVAC module and will not send a (check engine) light
 
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