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Hey JayT108,

I have the same problem here in Seattle...cold on passenger side. I tried re-setting the fuse first, which was tough to reach but it didn't fix my Buick 2010 Enclave. To access the fuse you have to remove the glove compartment and once it's out you will see the fuse tucked up under the dash just to the left of where the glove box was. There is a map printed on there so you can identify which is the one for HVAC.

If you can't fix this right away, I temporarily got around the problem by directing air to upper vents which can be closed on the passenger side to stop the cold and allow for heating on the driver side and rear passenger areas.

Today I removed the old actuator and I have to say it was more painful that I expected, even with a 5/8" hole drilled since the distance was farther than my torx driver and also because it was not that straight of a show with some cast aluminium dashboard framing in the way. It will be lots of fun to try starting the screw and I may end up going with just 2 screws if I can't get it. Unfortunately I received the wrong part so I just the right one this time and it should be here tomorrow.

I opened the old actuator and found there are 3 resistors (R1, R2, & R3). The R1 resistor was burnt out so badly the board was also burnt. The R1 resistor sits underneath the worm gear that comes out of the motor so it's not easy to see unless you lift the motor up. Fortunately the blend valve on the Buick moves freely so I suspect the new actuator will work well although I have no idea what caused it to burn out.

Take care and good luck! -Matt
 

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Hi JayT108,

I got the correct part next day thanks to Amazon Prime. Despite dreading the task, putting the new actuator in was quicker than taking it out. I also bought a mini ratcheting screwdriver on Amazon that helped a ton with one of the screws. For all 3 I taped the screws to the bit to guide them into the holes.

Here are some photos that may help...
 

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philziggy said:
Once again, my compliments on a very useful post. I would change one thing however. Before buying parts and taking things apart, go through the recalibration routine first. It just might save you a lot of time, skinned knuckles, and money. My HVAC started acting up and it sounded exactly like a bad actuator. But as far as I can tell, it was probably caused by disconnecting the battery for a car stereo installation, then after powering up again, unknowingly not letting the HVAC go through its recalibration routine (I had no idea it worked that way). I did the recalibration like this - Remove both the under hood and passenger kick panel fuses. (The tiny fuse on the passenger side is a bugger to remove and replace!) After removal, close all the vehicle doors (with the keys outside of the vehicle). The vehicle needs to "think" it has ended a driving event. Have a cup of coffee or cool one - at least 15 minutes. Replace both fuses (good luck with the passenger side interior fuse!). Start the vehicle and run it for two minutes - don't touch the HVAC controls. During this two minute run time the HVAC will recalibrate - it will come on set to 74 degrees with the rear and passenger modes selected. After the two minutes, shut it down, close the vehicle doors and let it sit again for a couple of minutes. If it was just a matter of needing recalibration, you'll be good to go. If you do in fact have a bad actuator, you can change them out as described in this excellent chain. Good luck!

In this post regarding the under hood fuse; do you mean the one listed "RR HVAC" ?

And, does it matter what order you replace the fuses ?

Thank you !
 

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installer said:
In this post regarding the under hood fuse; do you mean the one listed "RR HVAC" ?

And, does it matter what order you replace the fuses ?

Thank you !

ried replacing the under hood fuse first then the under dash with no luck.
When I change defrost/vent/floor I can feel the blend actuator attempting to turn but does not seem to be doing so.
The number on mine is T398001, but I can not find a replacement online.

Googling it comes up with one on Amazon that has an external gear that I do not see on mine.

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-15-73596-Original-Equipment-Conditioning/dp/B0016IDV9M

Any advise ?
 

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Just noticed my passenger side air temperature is blowing quite cooler (when turned to max heat) then my drivers side, and figured I have a bad actuator. My readings tell me that there are 4 actuators in total, 1 under drivers side, 3 under passengers side.

My question is: How do I know which one of the actuators need to be replaced? I know I may need to open/remove the panels under passenger side, and manually feel or listen to which actuator is acting up, but its winter here in T.O, and I park outside. Also, what are the part numbers for the actuators?

Thanks
 

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Uncle Buick said:
Just noticed my passenger side air temperature is blowing quite cooler (when turned to max heat) then my drivers side, and figured I have a bad actuator. My readings tell me that there are 4 actuators in total, 1 under drivers side, 3 under passengers side.

My question is: How do I know which one of the actuators need to be replaced? I know I may need to open/remove the panels under passenger side, and manually feel or listen to which actuator is acting up, but its winter here in T.O, and I park outside. Also, what are the part numbers for the actuators?

Thanks
EDIT: After more research and reading, I think I'm looking for ACDelco 15-73666 GM Temperature Mode Valve Actuator
 

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Uncle Buick said:
Just noticed my passenger side air temperature is blowing quite cooler (when turned to max heat) then my drivers side, and figured I have a bad actuator. My readings tell me that there are 4 actuators in total, 1 under drivers side, 3 under passengers side.

My question is: How do I know which one of the actuators need to be replaced? I know I may need to open/remove the panels under passenger side, and manually feel or listen to which actuator is acting up, but its winter here in T.O, and I park outside. Also, what are the part numbers for the actuators?

Thanks
This post has pictures showing the location of the four front actuators, and what each one controls.

http://www.enclaveforum.net/index.php?topic=23505.0
 

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nathanmac said:
It was recommended to 1) remove the HVAC fuse for minimum 10 seconds 2) install fuse 3) start vehicle and wait 40 seconds for control module to self-calibrate. This fuse is found in the instrument panel fuse block, which is located under the instrument panel on the passenger side of the vehicle (below/behind the glovebox).
A big thing to note is that when you pull the HVAC fuse it will immobilize your vehicle until you reinsert it! Make sure you are prepared for this and have spares on hand before starting the replacement! The fuses are freaking difficult to reinstall because of their size, the angle of approach, and the location of the panel (right over a gap between my carpet and trim in my '09) so when I accidentally dropped the original and a spare (spare was in the engine bay fuse box) they became lost forever. I had to go buy another set of low-profile fuses (really cheap at O'Reilly's) and was finally able to reinsert the fuse. Also you will probably need a short length socket driver or screw driver to get the screws out of the existing actuators. I had to buy another a small one and will be tackling the job again when it's warm. Eff GM's placement of that fuse panel though :angryfire:!
 

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droenclavenewbie said:
A big thing to note is that when you pull the HVAC fuse it will immobilize your vehicle until you reinsert it! Make sure you are prepared for this and have spares on hand before starting the replacement! The fuses are freaking difficult to reinstall because of their size, the angle of approach, and the location of the panel (right over a gap between my carpet and trim in my '09) so when I accidentally dropped the original and a spare (spare was in the engine bay fuse box) they became lost forever. I had to go buy another set of low-profile fuses (really cheap at O'Reilly's) and was finally able to reinsert the fuse. Also you will probably need a short length socket driver or screw driver to get the screws out of the existing actuators. I had to buy another a small one and will be tackling the job again when it's warm. Eff GM's placement of that fuse panel though :angryfire:!
Fixed the driver-side blend door actuator today. I took the old one apart but it seems fine there's no cracked gears or fried circuit board components ??? IDK why it wasn't working. Does anyone have a link to a video that explains how to test the motor with a DIY battery circuit to see if it's working?
 

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Just had my Blend Door Actuator replaced at 51,000 miles on a 2012. Thanks for the post. This job is above my skill and patience level,so I showed the post to my trusted independent mechanic and he charged me 1 hour of labor for the job ($90 in Philly suburbs.)
 

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How did you all manage to re-insert the fuse behind passenger side glove compartment? I've been fighting with this task every weekend for the past 4 weeks without any luck? I've tried to lay down on the floor from different angles, tried various fuse pullers and pliers with no luck.
 

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Recently followed the directions in this thread with great success. My thanks to the OP and others that have contributed to this thread.

Some additional comments I'd like to share for others who may attempt this in the future:

1. To complete this repair you're likely going to be contorted in strange positions on your knees - have a garden kneeling pad / pillow / something handly for comfort.

2. Give yourself lots of time and take your time. One false move and you'll lose pieces behind trim that to retrieve would involve tearing apart your dash. Aside from the screws for the actuators and the fuses that others have mentioned...there is a white gear piece that came off with the actuator - this piece stays on the blend door - don't let it drop down into the abyss behind your dash. I have photos of this part but am unable to share as I rarely use my profile on this board.

3. I went with a 1 inch hole (hidden when glove box is installed) to access the dreaded 3rd screw on the passenger side - gives you a good visual of the screw and more wiggle room to get a driver at it as directly as possible.

4. Learned that when the HVAC fuse is pulled - the liftgate latch is disabled. Note this before putting anything back there you might need while the fuse is pulled.

5. As suggested in this thread, start with the "Easy" Drivers side actuator before moving on to the "challenging" passenger actuator. I found myself cursing enough at the "easy" one and wondering how bad the other one would be. In particular I found removing the electrical connectors is a pain as there is so little room to get at the release tab and very little slack in the wire for moving the actuator around while still connected.
 

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Hello,

Thanks for the great tutorial. That 1/2" hole is going to be a savior when I go to re-install my replacement actuator.

My question is extremely technical, so sorry in advance if I'm way out of place here. On the other hand, many thanks in advance if anyone can help me out.

On my 2012 GMC Acadia, I had the exact same problem as many others where the R1 resistor blew up, leaving the passenger vents blowing full cold air regardless of temperature setting.

So...I order what I thought was an identical replacement and it arrived today. It appears identical in almost every way, except the pin-out. On the old actuator, the pins were labeled (from right to left) 5, 6, space, 8, 9, 10 --and the new one has pins 5, 6, 7, space, 9, 10. The wires are colored (again from right to left): white/black, gray/black, space, yellow, blue, gray.

Bottom line: Does anyone know what the pins are? ...and will I be OK to either:

A. Switch the yellow lead on the cable from location 8 to location 7.
B. Plug it in as is, with neither pin 7 or 8 making contact.



More excrutiating detail as I sought to answer my own question:
So I opened the new one and realized that while the motor and gearing is identical, the circuit board has been completely upgraded to one that includes and IC. On the old board, pin 8 very simply connected through R2 to a post on the position sensor (green-gear), and on the new one pin 7 appears to be connected to the board backplane (and also through a risistor to the same post on the position sensor).

All would seem fine to implement plan A above, except I measured the resistance between the pin and the post on the position sensore and found about a factor of 2.5 in the resitance values. If pin 7 on the new actuator and pin 8 on the old actuator are supposed to be connected to ground, then I think I'd still be OK to move the yellow wire over and call it good, but yellow doesn't appear to convincingly be ground.


Again, extremely technical, but I'd be greatful if anyone has the level of knowledge required here.

Thank you.
 

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Well I got to experience no heat on the passenger side last night. And of course it was cold but the driver side was working just fine. Thank you for this thread because the pictures and directions helped out a lot on removing the actuator. I thought I would post my comments since I just replaced it today. The hardest part I had was what I call the 2nd screw. On the third screw once I drilled a 7/8" hole I had no problem getting that screw out. Of course the 1st screw is easily seen and easily removed. Now the 2nd screw was a nightmare. All I had was a torx bit that mounts to a 1/4" drive. With the 1/4" drive attached I could not get on the 2nd screw as there was not enough room. With the tools I had the only way to get that screw out was to tape the torx bit to a box end wrench. Now I could get on the screw and hold the torx bit with one had while then turning the wrench. This takes quite awhile but it does work. Installed the new one, $47.00 at Auto Zone. I could have gotten it cheaper online but then I would have had to wait. Still cheaper then taking the vehicle to the dealer. Again thanks again for the right up.
 

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Thank you Nathanmac, I love you man! 4 hours and I replaced the fan and resistor while I was down there. Buick charged me $700 to do the last one. All in, I spent $150, including the fan and resistor, at Amazon and $9 at Home Depot for a right angle ratcheting screw driver. Highly recommend a mirror but don't use the one your wife uses every morning to check her hair, that didn't go well for me.

I did it myself and I am a bookkeeper!
 

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Hi all --

I stupidly lost the screws for the driver's side temperature actuator I'm replacing. Any of you know what size they are (torx i'm assuming) and the best way for me to locate replacements?

Thanks in advance!!!
 

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take 1 off the other ones-- head to Home Depot.

They have a section of all sorts of screws and fasteners in bags and in trays.
See if you can find similar.
 

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Can anyone tell me where the Passenger Temperature actuator is located. Getting COLD on the drivers side and only HOT on the passenger side.
 
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