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mmrogge said:
Can anyone tell me where the Passenger Temperature actuator is located. Getting COLD on the drivers side and only HOT on the passenger side.
did you look at the pics at the beginning of the thread?

its clearly labeled.
 

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Very informative. Where did you get the actuators and were there part numbers your used to purchase the correct ones?
 

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MGTSTA said:
Very informative. Where did you get the actuators and were there part numbers your used to purchase the correct ones?
It is informative, even the part numbers and where purchased in the posts.
 

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MGTSTA said:
Very informative. Where did you get the actuators and were there part numbers your used to purchase the correct ones?

find the parts and order them on ebay, Amazon, local parts stores.
 

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This is an outstanding DYI for replacing the blend door actuator on 2008-2013 Enclaves. Problem is Photobucket changed their rules and the photos in the post are not available without a Photobucket membership. This makes them unavailable to most forum users.
It would be a great benefit if the photos were re-posted in a different format that is available to most users.

The original front blend door actuator label is T3983001. Alternate part numbers are GM #20826182, 604140, AC Delco 1573989.
I contacted Dorman Technical Support -Tech Chat. Dorman has two actuators for the Enclave that look identical. Dorman part numbers 604-140 and 604-141. The 604-140 is for the front system and the 604-141 is for the rear aux system. As of 11-14-17, The local Oreilly's Auto Parts lists the 604-140 at $78.39 and the 604-141 is $43.19 . The RockAuto website has AC Delco versions at $45.79 and $30.89. They also have cheaper brands available as low as $20.79
I examined the two Dorman actuators both inside and outside and could not see any observable differences between the two parts. I contacted Dorman again and was told "they have different sweep patterns and the curve of the motor is different."
I asked if they could be interchanged and was told "They are absolutely different, if they are switched, the motor gears will strip out after a cycle"
 

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Pictures not showing up??

I could really use the pictures in this original post. Anyone have a copy, or know where to find them? Dealer wants to charge $500 to switch out the temp door actuator and the only one i can see from the glove box area seems to be working as far as i can tell. Ughhh! Need to dig in a little deeper, but not finding what i need yet. This looked like a great post.

Thanks,
Jim
 

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A big thing to note is that when you pull the HVAC fuse it will immobilize your vehicle until you reinsert it! Make sure you are prepared for this and have spares on hand before starting the replacement! The fuses are freaking difficult to reinstall because of their size, the angle of approach, and the location of the panel (right over a gap between my carpet and trim in my '09) so when I accidentally dropped the original and a spare (spare was in the engine bay fuse box) they became lost forever. I had to go buy another set of low-profile fuses (really cheap at O'Reilly's) and was finally able to reinsert the fuse. Also you will probably need a short length socket driver or screw driver to get the screws out of the existing actuators. I had to buy another a small one and will be tackling the job again when it's warm. Eff GM's placement of that fuse panel though :angryfire:!
I fought with the under dash fuse reinsertion for half an hour while trying to recalibrate the actuator ( which didn't solve the problem). Considering how frustrating this fuse extraction/insertion is would a viable alternative to removing the two HVAC fuses be to just disconnect the battery for a short period of time or could this cause other system malfunctions? I have to replace the "easy" driver's side blend actuator and am dreading the inverted, knuckle busting battle with the under dash fuse!

Not only is my AC out but the driver side blend actuator is stuck on FULL HEAT!:hot:
 

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Driver's side blend actuator removed but can't get a replacement until Saturday (warehouse inventory was wrong). Luckily the blend door defaults to flopping into the cold position (on my vehicle at least) so at least I'm not driving around in a sauna anymore.

The 'check engine' light came on when the actuator was removed. Does anyone know if there would be any issue driving without the actuator installed. I wouldn't think so but I am no mechanic!
 

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The 'check engine' light came on when the actuator was removed.
now that is interesting.
I wonder what the code set would be.
It sure wouldnt be a PXXX, cause these are powertrain codes.
 

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now that is interesting.
I wonder what the code set would be.
It sure wouldnt be a PXXX, cause these are powertrain codes.
I don't have a code reader but tomorrow I'll plug in the old actuator and see if the light goes off.
 

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I don't have a code reader but tomorrow I'll plug in the old actuator and see if the light goes off.
Plugged the broken actuator back in and the engine light went off. Thank god because I just replaced two dead coils last week. This vehicle is starting to suck up money like a Jaguar. Just waiting for the new actuator.
 

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Replaced an actuator approx 1 year ago, and now it seems like another has gone. Could use some help identifying which one is now bad... air is stuck blowing through the defrost vent (long vent located up close to windshield). I cannot get any air from any of the front vents.

The last actuator I changed fixed the 'hot air on drivers side vents, cold air on passenger side vents'. So now I think another one has gone...
 

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Hello Uncle Buick,
If you go to page one of this post/thread the 3rd picture down identifies and shows location of the actuator that controls which vent('s) the air comes out.
 

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Thanks Roadtrip, so its the one marked: Mode actuator (defrost, vent, mix, etc.)

I have a funny feeling that this was the one that I already replaced.... wtf.
 

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Nathanmac, I can't thank you and those who have made videos showing the procedure enough.

I have a 2012 Traverse LTZ and it would only blow out the floor. Luckily that meant it was the easiest actuator to see and following the instructions here and watching some Youtube videos while I waited for Amazon to deliver the new part, I was able to replace it in about an hour.

The most time consuming part was figuring out how to get at the screws. Long story short, I used a small "thumb wheel" ratchet with a T20 bit I magnetized. If you haven't seen a thumb ratchet it's basically a small knurled wheel that accepts hex bits on one side and allows a 1/4 ratchet to be inserted in the other for times when you need some extra leverage. If you have strong hands it makes the job go really quickly. I picked mine up years ago at an auto parts store. They had them at the counter for like 3 bucks. Amazon has them for like $7

Other notes:

One of the sellers on Amazon AA Ignition offers the actuators for $30 with a lifetime warranty. They also have an image showing/confirming the location and function of each actuator in the Enclave/Traverse.

I opened the bad actuator and sure enough it was burnt near the resistor nearest the motor.
 

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Pulled my MODE actuator this afternoon, and sure enough, resistor R1 is burnt and smells like a$$.

Searching around now for a replacement.... got my last one on amazon, but it appears as though the price has gone up!

Don't think I will as damage could have occurred to the circuit board, but has anyone ever replaced JUST the resistor on these things??
 
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